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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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6 hours ago, forteh said:

It would make it a little more complicated with a couple of extra pivots but no more castors.

Side loading on castors bends the vertical axle (assuming they're not fixed castors) which typically spews the thrust ball bearings all over the floor. 

... Helpful things...

Ahh, cheers, yeah I get you. I had considered something similar, but I was thinking more along the lines of building a tray of ~60xó0x6 RSA with a caster on each corner, to place what I've made in (whole but minus the casters.) the deciding factor was that I don't have ant 60x60x6 RSA lying around, and I'm being cheap/impatient, so I thought I'd see how the casters did as it is! The bearings seem pretty chunky, so I think there's some hope they'll last. If they don't I'll do something along the lines of your idea though, thanks for the suggestion. 

I went out earlier and made up the bracket to go on the front of the car, then tested the jig on it. It worked perfectly, with barely any torque needed on the threaded rod. Then I realised that thanks to where the tressel the back end's sat on is placed, I could pick the front of the car up quite comfortably, so it wasn't surprising :lol: 

I shuffled things around and tried it on the back, which is essentially complete other than the exhaust, gearbox and bumper. It picked it up no real issue, but due to the threaded bar being offset to the side from the pivot, the frame was trying to twist, which I wasn't keen on, so I ended up adding a second threaded bar to the other side to balance out the loading, and provide some added safety. 

DSC_4781.JPG

With the second threaded rod on there it's rock solid, and the casters don't seem to be complaining at all, so I'm pretty happy to call it finished for now, but I will be keeping an eye on the casters. I may add a strap with some holes to lock it up, but with 2 m20 rods, either of which can lift the car on its own with a sensible amount of torque, I feel it's pretty safe as it is. The car will be stripped of at least the boot and doors before its mounted up too. 

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C/p


Been working on my other engine this weekend..

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In other news, made more progress today with the brake lines. Decided that today i'm going to make a start on them and stop putting it off, pretty much done them all! Just a few P clips to install now but that can wait for another day.

Getting the hang of this pipe bending stuff now

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So the fronts...

Fitted the 4 way brake connector to the alu sheet on the bulkhead, has to be 4 as one comes from the pedal box, one for a pressure switch for the brake and one for each front brake.

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To allow the pipe I made earlier to fit nicely

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I then required two holes, one at either side for the brake line to go to each brake. They were drilled and used grommets to stop and chaffing

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Then using my trusty coat hanger I mocked up where I wanted the brake line

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Flash to give some kind of reference haha, this is for the front o/s

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Then pipe bend time

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And in

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Then I did the same for the other side

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I then fed that along the bulkhead which you can clearly see at the back there

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and we're in

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Secured absolutely solid with  P clips

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And going to the n/s brake hose

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At this point I was going to call it a day but I as on a roll so I decided to do the rear one too. This was going from the pedal box to the T piece at the rear... containing many angles and many bends. I didn't have a coat hanger long enough so had to use the same piece three times, just required lots of double measuring to make sure

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Worked really well though

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P clipped in

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Please note - the car is going to get one hell of a make over with paint and tidying everything up once it's all in. Just getting the mechanical work done first before all the finishing up jobs.

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Speaking of p clips and pipes I noticed one of the p clips had come off the petrol pipe on the mini. They are pop riveted on so I assumed rust. Lifted the carpet and found this yellow crusty stuff:

IMG_1857.JPG

ive heard of galvanic corrosion before between 2 dissimilar metals (steel shell / ali pop rivet) but never like that. The rivet has literally dissolved. 

Checked the other 4/5 on the pipe and they are all fine. 

I put a dab of pu sealer on all the rivets before I put them in. 

Anyone seen it happen before?

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Moisture accelerates galvanic corrosion dramatically, is that one in a damper position than the others?
Typically a layer of paint between dissimilar fixtures is sufficient, however if there is vibration or movement then it's not likely to last too long before wearing through.

Edited by forteh
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Just excited with a new idea so need to post :P I came across this video yesterday and was amazed at how that car handled (especially round the 3:20 mark). I have such a car neatly maturing and rotting away in the garage and I don't know what to do with it. At the same time I would love to continue with motorsport but I choose not to be able to afford to run the M3 anymore, once it's been rebuilt. It's just an idea but perhaps the Daihatsu could be turned into a gokart type of hillclimb/tarmac rally car making it a cheap but rather extreme racer, undoubtedly much more fun to drive than the M. One thing at a time but watch this space... I've contacted the owner of the car below, fingers crossed he'll want to talk about it...

 

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More Civic stuff.

It turns out airline fittings are the perfect thread size/pitch for a DC2 steering rack lower union.. 

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I'm running no power steering with what was originally a power steering rack so I needed to loop it out to allow the pressure from either side of the piston to be transferred to the opposing side while keeping out the rain/dirt and generally preventing making my steering feel crap. 

I had the DC2 upper union so that was no problem. Was finishing up re-sealing one of my wheels/tyres, and thought the airline end of the inflated looked very close to that of the rack... it fits. 

Add a little ATF for lubrication, two jubilees, a length of hose and the jobs done. 

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I plan to source another rack to fully dismantle in order to remove all internal components related to making it a power steering rack for a more perminent solution: i.e. Remove rack piston, diverter valves/unions, pack with grease and rebuild. 

My bonnet and bumpers should be here tomorrow.. the only remaining pieces left! 

IMG_0312.JPG

 

Edited by SamKidney
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...aaaannnnddd it's at a stand still again. 

Turns out that, while it runs it, the conversion harness is wired for a wide band o2 sensor and not the narrowband sensor my standard ECU is looking for. 

 

My option now is either source a DC5 integra ECU and sensor, or spend £800.00 + on a Hondata K Pro ECU that will enable me to disable the o2 sensors. 

Possible to rewire for narrowband but it's a pain in the arse going by the folk I've asked that are in the know. 

f**k :( 

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MOT prep, took the decat pipe off, put cat back on, only for the shitting mani->cat bolts to fall off while driving, purely the result of me being a gypo and just buying a new gasket rather than the full kit.

 

Northwest Performance are shit, took them 3 weeks to send the kit to me, even though i paid for next day delivery. So i had 3 weeks of straight manifold annoying literally everyone, including myself.
Kit arrived missing a washer on both sides, although now i read up on it, its apparently a kit for some Peugeot.

Old axle washers saved the day.

tightened handbrake cable and then called it a day..... completely forgetting to reattach the heatshield for the shifter properly, now it flaps and rattles like a willy. But the exhaust is quiet again, and the car once more has power.

Anyone ever took their car to halfords for an MOT?

Edited by TROYston
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b*****d alternator belt on the Audi just shredded itself due to aux tensioner pulley collapsing , and the MX aux belt is now squealing as soon as I started it ! Fuuu.......

ibiza now has a working handbrake , and new wiper motor so fingers crossed for MOT tomorrow so I can get her sold and make more room for the Mx work

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