JT! Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 This is a picture of my gate. Red are 2x4's, yellow is 2x2's. Green are the hinges, orange arrow is the sagging. The gate sags by a couple on inches. Basic knowledge of physics leads me to believe gravity might be the culprit. Basic knowledge of geometry tells me that the arse who built this thing only used wood vertically and horizontally, and nothing diagonally, making it like an accordion. I was thinking about cutting up a 2x4 and putting it across diagonally. Would this actually help the sagging? If it would, should I put it A to D or B to C? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I think it would help and I would put it from A to D, it would put the diagonal piece in tension rather than compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezgonzo Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 B to C, however it's all dependent on the size of gate, one diagonal may not be suffecient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradJohnson Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Put the diagonal from C to B, push the gate up until is square and fire som screws in and it should hold it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 As above, B to C will do it and as long as it's packed well the width of the gate shouldn't matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 What sort of size is the gate? As Ali mentioned, one way puts the new support in tension and the other compression. I don't really know the tensile/compressive properties of generic wood, but I'm guessing there wouldn't be much real-world difference either way. Do it with carbon fibre for additional points. Do it with carbon vinyled wood for pure win. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Basically support it like this: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Could you not put one either side one A to D and the other C to B? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 Not really, shouldn't need to anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I would go A-D as that would be under tension, but if you really want to win doing A-D & B-C with a lap joint would do the job nicely! Wood would probably suffice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 I think it would help and I would put it from A to D, it would put the diagonal piece in tension rather than compression. What sort of size is the gate? As Ali mentioned, one way puts the new support in tension and the other compression. I don't really know the tensile/compressive properties of generic wood, but I'm guessing there wouldn't be much real-world difference either way. Do it with carbon fibre for additional points. Do it with carbon vinyled wood for pure win. So do I want the support in tension or compression? B to C seems most popular and what I instinctually thought would be best, and I was going to push the gate up opposite of the way it was sagging, and then past the level point too before I screw it in, then hopefully the little sag in then has would bring it down to a level point. B to C, however it's all dependent on the size of gate, one diagonal may not be suffecient. It may not, but this gate is a little f**ked anyone so as long as it helps a little it'll be fine. Could you not put one either side one A to D and the other C to B? I could, but that would mean having to cut a slot down the middle of one of them and twice as much stuff to do. ...with a lap joint would do the job nicely!e. I don't have the skills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted June 25, 2012 Report Share Posted June 25, 2012 B to C, I used to make windows and doors for a living for the best part of 5 years. If you go the other way your effectively pushing the far corner into the ground whereas packing it B to C would make the top corner C push down onto the bottom corner B to hold itself up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezgonzo Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 (edited) as above, in this instance tensile bracing would not be the best option due to both the sides being equal in length, however tensile bracing could be used if the hinged beam was say 50% higher, that way you could fix the diaganol above point A and down to point C, thus eliminating the pivot points. Edited June 26, 2012 by ezgonzo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomm Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Put some extra screws in first. It can only sag if each wood:wood interface is allowed to pivot. If you put extra screws in (E.g. at the top / bottom of each slat, make sure there are at least 2 screws) then it can't twist. YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I think that was the logic of whoever put it up in the first place. Problem is most of the screws have worked loose because of the constant sagging and lifting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Problem is most of the screws have worked loose because of the constant sagging and lifting. Then tighten them, dear boy. In other potential win solutions, attach a length of wire or rope to corner C and, by means of an over complicated series of weights and pulleys, counter balance the sag. If done right this could also probably be used to create a self-close feature. Extra win points for using titanium fixings. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 I have. I also took off the wire that was helping only a little. The wire kept stretching though and constantly needed tightening. Will put a 2x4 up asap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 The wire kept stretching though and constantly needed tightening. Must've been the wrong type of wire then. If you used something like bike gear or brake cable you'd probably be laughing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 26, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Yeah if the 2x4 doesn't do the trick I'll put something back up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SunnyBoy Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Gates should be braced from the lower hinge to the upper beam to counter sagging. i.e B to C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shamus Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Support in tension is usual so A to D diagonal brace. Can also be done B to C which is usually how farm gates are done. if you can get the new brace inside the outer frame it will be in compression which is where timber is best (compression along grain) and not solely on the screw/connection pieces Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JT! Posted June 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 I'm ignoring everyone's advice and I'm attaching a wheel at point D. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted June 27, 2012 Report Share Posted June 27, 2012 So long as it's running on a Hope hub it's all good. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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