D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) So i desided to change my chain today and it all went ok untill i had to put mywheel back on. I have lined the wheel spot on with the center of the frame but the tensioners are not even. Right side has 3mm sticking out and the left has 1mm sticking out, also the cylinders are uneven its the only way i can get both pads to move at the same time. The right side cylinder is in the middle of the clamp, left side is as far out as it will let me set it, both brake pads have worn evenly. Onza limey drop outs. I cant think what the problem is. Any had this problem before ? Edited August 21, 2012 by D Rock 45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials hoe Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 is the wheel wonky horizontaly or verticaly? mine was off verticaly when i built it up, loosened everything and tightened it up again it was right. was it all equal and strieght when you took it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) horizontaly. Ive check my wheel and its true and the drop outs are ok. Ive just took the wheel off again took the tyre off and line the wheel back up again with a ruler also with out the tyre on. and it went on strate chain tention right both tensioners are equal pads are bitting equal. Edit: could it be my tyre, i change them to the othere day from maxxis to an echo. didnt have the problem when the maxxis tyre was on. Edited August 21, 2012 by D Rock 45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClarkeHutchison Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Loosen both tensioners completly then tighten the right and left tensioners evenly until your chain is tight. Then concentrate on getting your wheel perfectly straight by tightening either the right or left tensioner slowly. If this dosen't work i usually throw my bike at the wall in frustration :bow: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 (edited) Loosen both tensioners completly then tighten the right and left tensioners evenly until your chain is tight. Then concentrate on getting your wheel perfectly straight by tightening either the right or left tensioner slowly. If this dosen't work i usually throw my bike at the wall in frustration :bow: Haha yeah i did when i didnt have the tyre on, it lined up strate. Think there is something wrong with the tyre making me miss line the wheel up causing everything else to look out of place.n I normaly look down the center of the tread pattern and the edges of the tyre to line the wheel up, every think is spot on when i do that. Didnt have that problem with my maxxi everything was ok to line up Edited August 21, 2012 by D Rock 45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Ok so it is the tyre, ive fitted the tyre to the rim properly making sure all the beading is in the rim evenly, wound the tensioners right out then droped the wheel to the bottom. The wheel sits evenly at the bottom but the tyre is more on the right of the rim some how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sponge Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 New tyres are no problem but with second hand or any used tyres they can be a major reason for what appears to be 'wobble' in the wheel spinning. When the tyre is removed look out for things like ripped bead or a sharp point of bead sticking out that make the sidewalls protrude outwards. I've had some second hand tyres that had a warped like hell shape when standing alone- either from aggressive screwdriver removal or being folded up too much during shipping. Comfortable plastic tyre levers are an amazing investment. Screwdrivers just damage the tyre and rim and in my experience they're actually more effort to get tyres off. During wheel alignment in horizontal dropouts, one of the main mistakes I made was trying to align the rear wheel by using the tyre space between the seatstays/chainstays as a guide. Sooner rather than later I'd find the wheel for some reason has slipped. Then Chai told me a better way was to align it by using the axle ends in the dropouts as guides. Basically it was a transition from using the tyre itself as a centring guide to using the axle/hub as the centring guide. That way the central point of the wheel is even and lets everything bolt together evenly and flushly. With the hub itself completely centred in the dropouts and at even tensions on both sides you can judge whether or not rim needs aligning with the frame- as frames aren't 100% straight. But that's pretty straightforward with just a spoke key Using the tyre/rim as the first thing to align within the frame usually ended up in constant wheel shifting for me- since the hub would usually be at an angle with the dropouts- the fit just wasn't as straight and flush even if the tyre/rim seemed dead straight with the seatstays/chainstays. Focus on even and straight hub alignment in the dropouts first, and then true the rim as necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Yeah that's the mistake ive made using the tyre as the guide line but ive done it before and never had a problem, It must just be this tyre am using. As for using the hub and axle bolts as the centering points that works great thanks, all even and true. The tyre is still sitting to one side though, its not the rim because my brake pad isnt rubbing on the one side. Both pads have worn evenly enought to both be set up with the cylinders clamped in the middle and bitting at the same time and the same distance from the rim. Just glad the weather has been bad for once, i must of set a record for taking a wheel on and off about 15 times in one day XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sponge Posted August 21, 2012 Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 Once you've established that the hub/axle is dead even in the dropouts on both sides, just double check the rim itself is centred either with a ruler or tape measure against the seatstays. If you're 100% sure that it's all straight and can only come to the conclusion that it's the tyre giving you grief then you could just get a new tyre. At least for me I'd have more peace of mind knowing the hub/rim is all nice and even and it's just an uncooperative tyre throwing things off centre. If it bothers you, just get a new tyre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D Rock 45 Posted August 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2012 yeah all checked with a ruler, not to fussed if the tyre is abit out of line as long as the hub and chain stay are all centerd and working smooth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.