Gaz96 Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 Right now running 2x9, would like to run 1x9 but would this require a chain device? Was about to take front mech off and just remove the granny ring leaving outer ring and bash on my SLX crankset but then realised might no be so simple, is it so simple no? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 I didnt find it necessary when I did it on my old bike when I ran a short cage mech, long cage I had issues with the chain dropping when backpedalling. Best thing to do is try it, see if it drops, if it does then buy a guide, simple Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted September 26, 2012 Report Share Posted September 26, 2012 There is loads of talk on the mountain bike forums about this - basically you won't get away with no device unless you're only riding on smooth stuff. However a top-only device is probably fine. I'm riding 1x10 and so far my top-only device (e13 xcx) is fine. The other thing that supposedly helps is using a non-ramped chainring. I.e. get a specific single-ring chainring, not just your old middle ring. http://www.chainreac...x?ModelID=87855 or http://superstar.tib...products_id=362 or just keep your front mech. However this probably isn't quite the right shape to work in a single position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 2X9 might be a bit of a struggle on the ups depending on where you live. 2x10 with a large sprocket on the cassette might be a smarter move. You'll need a device to hold the chain on. As has been said there are plenty of top only devices which work well. Others that are popular are ones like the Straitline Silent Guide which is very light and has no moving parts. I'm still running 2x9 because I have some big ol' climbs where I live and i'm too much of a wimp to do them with a big ring only and I have a lovely 9 speed Saint mech I don't want to have no use for. Also having the two rings on the front doesn't actually cause me any issues. Whilst 1x9/1x10 looks great what are your actual reasons for wanting to move to it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 As an outsider, it always seemed pretty weird to me that the MTBers who come to us to get trials builds are all hyper-anal about getting a perfect chain-line, yet seem to be happy to run setups like a 2x10 or 1x10 on their MTBs. Aren't you going to end up giving your chain grief on a setup like that because your chain-line is always going to be wrong? I know when I've ridden MTBs which had a traditional 27-speed setup that if you, for example, happened to use the smallest gear at each end the chain would be having to cross over your whole drive-train and it wasn't great for it, so isn't that a scenario you're going to run into more with a 1x10 setup? Or are the single rings at the front more centrally based to avoid that from being much of an issue? Sorry for the savage thread-jack, it had been something that had been on my mind for a while and this seemed like an opportunity to ask Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm surprised MTBs would be super anal about chain line. But yeah you're right your chain is pretty much always going at some sort of diagonal angle wearing it and such. With 2x9/2x10 setups its less of an issue as like you said you shouldn't run say the outer ring (if on a 27 speed set-up) with the largest sprocket in the cassette so for me if i'm going up in my second ring (36t) and say 2nd or 3rd on the back if i'm struggling i'll drop down to my granny rather than going to the largest sprocket on the back. That way i'll have a much straighter chain line. With a 2x10 setup you are in effect using the inner and middle position so that can alleviate some of the side to side issue as you're not going to the outer chainring like a 3 ring setup, and often only using a selection of about 6 gears per chainring so the angle is never too severe. As 1x10 is getting ever more popular then their is an issue with the angle of the chain as the front chainring takes the middle/central position and you're very often using the largest sprocket at the back (often a 34t) to make it up the hills. I think the thing is though that most of the time when trail riding you're in that central ring (whether on a 2x10 or 1x10 setup) and around the 4th gear at the back so a lot of the time your chain is fairly straight. But with the sort of shit that gets stuck in drivetrains and the endless gear changes you're wearing out cassettes and chains quite a bit so should be replacing them fairly regularly anyway. I think when MTBs are anal about chain line they just want to make sure than when in that middle position at the front the chain is straight when on the 4th or 5th sprocket at the back - the giving your chain grief part is just part and parcel. With 1x11 now just about hitting the shelves it'll be interesting to see how things hold up. I think the reason why 1x10 is so popular (and i'd like to switch to it at some point) is that if you've got it in the easiest gear for going up, when the trail levels out or drops you can just swipe through a few cogs smoothly at the back and be good to go as opposed to having to shift a few at the back whilst hoiking the chain up from the granny ring to the bigger one, as it ruins your flow and can sometimes be a bit scruffy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I'm surprised MTBs would be super anal about chain line. Like you wouldn't believe, haha. Thanks for the info though, it makes sense 1 x 11 sounds pretty nuts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew62 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Like you wouldn't believe, haha. Thanks for the info though, it makes sense 1 x 11 sounds pretty nuts... Seems stupid considering how simple it is to get a perfect chain line on a trials bike (saying this having never personally encountered any form of screw-on type product in my life). I don't think the 1x11 will take off anytime soon as you have to purchase the entire drivetrain as it's all made to work with each other and at costing well over £1000 even some of the most flamboyant MTBers I imagine will back out. I admire companies trying to improve things but completely shut down systems, introducing new standards etc just gets a bit tiresome. I was always a bit sceptical of Hopes attempt at making a cassette which housed the free hub with the smallest sprocket being a 9t as it sounded expensive. I liked the idea of a 9t-34t cassette but apparently the 9t sprockets wore out fairly quickly so you were left with a massively expensive cassette with free hub inside with 9 working sprockets and a disc of metal that was once a 9t. I think in MTBing the gearbox has got to be a not too distant realisation. I know i'd rather that then the current trend for electronic suspension with 1000 cables running from your bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I think in MTBing the gearbox has got to be a not too distant realisation. I know i'd rather that then the current trend for electronic suspension with 1000 cables running from your bars. Let's not forget about being able to change tyre pressures on the fly as well... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I've had double + bash on my mtb for years. Basically I never really used the little ring that much and though I'd give 1x10 a try. The chainline thing doesn't really seem to be an issue, but I think I will struggle on some of the steeper hills without a granny ring. It saves a bit of weight and maybe looks a bit better, but I don't think there's any great performance increase. My main reason was to try and make myself a bit fitter and force myself to go faster on the ups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz96 Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 Reason for changing: currently my hardtail is a DJ frame set up for riding the trails aswell, but after building my DH bike with just 2 brakes and rear gears, it makes me want to make my cockpit a bit less buy on my hardtail as I have 2 brakes 2 gears remote lockout for forks and a dropper seat post, wanting to simplify things up a bit get rid of the lockout and dropper and the front mech as its never used, has no use being on, and getting a bit more into dirt jumps so a bit more light weight simplicity is ideal. Think a top only guide will be my way forward, anyone know any cheapish ones? Or they only get as cheap as the one in the links Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 I tried 1x9 without a guide for a few weeks before i got my guide and it wasn't too bad, had a few situations when it jumped off but it stuck it out quite well. Much more confidence in it now thou that I do have a guide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted October 3, 2012 Report Share Posted October 3, 2012 Run a 22 x 36 front double its for the best. U know it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rebelistic Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 I think the reason why 1x10 is so popular (and i'd like to switch to it at some point) is that if you've got it in the easiest gear for going up, when the trail levels out or drops you can just swipe through a few cogs smoothly at the back and be good to go as opposed to having to shift a few at the back whilst hoiking the chain up from the granny ring to the bigger one, as it ruins your flow and can sometimes be a bit scruffy. It's odd. I like running 2 chainrings upfront on my freeride/AM bike so I can quickly change a big ratio (ie drop from 34 to 22 up front) for when I hit a climb or a downhill rather than have to step through several gears on the rear. Funny going from a trials bike to a bike with two or more cahinrings is it's hard to get used to the chain flapping around so much (doesn't fall off just flaps), seems like a more elegent solution would be possible. That dual pressure tire switch idea looks interesting although too clumbersome to really be of practical use. I've often wondered if it would be possible to get the best characteristics of soft and hard tires (without having to adjust anything). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaun H Posted October 8, 2012 Report Share Posted October 8, 2012 I'll be running 1x10 with a guide for racing enduro next year but the rest of the time I'll be on 2x10. Having the smaller ring is just nice on casual rides and makes it more enjoyable overall. But I want the chain security for racing as a dropped chain or mishift is a lot of time lost in a stage so I'm willing to slog it up the hills in the transitions with a single ring up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted October 10, 2012 Report Share Posted October 10, 2012 ive been pissing about with my gears recently, had a 1*9 setup 36tooth on the front, 32 biggest cog on the rear. some of the climbs near me are quite steep and i was struggling to keep up with everyone else on 2*10, bought myself a 32 on the front so i have a 1:1 ratio for the ups, and that seems to have done the trick, faster than the others now too due to the nature of having a slightly harsher ratio than them i have to go abit quicker to be able to pedal. its nice. on the chain device topic, i am currently using the plasma chaindevice from superstar components, had it a good 5 months, used it for a fair few long dh runs, no problems at all. the only "issue" ive found is that when im on either the highest or lowest on the rear i get a very slight rub on the topside of the device. but that wore away very quickly and now its quiet again. i defo recommend getting a device. your confidence will rocket on the faster downhill sections Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz96 Posted October 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2012 So I'm currently running this: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=28019 Can the inner ring and bash just be removed to run the outer ring as a single ring and then something like one of these would be ideal yes? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=40904 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=87855 Sorry for noob questions just need to be sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 Yes. Although you may need some more chainring bolts to hold the middle ring on the cranks - the ones you've got will probably be too long if you're not running a bash. Some people say that the chain stays on better if it's a 'proper' single ring design. I.e. it doesn't have shifting ramps etc to encourage the chain to fall off. I don't know how much of an issue this is, but I bought a new (single speed) chainring for my setup. (It looks nicer, too). I've got the e13 XCX device, no complaints so far - it looks well made and I've not lost a chain. The only thing I would say is that you can't run a bashring with it. If you think you might need a bash then it might be worth looking at devices that have a 'taco' plate built in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash-Kennard Posted October 20, 2012 Report Share Posted October 20, 2012 i agree, should be fine. if not, make the device slightly tighter till the chain beds in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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