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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Unrelated to Dan's Clio:

This

IMG_20161006_194812_HDR_zpsgwny6rzg.jpg

vaguely resembles this, right? (Other than the side sliders being the wrong way round!)

subframecad_zpsysqp8wdc.png

Operation: CheapSeatSubframes seems to be on track.

Without buying a set of S3 Recaro seats, getting hold of a set of seat subframes for the Mk4 chassis* is either a complete ballache or expensive as f**k, so I figured I'd just DIY it.

*With the exception of the TT, which looks a piece of piss, and without wanting to strip the car and weld in rails as I'd like to keep things reversible for now.

Will look something like this once it's all done. Low as possible and ready for side mounts to bolt to. Need to double check how far forward I need them (if anyone has/can roughly produce a dimensioned drawing of side mounts it'd be epic) but it's all fairly simple really. Job's a good'un.

IMG_20161006_194630_zpsr1v1f5pq.jpg

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Yeah there's not a huge amount to them really, particularly since these only really need to provide a sturdy platform for the side mounts to bolt to. The S3 Recaros came with something fairly similar as standard, but the majority of Golf/Leon/A3 seats have an integrated frame in the seat which can't (easily) be reused. Aftermarket stuff is available, but it's all a little overpriced and can be tricky to track down a decent solution so I figured I'd DIY it. £25 of materials is plenty to do both seats, bargain. It'd be easy enough to make things lighter/simpler if required, but I figured I'd do it right and make sure it's (more than) up to the task!

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Definitely.

These aftermarket frames sold on eBay the other day for £185 the pair.
VW-Golf-Mk4-18T-R32-TDI-Audi.jpg

Here are the standard S3 Recaro frames (pics courtesy of our very own @george_seamons)

2014-06-07 16.28.53.jpg

Plan is to use the sliders that come with the seats to provide adjustment (they'll increase the height by ~20mm or so, hence wanting these frames as low as possible) so hopefully they should do the trick. If they sit too high, or something interferes with the adjustment I'll reconsider/adapt, but they should do nicely. I'd prefer to keep the adjustment on the offchance anyone else needs to drive the car, though if it needs to go it's no biggy.

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Wont bother with photos until my iPhones fixed haha, that image is hideously bad. 


Sorted a deal on my B16. 

I receive: 

  • Innovative 85A Poly K swap mounts (New in box)
  • EG subframe 
  • EG steering rack 
  • DC5 Integra Shifter box 

DC5 Integra gear cables

All said and done the above has the potential to exceed £700 in total value. 
Im only giving him the engine and box with ancillaries (around £400-£500 worth) which leaves me with engine loom, ecu, mounts etc... to sell on.

All being well it just leaves me needing to purchase a conversion harness to link the EP3 loom with the EK4 dash loom, and sort a fuel system out. 
Running by Christmas is the goal (Y) 

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1 hour ago, Danny said:

What's the deal with the subframe and rack? Do you have to change them to do the conversion? 

That engine needs a good scrub. 

I can use mounts suited to the EK subframe but the way the engine sits as a result isnt ideal and leaves limited room between the inlet manifold and slam panel. 
Im planning on running a larger inlet mani and full width S2000 alloy rad. Using the EG subframe and the mounts to suit sits the engine a little further back and the angle it sits at changes too. Increases sump/ground clearance and slam panel/inlet. 

Steering racks are interchangable but mines about knackered. 

I steamed the engine off today. Looks a million times better! 
The bonus with the dust was that it highlighted any oil leaks. Only one to report and its minor which is a good sign!

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182 is being a twat. twice now, goes to start car, turns key only to get standard dash lights asif key is still in position 1, no starter attempt, no noise, other than fuel pump prime (?) when first switch to ign pos 1, even holding the key on to the starting position does nothing. When it does finally start idle is LUMPY as f**k and bumbles at about 1500-1700 for a minute or so.

 

Possible very dirty throttle body symptoms maybe?

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