Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) Got a massive problem with a mod I've just built up. I tighten the wheels in the rear dropouts, the brake is lined up fine, the chain is tight, the wheel won't budge if you try and move it by hand... Then when you do a pedal kick, or pedal around on it, the wheel moves so much that it stops moving from touching the pad, and the chain touches the chainstays... Any ideas what it might be guys? The bolts ARE tightened as hard as they can, any tighter and they'll strip. And it does have snailcams too. Edited December 7, 2012 by JMCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i like cunning stunts Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Rear hub axle? Mind you you would be able to move it side by side by hand, are your spokes tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Rear hub axle? Mind you you would be able to move it side by side by hand, are your spokes tight? Brand new wheelbuild. Axle is fine.. Bolts don't come loose at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoNnY__Mc Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Make sure that the bolts are gripping the frame when tightened, I had to put spacers on the axle so that the they wheel actually tightened and didn't 'bottom out' when the bolts were tightened. Also are you using notched or smooth snail cams? I prefer notched as they are easier to set up and there is less chance of the wheel sliding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials hoe Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 tensioner bolt tight/adjusted correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials owns Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 My mate had this, We just wacked chain tugs on instead of his cams, Worked a treat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Make sure that the bolts are gripping the frame when tightened, I had to put spacers on the axle so that the they wheel actually tightened and didn't 'bottom out' when the bolts were tightened. Also are you using notched or smooth snail cams? I prefer notched as they are easier to set up and there is less chance of the wheel sliding. Hmm, I have spacers on the axle too. They have smooth cams, but still that shouldn't be an issue. tensioner bolt tight/adjusted correctly? http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/snail_cams/echo_tr_snail_cams_pair/c114p10711.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 My mate had this, We just wacked chain tugs on instead of his cams, Worked a treat. Not ideal, might have to haha. Will be the 100% final solution I do, I just don't understand how it's doing this with fully tightened bolts?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) My echo team used to do this, its when you tightnen the bolt up and the motion makes the axle move backwards. It only has to move a few mm, and although your chain will still be tight, the kick motion pulls the wheel forward causing brake rub. Make sure the inside of your frame is clean and burr free, and the washers/cams/spacers are clean. Then tighten each side up 1/8 of a turn at a time. Worked for me Edited December 7, 2012 by bing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradJohnson Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) When i got my echo 24" it did it. I used some chain tugs and fixed it. Edited December 7, 2012 by BradJohnson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) Check your snail cams havent worn/indented to the shape of the small bit of the axle that spaces the snail from the hub. It could be rubbing on the bearing case or hub. Might be a long shot but have a check Edited December 7, 2012 by D Rock 45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Nah they're new cams.... Hmm good point Bing I might have to make sure there's no spots in the frame that can cause the bolts to rest on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kane666r Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 get some desent notced snail cams as smooth ones are just useless mymate had a smooth pair for ever adjusting gotsome notched ones never had another problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FamilyBiker Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 might sound ridiculous but: cracked chainstay? saw this once with the same symptoms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 What hub is it? I had the same problem with my stock because using an echo tr hub, swapped the smooth washers and alu bolts for some steel ones and toothed washers and that solved it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 (edited) If you have some other snail cams just to put on for a test, do it. EDIT: After you have tensioned the snail cams, and are going to tension the hub bolts, are you sure that the snail cams STILL hit the bolt? My mate tensioned the snail cams, and then took up his allen key to tension the bolts, and his smooth snail cams just slipped off the bolt and spinned backwards leaving a gap between the snail cam and the bolt, but he tensioned it all up and pretty much the same thing happend to him, wheel comes out of alignment etc. Sorry really hard to explain.. Edited December 7, 2012 by williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashleys sugden Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 my friends 26" did this last week, he bought a new wheel and chain, and the back sprocket and freewheel wasnt in line, this cause the wheel to move when gapping and hopping etc and did it very quickly, he put a spacer behind his rear sprocket and its all good now, just check to make sure the chain is inline with everything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_Trials Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Try spaces on the outside of the frame, that was the problem with my old onza before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 What hub is it? I had the same problem with my stock because using an echo tr hub, swapped the smooth washers and alu bolts for some steel ones and toothed washers and that solved it. It's an echo tr. You sure steel toothed washers will solve it? It has smooth washers on the inside and the outside of the frame at the moment. might sound ridiculous but: cracked chainstay? saw this once with the same symptoms Possible, but I really doubt it... If that's the case then new frame time... Anyone got a cheap mod frame for sale? PM me it and I might take it off your hands if this is too much hassle. If you have some other snail cams just to put on for a test, do it. EDIT: After you have tensioned the snail cams, and are going to tension the hub bolts, are you sure that the snail cams STILL hit the bolt? My mate tensioned the snail cams, and then took up his allen key to tension the bolts, and his smooth snail cams just slipped off the bolt and spinned backwards leaving a gap between the snail cam and the bolt, but he tensioned it all up and pretty much the same thing happend to him, wheel comes out of alignment etc. Sorry really hard to explain.. Nah the wheels seem to push the snail cam back round I think, but they are touching before when it's tight and after a short pedal kick its loose. Try spaces on the outside of the frame, that was the problem with my old onza before. There are spacers on the outside, thanks for the suggestion though. get some desent notced snail cams as smooth ones are just useless mymate had a smooth pair for ever adjusting gotsome notched ones never had another problem No point buying new ones, I'll try filing some notches into them though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Yup positive, I actually put a groove in a set of neon cams from the wheel slipping forward. Emailed tarty and they sent me some toothed washers and bolts and it solved it straight away. Was these ones http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/hub_spares/onza_axle_bolt_and_washers_kit/c22p11735.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Oh wow, that's bad. What bolts were you using before? Those bolts and washers seem quite expensive for £6 or am I missing something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 If you have some other snail cams just to put on for a test, do it. EDIT: After you have tensioned the snail cams, and are going to tension the hub bolts, are you sure that the snail cams STILL hit the bolt? My mate tensioned the snail cams, and then took up his allen key to tension the bolts, and his smooth snail cams just slipped off the bolt and spinned backwards leaving a gap between the snail cam and the bolt, but he tensioned it all up and pretty much the same thing happend to him, wheel comes out of alignment etc. Sorry really hard to explain.. Thats what i was getting at earlier dude, you just explained it in a different way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Thats what i was getting at earlier dude, you just explained it in a different way Oh shit sorry man, didn't understand it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted December 7, 2012 Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Was just using the standard ones on the TR hub, was worth it as it meant I could ride with no worries! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted December 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2012 Was just using the standard ones on the TR hub, was worth it as it meant I could ride with no worries! Aha okay, you said they sent you some. In a way it looks like you're suggesting they sent them for free? If I don't manage to get it sorted by Monday I might order them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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