ForrestDump Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Evening everyone, So... I've recently bought an Echo Lite 2011 frame (Thats the 20" one for those who don't know) to replace my old Zoo! Lynx frame. I was surprised to see the new integrated tensioners in place of using the snail cams that I've grown so fond of using. I've been setting up the rear disk and just taking the bike out for the odd hop around recently to make sure all is in working order and have come to notice that the chain seems to slack off more than it used to when using cams. Maybe its just because I haven't used these tensioners before and haven't got them set up properly. Has anyone else had this problem, and what was the solution? I do tighten the chain on the 'loose spot' so it is nice a tight if thats my first problem... Anyone know why snail cams have been scrapped? Thanks, James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 is it just your chain stretching? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Never had an issue with integrated tensioner, are you screwing them all the way in to tighten the chain? Both sides? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted January 20, 2013 Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 Evening everyone, So... I've recently bought an Echo Lite 2011 frame (Thats the 20" one for those who don't know) to replace my old Zoo! Lynx frame. I was surprised to see the new integrated tensioners in place of using the snail cams that I've grown so fond of using. I've been setting up the rear disk and just taking the bike out for the odd hop around recently to make sure all is in working order and have come to notice that the chain seems to slack off more than it used to when using cams. Maybe its just because I haven't used these tensioners before and haven't got them set up properly. Has anyone else had this problem, and what was the solution? I do tighten the chain on the 'loose spot' so it is nice a tight if thats my first problem... Anyone know why snail cams have been scrapped? Thanks, James That might be the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted January 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2013 is it just your chain stretching? Dont think so, when I say I'm just going out for a little bounce around I mean it, it really is just a ride round the block. Never had an issue with integrated tensioner, are you screwing them all the way in to tighten the chain? Both sides? Sure am, I'm not that silly enough to tighten the chain without them. I guessed they were there for a reason. That might be the problem. The thing with this is that if I don't tighten on the loose spots then when the wheel goes around it gets slack anyway and the gap between the frame and chain is tiny. It is a fairly new freewheel so maybe it still needs wearing in. I've always tightened on the loose spots before and had no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 If you do it that way it will be most likely too tight on the tight spot,this could cause chain to stretch more and also damage freewheel etc. I would recommend you do it this way:1,Set the right tension on tight spot(in this position you can make it really tight)2,tighten up the hub bolts 3,tighten up the chain tensioning bolts some more so they won´t come loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Just put some thread lock on the integrated tensioner bolts. Stops them from un-doing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Also, after you've set your wheel and nipped up the wheel bolts, give the grubs another nip too. Just tightens them against the axle and stops them unwinding. I had the same issue and that method stopped it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 If you do it that way it will be most likely too tight on the tight spot,this could cause chain to stretch more and also damage freewheel etc. I would recommend you do it this way:1,Set the right tension on tight spot(in this position you can make it really tight)2,tighten up the hub bolts 3,tighten up the chain tensioning bolts some more so they won´t come loose. That still wont stop having the really slack spot though...? Just put some thread lock on the integrated tensioner bolts. Stops them from un-doing.. Did you use the red or the blue stuff for this? I just assumed that there would be thread lock on it, I guess not. Thanks for all the replies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Did you use the red or the blue stuff for this? Blue if you need to, but usually nipping the grub screw against the axle AFTER you have tightened the axle bolt does the trick though. The standard grub screw are cup point which do dig into the axle a bit, this is another reason for the chain seemingly becoming slack. Keep riding, keep adjusting, and it will settle down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Blue if you need to, but usually nipping the grub screw against the axle AFTER you have tightened the axle bolt does the trick though. The standard grub screw are cup point which do dig into the axle a bit, this is another reason for the chain seemingly becoming slack. Keep riding, keep adjusting, and it will settle down. Thanks Adam. When tightening the chain do you do it on the tighter or slacker part? Just thought I'd ask to clear things up haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cai Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 Did you use the red or the blue stuff for this? I just assumed that there would be thread lock on it, I guess not. As has Adam said, use the blue stuff. When tightening the chain do you do it on the tighter or slacker part? I try to tension my chain on the 'in-between part', this means that the chain is slightly too tight at the tight point but the chain isn't overly loose at the loose point. It works for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny00135 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 (edited) I'm sure it says in the tarty product video guide to tighten on the loose spot O.o EDIT: watched it and yes it does.. Edited January 21, 2013 by Danny00135 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I'm sure it says in the tarty product video guide to tighten on the loose spot O.o EDIT: watched it and yes it does.. Thats why I've always done it in the past... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I go for the slacker part personally - the amount of tension you can create with the tensioner is nowhere near that when you stomp on the pedals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ForrestDump Posted January 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 I go for the slacker part personally - the amount of tension you can create with the tensioner is nowhere near that when you stomp on the pedals. Thats what I've done after watching your video... regarding the tight spot, obviously this becomes very tight. Will the freewheel naturally adjust to this or would it become damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 21, 2013 Report Share Posted January 21, 2013 The amount of tension you can create with the tensioner is nowhere near that when you stomp on the pedals - therefore it doesn't matter IMO, assuming your cranks aren't a complete mess in terms of change in tension (cue dave33 disagreeing with me). 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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