LEON Posted September 18, 2017 Report Share Posted September 18, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herbertlemon102 Posted September 20, 2017 Report Share Posted September 20, 2017 (edited) Been helping my dad rebuild his '69 BMW R60/2. I've just been doing some of the heavy manual labour, everything on it is his work. When he bought it it was rusty and dented, he's refurbished and redone every single part of this bike. Wheel rebuilds, had one of the cylinders re-machined to original spec due to extensive damage, hes constantly ordering OEM parts over from Germany, it really is a work of art and I can't wait to see it running again. It's also one of the first shaft drive I believe? Edited September 20, 2017 by Herbertlemon102 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted September 22, 2017 Report Share Posted September 22, 2017 Bike passed the MOT. Happy days! going to get the new seat modified to fit nicely and go as far as I can with getting things ready before breaking out the angle grinder.The main issues are where the numberplate and lights etc. are going to sit and what to fill in the hole under the frame with once the stock plastic parts are removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted September 25, 2017 Report Share Posted September 25, 2017 On 22/09/2017 at 6:02 PM, monkeyseemonkeydo said: Bike passed the MOT. Happy days! going to get the new seat modified to fit nicely and go as far as I can with getting things ready before breaking out the angle grinder.The main issues are where the numberplate and lights etc. are going to sit and what to fill in the hole under the frame with once the stock plastic parts are removed. Make a bracket to hold the plate/lights behind the rear axle (legal position) for further MOTs and one that mounts it below the tail of the chopped seat unit for normal use. If you get tugged for it then perhaps look at something different; I think as long as the plate is fully readable, and no lights are obscured you should get away with it. Fill in the hole with a sheet of aluminium zip tied on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topsy Posted June 17, 2018 Report Share Posted June 17, 2018 (edited) Thought I'd put since life into this thread Received a box of parts last Wednesday which contained more boxes and parts: Currently sorting the parts and seeing what's damaged/missing. Should hopefully sometime turn into a 1937 Rudge Special. Edited June 18, 2018 by Topsy fixed image 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topsy Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 (edited) Off to a good start! What I didn't see on the photos was that I'll need a new cylinder: "needs a hone and the sleeve" - seller Not sure a sleeve will be enough to fix that! And someone nicked the striking forks out of the gearbox and the layshaft is fairly chewed. I started assembling the forks today with my mate and, nearly to my surprise, most of the parts are here, except of course the bearing balls. And that the steering column is bent and is missing the thread is some spots. Edited June 24, 2018 by Topsy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 24, 2018 Report Share Posted June 24, 2018 Cylinder is easily repairable, a bit of plate welded in, machined back and honed should be good; there's no stress on the skirt, you might even find that the piston doesn't even sweep over the broken section hence why it's been left as is. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topsy Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 I was hoping to hear something like that! Totally makes sense too, but I was told that it "most likely will need to be replaced". However I think it's definitely worth a try fixing it first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 You could try fixing it first but then you don't want to mash a piston and conrod in the process. However definitely see what others have to say about it. If you did weld in and machine back as above, and sleeve it, that could indeed be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Topsy Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 42 minutes ago, Tony Harrison said: You could try fixing it first but then you don't want to mash a piston and conrod in the process. However definitely see what others have to say about it. If you did weld in and machine back as above, and sleeve it, that could indeed be fine. No, I definitely don't want to do more damage. I'll need to check piston travel and everything first but for that it'd help if I'd get hold of a piston in the first place as that's one of the parts that's absent. I suppose it really depends on how easily I can find a replacement cylinder and how much it'll cost. I will of course also get more opinions but I have the feeling it might not necessarily be very conclusive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted June 25, 2018 Report Share Posted June 25, 2018 After the oil scavenge pump on the supermoto failed and lunched my bore/piston/rod I was looking at having to replace the cylinder (500+ quid - overbored nikasil plated aluminium cylinder); the bore had been gouged out at least a mm in places, plating was shot and there was some broken material at the head interface. I was recommended a local place that does a lot of 2smoke refurbishment and tuning. Spoke to them about putting an iron liner in and he didn't want to touch it as there wasn't enough meat in the aluminium to support it long term. As it was they took the old cylinder, ground out the remaining nikasil, welded up all the damaged aluminium, machined, replated and honed. Cost 193 quid all in! As that looks like an iron cylinder I wouldn't expect it would be too onerous to get a sleeve put in there if the the patch/remachine repair isn't viable. You really need to speak to a good engine shop. It was PJme that did my work, it did take a while to get done due to work load (about 6 weeks I think) but it was worth the wait. http://www.pjme.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 Here's my recent acquisition... 50cc beast to take part in a 5 hour off road endurance event for charity! Goes surprisingly well and should be a right laugh. Doing it for Hans Rey's Wheels 4 Life charity if anyone has any spare change to give... Just Giving 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 D'oh. After 51,000 miles my ER6n has just eaten itself joining the M27. Reasonably hard acceleration away from J5 roundabout and it made some nasty noises with a complete loss of power. Immediately pulled the clutch and got it to the hard shoulder but it's terminal from the sounds of it Not sure how much damage it's likely to have done (now seems to be seized) or how one deseizes and engine in order to get into it to find out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEON Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 (edited) It stopped being a c#'t long enough for me to do a track day, it was good. Edited July 5, 2018 by LEON 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 4 hours ago, monkeyseemonkeydo said: D'oh. After 51,000 miles my ER6n has just eaten itself joining the M27. Reasonably hard acceleration away from J5 roundabout and it made some nasty noises with a complete loss of power. Immediately pulled the clutch and got it to the hard shoulder but it's terminal from the sounds of it Not sure how much damage it's likely to have done (now seems to be seized) or how one deseizes and engine in order to get into it to find out! What's the oil system? When the ccm seized it was just the little end nipped up because the scavenge pump had cavitated and pumped the entire oil tank into the sump (rotax motor is dry sump). Fortunately because the rest of the engine was full of oil it survived unscathed. The little end nipped because it's sprayed by a jet from the underside, the jet is an integral part of the oil pump and lost pressure first. Pull the motor and head, it might come free but chances are the cost to rebuild will be more than a scrap donor bike/engine. 51k is a healthy innings though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Cheers for that. I've just bought a second hand engine with 13k on it for £300 delivered on eBay. It's a bit tatty from salt corrosion so I'll either swap over my tidier bits/covers or just sort it out and paint it. Should still be able to sell some of the parts of the mullered engine to make some funds back. Ah well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Smooth hammerite, paints engines lovely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Does it not need to be high temperature paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Nope, plenty of the old oil burner gixxer motors have been sploshed with smoothrite over the years. Engine cases get hot but not that much above 80°C at a guess. This stuff is also very good albeit more expensive http://pj1.com/i-19004782-pj1-fast-black-engine-and-case-paint-500f-satin-black.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 5, 2018 Report Share Posted July 5, 2018 Spot on, cheers dude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 7, 2018 Report Share Posted July 7, 2018 Just seen William Dunlop's died following a crash at the Skerries 100. Very sad news . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Harrison Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 You're f**king kidding me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Nope, afraid not. In exploded ER6 news I struggled to get the plug out of cylinder 1... Pretty sure it shouldn't look like that... And then when I pulled the exhaust header off this little collection fell out of the can end! Assuming it's dropped a valve into the cylinder causing CABOOM! Question now is whether it's worth investigating any further or just write it off and stick the replacement lump in. Any experience out there of what I'm likely to be looking at? Thinking minimum of head, cylinders, at least one piston and conrod... Could one piston being grenaded and seizing cause the bottom end and crank etc. to get f**ked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted July 8, 2018 Report Share Posted July 8, 2018 Chuck it, with that much potential debris swilling round the sump it could have got anywhere, doesn't take much to block a pressurised oil line. If you want to take the time to completely strip, clean and inspect then I dare say some bits might be reusable, but it's a 50k motor, it's at end of life anyways. After the ccm lunched itself, I stripped the oil pump to try to find the source of the starvation, the sides of the scavenge pump rotor (dry sump, oil in frame with a double trochoidal oil pump; one rotor pumps round the motor, the other scavenges the sump back to the frame) were scored from previous debris that had been passed through. There were cavitation witness marks on the rotor lobes and it had obviously been a long standing issue, just didn't rear its ugly head till what acceleleration at 110mph. A testament to the robustness of the rotax motor that I rode it the 7 miles home after nipping the little end and destroying any form of ring seal or bore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted July 9, 2018 Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 Yeah, that's the conclusion I'm coming to. The oil seemed fairly good (no obvious bits in it) but as you say it has no value even if I fixed it so I think I'll strip the current engine of reusable bits (by me) then sell the covers etc. on eBay before weighing in the rest of the lump. Think I'll open it up anyway to see what it's like in there (and recover the piston to add to my small collection) just for the sake of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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