williams Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) Hi my Magura hs33 have just had been to much hassle with, I've Stripped 2 threads, Every pad set i use get un-squarely weared even though I use the Echo TR washerless clamps (I've had 5 pad sets under 4 months) Swollen piston, sticky piston you name it! This is just ridicolous. Every 10-60 mins I have to move the wheel using the snail cams, or move the cylinders. This have a tad to do with my shitty Neon 'smooth' snail cams, (New RockMan CNC 'nothced' snail cams are on the way) But this doesn't explain why my magura cylinders move, no mather how hard I tension the clamp bolts. This is to me F*cking ridicolous. So im thinking of throwing my hs33 to the garbage can where it for the moment belongs, and buy V-brakes instead. But are they any good? Can they compare to magura like in terms of power? Thanks. Edited June 7, 2012 by williams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manuel Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Vees are better. End. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Reynolds Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) Every 10-60 mins I have to move the wheel using the snail cams, or move the cylinders. This have a tad to do with my shitty Neon 'smooth' snail cams, (New RockMan CNC 'nothced' snail cams are on the way) But this doesn't explain why my magura cylinders move, no mather how hard I tension the clamp bolts. This is to me F*cking ridicolous. The mounts being ally can 'oval' out, meaning that no-matter how hard you clamp them down, they dont grip the cylinder. You can get around this by filing down the mounts, or wrapping tape around the cylinder Edit : just seen ur using the washerless echo mounts, these are common for doing this Edited June 7, 2012 by Martin Reynolds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weebryan Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 (edited) Have hs33 with 6 years of antifreeze in them and only bled twice so far and no sticky pistons, cutstom made alu tpa and 4 finger lever. Also have tnn clamps and booster so easy to set up, can take them off and back on in exact place and work just the same As for not staying in place could be bad threads in frame, longer bolts to catch good threads or helicoil or timesert holes out very easy to do Before i got the echo frame with grub screw tensioner i used echo tr snail cams with micro notches and made from steel worked for me and i mashed loads of snail cams, also filed a bit of axel off to ensure axle bolts gripped frame and not on axle As for v only used them when they first came out back in early 90s swapped them for cantis on my full sus then disk came out never looked back Edit you still got fix your bolt holes for v adaptor to bolt in and stay tight Edited June 7, 2012 by weebryan 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Are you sure the bolts aren't bottoming out on the frame about half a turn before they would be tight enough, sounds silly but I had this on my Limey 320 and didn't notice as it was only a tiny amount, shortened the bolts a tad and it worked fine. God knows how you'd test for it though, just an idea.. hope you get it sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Set it up properly and you won't have any issues 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 I've Stripped 2 threads, That's not your Magura's fault Every pad set i use get un-squarely weared even though I use the Echo SL washerless clamps (I've had 5 pad sets under 4 months) If you're using washerless clamps (The SL clamps use washers, the TRs don't) then you may need to file your frame to get your mounts nice and square. TNN have a video guide type thing for that on their Youtube channel. Every 10-60 mins I have to move the wheel using the snail cams, or move the cylinders. This have a tad to do with my shitty Neon 'smooth' snail cams, (New RockMan CNC 'nothced' snail cams are on the way) But this doesn't explain why my magura cylinders move, no mather how hard I tension the clamp bolts. This is to me F*cking ridicolous. If your wheel's moving too, are you sure it's your cylinders moving? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 That's not your Magura's fault If your wheel's moving too, are you sure it's your cylinders moving? Hahah that's right, but it's mainly because I have to move it around so bloody much. Ops sorry I meant the TR clamps. Im pretty bad at maguras parts and names. But the "cylinders" the way I explain them is the part where the clamps 'go around' if that makes sence. This might be called master cylinder? But after some riding they tend to move abit, and I really don't wan't to mess with my 4-bolt threads so I use the TPA instead. And after some bit of riding the 'pistons' (the part where you clip on the pads too) move abit like the trick you use when you should grease your pistons, so only one 'pad' side is moving and braking the rim... Sorry for the sloppy reply. Set it up properly and you won't have any issues I'm trying to.. New pads and new snail cams are on the way, se how it goes... Edit you still got fix your bolt holes for v adaptor to bolt in and stay tight Just wanted to clear out that the stripped threads are on my previous frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlperkins Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 yeah when i bought the TR clamps (washerless) i realised my mounts werent 100% straight, (very few are) so i filed them straight and my pad is 100% square to the rim now and it works perfect, as for the cylinders slipping, this happened to me too.. basically i cleaned off the clamps to get grease etc off, then gave the cylinders a light sanding just to make them rough. the idea being that the rougher the cylinder the more friction it has and the less it moves. not sure if this is correct but it worked (then again i might have set it up better when i put it all back on the bike) make sure you clean out your frame threads & bolts before putting the bolts back in, i used WD40 on a ear bud. then copper grease the bolts and set it all up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Grease on the bolts is important too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CalRobbo341 Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Go dual disc, or brakeless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 yeah when i bought the TR clamps (washerless) i realised my mounts werent 100% straight, (very few are) so i filed them straight and my pad is 100% square to the rim now and it works perfect, as for the cylinders slipping, this happened to me too.. basically i cleaned off the clamps to get grease etc off, then gave the cylinders a light sanding just to make them rough. the idea being that the rougher the cylinder the more friction it has and the less it moves. not sure if this is correct but it worked (then again i might have set it up better when i put it all back on the bike) make sure you clean out your frame threads & bolts before putting the bolts back in, i used WD40 on a ear bud. then copper grease the bolts and set it all up. Yeah mine wheren't, so i filed them to, but I only filed them to the point where the color where gone, and I didn't even mesure it (stupid me). Ok, thank you very much I will try this! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 Go dual disc, or brakeless! Dream on... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dngr2self Posted June 7, 2012 Report Share Posted June 7, 2012 TNN washerless clamps are awsome(I've never tried the ehco ones though). I had to take 2mm off my bolts as well when I changed my frame as, although it seemed tight, the cylinders moved when the brake was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 this Vees are better. End. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 this Sooo they're basically better? If so, what adaptor should I use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 They are better if you know how to set them up,that´s might be bit of a problem with you I´m affraid(no pun intended). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gage-mann Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 I found vee was okay for everything but gaps, I lost like half a foot of my gapping just because the brake wasnt as snappy as my magura for quick gaps but isupose it could be down to how you gap? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Wouldn't ever run vees on the rear, just learn to set up hs33's and you'll be fine. Front vee's aren't too bad though, if you set it up right ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 The order of awesome is: Double disc -> brakeless -> vees -> brakeless -> double disc -> maguras 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Or if you don't follow the alternative crowd maggys are f**king epic if you know how to set them up properly... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted June 9, 2012 Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Or if you don't follow the alternative crowd maggys are f**king epic if you know how to set them up properly... True story, if you ride competitively, use maggies. If you ride TGS, use maggies. If you ride a bike, use discs. If you don't like discs, go brakeless. If you don't have any balls, use vees. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 9, 2012 Or if you don't follow the alternative crowd maggys are f**king epic if you know how to set them up properly... Well embarrassing enough, I think I'm not that good in setting them up... :$ Any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 So I'm now thinking of using V-brakes because they're sooooo much easier to set up and I wont strip the threads etc etc. But how is the actual braking performance? Is it comapare-able to maggies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 No,it´s better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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