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Rough Price On A Bike


stoozie

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I've been offered to buy a Marin Mount Vision bike. It's a 2006 frame. What sort of price do you think it's worth? Rough spec below:

- Full Deore XT groupset & gears

- Mavic 321 rims, hope hubs & axles

- Fox lockout adjustable travel forks (think they're the float model, not sure only seen a picture of the bike so far)

- Fox float RP3 rear shock

- Hayes trail hydraulic brakes

- Carbon seat post, new seat and pedals

I've been told the bike is in spotless condition, and I'm going to give it a test ride next week, just wanted to know roughly what I should offer him.

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It's pretty original condition. Would have cost around £2500 new the forks have had s recent fox service. What he is asking is about close but I would say try him for. £1000 or get something more mainstream spesh giant trek kona ect you can get the same SPEC for about £500-600

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I've been offered to buy a Marin Mount Vision bike. It's a 2006 frame. What sort of price do you think it's worth? Rough spec below:

- Full Deore XT groupset & gears

- Mavic 321 rims, hope hubs & axles

- Fox lockout adjustable travel forks (think they're the float model, not sure only seen a picture of the bike so far)

- Fox float RP3 rear shock

- Hayes trail hydraulic brakes

- Carbon seat post, new seat and pedals

I've been told the bike is in spotless condition, and I'm going to give it a test ride next week, just wanted to know roughly what I should offer him.

Ignore all the ridiculous wild stab in the darks people have spouted out here. It's not trials so you're not going to get a complete full-susser for around £500.

Anyway to actually be of some use..... I'd actually avoid the thing completely. Nothing wrong with it as such but it is pretty out-dated. The geo will be relatively outdated for the current standard for trail use.

If aesthetics are important to you i'd say that it looks like a dog. If they're not then little things that i'd avoid are things like a 1 1/8" headset. That's going to be an issue for long term compatibility with newer forks. The rear shock is old! It's going to need servicing if it hasn't been done recently. It'll probably need it done even if it has been done recently - it's a damned Fox Shox. (Nothing wrong they just need a little looking after which is something I'd be concerned about on a 6/7 year old bike). The drivetrain is old. It might be XT but it's a good few years old. The wheels are pretty old and 321s are a bit heavy for trail use and they're on what I assume is a pretty heavy frame. The seat tube doesn't seem so big so future compatibility with a dropper is probably out the window. There's pivots everywhere on it, have the bearings been replaced? Are they still able to be sourced? Hayes trail brakes...... well, they ain't so good. A pain in the arse to bleed and not good compared to modern equivalents. Forks seem fine - floats with a QR15 front but don't seem the newest (may need a service). The stem is too long and the front end way too high for a trail bike.

My thoughts are that it is an outdated bike that i'd not want to ride with parts that reflect its age. If you've got £1250 to spend you could get something a lot newer and a lot nicer. For instance my friend just sold his Specialized Stump Jumper Evo http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/bikes/mountain/product/review-specialized-stumpjumper-fsr-evo-comp-12-45262 which was 10 months old for £1600. It was in perfect condition with a good spec and up to date geo.

I think you could find a lot better if you have a look around.

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Ignore all the ridiculous wild stab in the darks people have spouted out here. It's not trials so you're not going to get a complete full-susser for around £500.

Anyway to actually be of some use..... I'd actually avoid the thing completely. Nothing wrong with it as such but it is pretty out-dated.

Eh? Simple free market economics at play here. If you/other people (the market) decide that it's not worth £500, then the price has to decrease until you (or someone) deems it to be worthwhile at that price. Everything is worth something to someone.

Re: that bike. Those forks are posh, pretty new and look to be in decent nick so those alone would probably fetch £250+ on eBay. Everything else looks pretty old and the setup looks shit so as a whole bike I wouldn't pay more than about £500 as Mr Wood says. If I was the owner, I'd buy some cheaper forks for ~£100, then sell the full bike with cheaper forks (still for around £500), and then sell Fox forx separately.

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Ignore all the ridiculous wild stab in the darks people have spouted out here. It's not trials so you're not going to get a complete full-susser for around £500.

Ok - So what price would you pay for that bike? You mentioned my price was a rediculous one, listed all the things wrong with it, but didn't actually say how much it is worth?

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Nothing. That's my point. I wouldn't part with 1 penny for it due to it being so out of date.

It's not that it's valueless as such but it's an odd one. For example the owner wants £1250 for it. You suggested £450... the owner is obviously never going to accept this so I don't see it as a sensible suggestion for this sort of bike. As Tomm said the forks are fine so could sell for £300+ so the owner will probably think you're valuing the rest of the bike at £150 which is madness for a complete full-susser. As I said the owner see's this as a full XT build, full fox bike which should commands a decent price but due to the factors I've mentioned I don't think it holds value in a current market. It's a tough one, the owner would never accept £450 but it's not really worth anything to my mind (in terms of modern day trail riding).

If the buyer has around £1250 to spend you could get something infinitely better (I used an example of just how good a bike you can get for a few hundred more, you could probably get a year older version of the bike I mentioned for under £1250 which is still very up to date).

It's the sort of bike you give to a family member or retire to the garage. If you want to sell bikes on (in the mountain biking world) you need to be doing it every year/two years max. Having a bike for over 6 years then shifting it is just not going to work with all the changing technology. The guy could of sold it in 2008 made a bit of a loss, put it towards another bike which he could of sold in 2010...same set-up and been here 3 bikes later still recouping the same sort of new bike at £2500-£3000 sell for £1500-£1700 year in year out. He's chancing his luck with the sell and I'd just stick clear of it.

I didn't mention specifically your price was ridiculous, just all the huge range of prices suggested that weren't based on anything. By your own admission you said you were out of touch so your price was always going to be a bit of a guess. There's no issue with that - I wasn't suggesting anyone was stupid. I was just conscious everyone was giving wildly different prices and no one was suggesting the obvious that the bike is an old dog. I didn't want the guy thinking he was getting something good when there's much better options out there.

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Which for a trail bike is old. I don't see how you can't understand it when I've clearly explained my thoughts?

It is not a trials bike. An industry that is about 10 years behind the rest of the biking world where QR drop outs and so on are still common place.

I've already explained it thoroughly but to give one example which basically forms basis of my thoughts...... the bike has a 1 1/8" head tube. No trail bikes have this sizing anymore. Nothing does. It's all either tapered 1 1/8" - 1.5", 1.5" or 44mm. So you buy that bike and you forget ever putting new forks on it as there is less and less 1 1/8" trail forks being manufactured. It's thinking ahead about the longevity. It's already old now and even if it was bought and used for a couple of years next to no one is going to want it then so things will only worsen. I'm surrounded by mountain bikers every day who buy and sell bikes and at worst it's usually a 2 year cycle. Not one person I know would contemplate a 6 year old bike for the reasons I've mentioned and the fact it will run in to future compatibility issues.

However what I probably should of said is what I actually first thought when I saw the bike. So to clarify let me explain.....

The bike is f**king shite. It's an absolute shitty old dog and the owner is retarded enough to expect £1250 for it shows he's got no f**king clue about it's value. I didn't want the potential buyer picking up this old bollock of a bike but genuinely I don't care. I'll cut the advice as everyone seems such an advocate of it. Hopefully the seller will find a buyer within this thread.

Edited by Matthew62
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1.1/8th forks will be around for a little while longer at least, you're talking a lot of crap there to be honest. Including getting headset sizes mixed up (44mm is a cup outer diameter size, not a steerer size). Not that you'd ever want to upgrade the forks on that, anyway - the frame is far more limiting than the forks. It's not as bad a bike as you're making out, but yeah I agree it's not worth anything like £1250.

Having said that, I could make it look 100x better in 15 minutes:

Set the bars up properly

Remove all the headset stackers

Probably use a shorter stem

Change the stupid fat seat and putting it at the right angle

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1.1/8th forks will be around for a little while longer at least, you're talking a lot of crap there to be honest. Including getting headset sizes mixed up (44mm is a cup outer diameter size, not a steerer size). Not that you'd ever want to upgrade the forks on that, anyway - the frame is far more limiting than the forks. It's not as bad a bike as you're making out, but yeah I agree it's not worth anything like £1250.

Having said that, I could make it look 100x better in 15 minutes:

Set the bars up properly

Remove all the headset stackers

Probably use a shorter stem

Change the stupid fat seat and putting it at the right angle

It's not crap at all. I'd be impressed if you can find one current full susser frame that's manufactured with a 1 1/8" head tube now. I was talking about head tubes/headset sizes when I mentioned 44mm (anyway I thought it was fairly obvious that when referring to 44mm head tubes that it'd cover both tapered and 1.5" steerers). I wasn't referring to steerer size specifically. Even the spindliest of 29er comes with a tapered head tube this day which is backing up what i'm saying by this thing being a little behind the times.

Look at new forks lines like the Fox 34 - it's only available with a tapered steerer. I've omitted 32's and 36's as they've been around of rages so still offer on some models (for now) a 1 1/8" steerer. Either way this is all besides the point - I just don't see the point in buying something that is already fairly out dated which within the constrains of the bike industry is only going to get worse as standards seem to move on and change fairly rapidly.

Anyway as I said that's the last i'll say on it as I can't see why we're arguing over a bike that the owner wants a lot for and the only point on arguing back on is that it'd be ok for 200-300 quid which is a moot point.

The potential buyer obviously isn't interested as he hasn't returned to this thread so it's done I guess.

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You're wrong - 1.1/8th forks are definitely not on the way out any time in the next few years.

Most frames are tapered headtube, yes, but don't forget that standard is backwards compatible with older forks - there's no real downside to it. Not sure what you're on about with 29ers - they're all pretty new to market so it stands to reason that they'd have the newer standard.

The new 32s and 36s are not old forks as you seem to be suggesting, and there's no doubt they will be making them in 1.1/8th for some time. Fox 34s are super niche at the moment, designed for 29er trail bikes (32s are too flexy, 36s too heavy), and are mainly OEM on new bikes - I.e. those with new headtube standards.

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You're wrong - 1.1/8th forks are definitely not on the way out any time in the next few years.

Most frames are tapered headtube, yes, but don't forget that standard is backwards compatible with older forks - there's no real downside to it. Not sure what you're on about with 29ers - they're all pretty new to market so it stands to reason that they'd have the newer standard.

The new 32s and 36s are not old forks as you seem to be suggesting, and there's no doubt they will be making them in 1.1/8th for some time. Fox 34s are super niche at the moment, designed for 29er trail bikes (32s are too flexy, 36s too heavy), and are mainly OEM on new bikes - I.e. those with new headtube standards.

I'd say that seeming standard build bikes are becoming more and more available with tapered steerers, the 1 1/8 is not going to be around too much longer on anything new and half decent!

The frame i'm soon getting i made sure it was a few things:

Hardtail

Carbon

Tapered of 1.5 through.

You might aswell be saying that the v-brake is still commonly around still.

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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Tomm" data-cid="2474071" data-time="1356116807"><p>

You're wrong - 1.1/8th forks are definitely not on the way out any time in the next few years.<br />

<br />

Most frames are tapered headtube, yes, but don't forget that standard is backwards compatible with older forks - there's no real downside to it. Not sure what you're on about with 29ers - they're all pretty new to market so it stands to reason that they'd have the newer standard.<br />

The new 32s and 36s are not old forks as you seem to be suggesting, and there's no doubt they will be making them in 1.1/8th for some time. Fox 34s are super niche at the moment, designed for 29er trail bikes (32s are too flexy, 36s too heavy), and are mainly OEM on new bikes - I.e. those with new headtube standards.</p></blockquote>

I'm not interested in going back and forth regarding the Marin as its been done to death so ill just focus on correcting you where you're completely wrong.

The 34 isn't a super niche 29er fork at all. It is a new fork in the fox range aimed at enduro and all mountain riding. It's not 29er specific at all so not sure where you got that nonsense from. It's mainly a 160mm fork most comanly offered in 26" with 650b being fairly common too. This is why you'll see the 34 speced on bikes like the Lapierre spicy which is their 160mm all mountain/enduro bike. It's to fit the gap in riding that doesn't actually exist but targets consumers who think they're redder than xc but not a downhiller. It's the same reasons fox shox have moved to CTD over their previous open & pro pedal shocks. There's this mid ground now that companies are tailoring towards.

Also most 29ers are short travel light xc things so the 34 isn't really aimed at that, the sort of 29 they're aimed at is the relatively rare 140mm travel slightly aggressive 29er which will be far and away the smallest seller in the 34 range.

I know plenty of 26" trail riders who are considering 34s as they think 36s are overkill but they want something strong for their 140-160mm bike.

Anyway my point is (and I am correct in this) the 32 and 36 have been around for a long time. Yes you can buy a 2013 fork and it will be new but I would of thought it was quite obvious that I was referring to the models being sound for some time so of course they'll still persue sizings they have done or years. The 34 only came out this year and its only offered in tapered steerer as it is the current standard. If I'm wrong about that then please explain their reasons for doing so?

Anyway I think it's time we put our dicks back in our pants and put the ruler down. The sheer patheticness of this is quite depressing.

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The only difference between 32 / 34 / 36 is the size of the stantions. The other technology is basically all the same - a 2013 Fox 32 is a brand new fork with all of the features of the 34 available in the top-end model. The 34 is a new chassis (introduced specifically to counter the problems of flexiness of the 32 when combined with bigger wheels) but that doesn't mean the 32 is somehow outdated / old.

I'm not saying tapered isn't going to be fairly standard in the future, but 1.1/8th forks are going to be around for several years at least. I never said that it won't be a feature of new frames, but ref my previous point - a tapered frame is backwards-compatible with all the old standards so there's no downside. To take the v-brake argument further, it's like talking about frames with disc brake mounts.

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