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Snapped Rotor Bolt


trialsiain

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You'll be fine running it with one less bolt, but since the bolt now has no head it shouldn't really be under any tension so it'll be pretty easy to remove what's left.

Whip off the other 5 bolts and the rotor will slide off the stub that's left, then use a pair of pliers to rotate the remaining bolt out of the hub (you may even be able to do this by hand) (Y)

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  • 1 year later...

I didn't think there was a bit of bolt left sticking out, otherwise the hacksaw method is a well known trick. I wasn't aware of screw removal drill bits (basically a reversed thread drill bit). I highly recommend getting a torque wrench though: it's just too easy to over-tighten bolts.

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I didn't think there was a bit of bolt left sticking out, otherwise the hacksaw method is a well known trick. I wasn't aware of screw removal drill bits (basically a reversed thread drill bit). I highly recommend getting a torque wrench though: it's just too easy to over-tighten bolts.

agreed, but steel and ally don't mix well over time, some anti-seize as well works a treat
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agreed, but steel and ally don't mix well over time, some anti-seize as well works a treat

That raises an interesting point. Last week my mate fitted a new rear rotor and bolts, and forgot to apply Loctite to the threads. After an hour's riding all six rotor bolts had come loose and the rotor was free to clank back and forth. Anti-seize compounds usually conntain grease or oil amongst other things, wouldn't that make it easier for the bolts to become loose?

Would it be a good idea to use anti-sieze compound and locking washers (e.g. a split washer) on rotor bolts? It somehow feels wrong, because rotors need to be as tightly locked in as possible.

Edit: Some useful info here: http://forums.mtbr.com/brake-time/rotor-bolts-grease-loctite-80173.html

Different people have different opinions, and my opinion is that for rotor bolts a small amount of blue Loctite in combination with a torque wrench would works good.

Edited by Scoox
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