Carlperkins Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Does anyone know if theres anything stronger than nitromors for stripping paint? Im using it on an entire vw camper. so will need LOADS!! i did the engine bay door earlier, with nitromors. and it took ages. it basically just "softened" the paint, rather than blistering it. i ended up scraping all the paint off. anyone had any experience with anything stronger? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 Blasting for something that big, surely? Probably won't cost any more than a shitload of stripper, and a whole heap quicker/easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trials hoe Posted August 6, 2012 Report Share Posted August 6, 2012 acid bath would be better than media blasting, be a lot cleaner too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlperkins Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 nah blasting is like £500 and they only do the seams and fiddly parts of the car. blasting big flat panels causes heat and distorts the panels. you can get home blast kits for £100 + the many many bags of grit you will need. works out about £400. havent looked into acid bathing. any idea on a price for a whole car? and surely only the body and chassis could be done? the whole car would have to be entirely stripped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 if you can get hold of some old clear nitromors, instead of the new green stuff, it's miles stronger. works so much better, I've got a right scar on my elbow from a splash back from it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Am I the only one thinking that I'd probably just key the surface and spray over it? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Yeah, even if you gave it to a body shop to prep they wouldn't strip it completely; unless they knew the paint underneath would react with the new stuff. Get a sanding disc out on it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlperkins Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 nah mate, im restoring it. Its not got a solid base to go on. There's hidden rust and body filler all over the place, and dents everywhere. my plan is strip it to bare metal, cut out rusty areas and replace with solid sheet metal welded in, smooth all the joins. pull all the dents, then maybe use some body filler if i have to before i get it sprayed. i have a twisted wire brush on the end of my angle grinder which is doing an ok job (fookin better for £25!) and i have some paint removing angle grinder discs on the way. took me an hour and a half to do half of the roof, its basically just apply, scrape, apply, scrape, wire brush on grinder, sand with 100 grit block. but nitromors is shit so just need summit stronger :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRIAL-bike-MATT Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 http://www.alloypaints.com/paint-stripper-5-ltrs-70-p.asp you want this, i havent personally used it but it has the same chemicals in it that made the old nitromors so good, also thats why its in a plastic tub aparently it could start to eat through the metal tins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlperkins Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 http://www.alloypain...5-ltrs-70-p.asp you want this, i havent personally used it but it has the same chemicals in it that made the old nitromors so good, also thats why its in a plastic tub aparently it could start to eat through the metal tins thank you sir! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan_Trials Posted August 8, 2012 Report Share Posted August 8, 2012 Water seems to activate it a bit better, so you apply some, wait a while, rinse off, repeat. Not always practical though as it makes a massive mess. Media blasting (usually) and chemical dips require a bare shell, yes. The big wheel on the grinder is good, but watch for snagging - it will eat through a panel! Also get a cup brush (the hard type), they seem to be better for the big flat panels. Also, you can cause heat on these panels too, so watch for that! It's a lot of work, and about 1/4 of the way in you will wonder why you though it was a good idea and then towards the end you will wonder if you will ever find any thing solid! Stick at it, if it gets too much have a break, but never give up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.