CurtisRider Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 They are so handy to have, try and avoid disposable bottles unless you have deep pockets! I have 5 welders now really should stop buying stuff.... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 It's gasless anyway, so no worries on the bottles! I've got the same one. Good work Dan. Can you weld already or are you going to learn with this? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted September 3, 2016 Report Share Posted September 3, 2016 Yeah I've done a bit of welding at uni and at my dad's work before so I've got the basics down but I'm going to get a load of scrap metal to properly practise on as it's been a while before hand. Too excited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) 11 hours ago, dann2707 said: I'm going to get a load of scrap metal to properly practise on Would you mind posting pics of some of the test welds please? We (me and the old fella) are greatly in need of a welder for bike/van stuff (so it needs to have balls enough for chassis work and be delicate enough for panelwork/pretty finish quality stuff). Given that both of us can weld just fine it's rediculous that the MOT garage are the ones sorting out the (g)rot I did some research a while back and on a forum was scared off clarke brand as a bit naff, which was dissapointing as it was a realistic price, so if anyone else could contribute their 2p about the £150-£250 (retail price) gasless migs available from machine mart and the like I'd truely appreciate it. I've played with my mate's B & Q special gasless wire fed MIG once or twice and It seemed just the job, but I'm wary I'd commit to one and it would not be what I thought I was getting. One that plugs into a domestic socket and generator would be a luxury too. Just want to read some 1st hand reviews really. Cheers. Edited September 4, 2016 by CC12345678910 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 I had a Clarke 135TE for a bit - about £250 IIRC - was fine for anything from 1-3mm, but didn't have the beans for anything thicker or the finesse for anything thinner. Wouldn't touch gasless personally. Now have an Esab caddy 160, worlds apart. Much easier to use, much 'smoother' (hard to describe), more consistent, copes with thin stuff perfectly. Really glad I upgraded. If you can get something a bit better, you'll be much happier with the results... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Agreed on avoiding gasless, in my limited experience it's just absolute messy crap, the difference between gas and gasless is night and day and barely any difference in initial outlay. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Recaros, Corbeau rails and Spoon themed cam cover collected yesterday. Over the moon. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CC12345678910 Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 (edited) 7 hours ago, Adam@TartyBikes said: I had a Clarke 135TE for a bit - about £250 IIRC - was fine for anything from 1-3mm, but didn't have the beans for anything thicker or the finesse for anything thinner. Wouldn't touch gasless personally. If you can get something a bit better, you'll be much happier with the results... This 7 hours ago, Jolfa said: Agreed on avoiding gasless, in my limited experience it's just absolute messy crap, the difference between gas and gasless is night and day and barely any difference in initial outlay. and this, lines up with the opinion I had already formed actually, You get what you pay for etc. However @Adam If you stayed within those parameters, 1-3mm thick alright quality steel, was it ok enough to be considered for an ebay bargain? Essentially it's primary purpose would be fixing up holes/soft bits in chassis rails and then potentially some arch and sill work (actually kinda MX5 type stuff now that I think of it). So this doesn't have to be pretty, just strong and functional. Secondary to that would be random DIY like welding nuts to broken bolts or making odds and ends for example, so no seagull shit here would be a plus. I take the advice on board, I really do, but the only barrier towards keeping the trusty old bucket on the road ourselves is (as ever...) cost. Therefore something like the 150 notes yer Clio man has handed over is a realistic option. Personally believe it sure as shit would beat being screwed over by "get y'through" work that goes scabby in a winter & fails after 18 months. in the mean time I will google the Esab caddy 160. @ Anyone else, please dive in. cheers. Edited September 4, 2016 by CC12345678910 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 4 hours ago, CC12345678910 said: Personally believe it sure as shit would beat being screwed over by "get y'through" work that goes scabby in a winter & fails after 18 months. See also: my latest MOT. I doubt that's a long term fix lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 Mine gets used on bits for a near on 20 year old Land Rover, does fine for that. I can't complain, I was given it. I'd prefer a gas setup but this was free and it does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted September 4, 2016 Report Share Posted September 4, 2016 About 8 years ago I put a new torch on my dads 15/20 year old sealey mig and welded everything on my mini shell no problem. I keep looking at welders for the odd job and keep swaying toward sealey for cost and serviceability. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Emergency! - Calling all 1.8T owners The steering rack on my LC is leaking from one side badly. Is it best to drop the subframe to remove the rack or do it in place? Got to get this done today so I don't waste another day off work. Cheers, Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isitafox Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Drop the subframe, pretty sure you have to anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Drop the subframe Remove the dogbone mount (2x 13mm bolts, 2x 16mm), then you're left with 4 (21mm) bolts for the subframe, 4 (16mm?) bolts holding the rack to the subframe and 1 (13mm) bolt holding the column to the rack (under the footrest). From your post it sounds like a seal/similar has gone, but double check it's not one of the crush washers on the banjo fittings at either end as you can do these without dropping the subframe (though it is awkward this way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 17 hours ago, CC12345678910 said: @Adam If you stayed within those parameters, 1-3mm thick alright quality steel, was it ok enough to be considered for an ebay bargain? Yeah - it will work with patience and lots of tidying up afterwards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 59 minutes ago, Luke Rainbird said: Drop the subframe Remove the dogbone mount (2x 13mm bolts, 2x 16mm), then you're left with 4 (21mm) bolts for the subframe, 4 (16mm?) bolts holding the rack to the subframe and 1 (13mm) bolt holding the column to the rack (under the footrest). From your post it sounds like a seal/similar has gone, but double check it's not one of the crush washers on the banjo fittings at either end as you can do these without dropping the subframe (though it is awkward this way) Cheers guys! Went to pull off the drive for work and fluid everywhere! Just picked up a steering rack and phoned in sick ...it's going to be one of those days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Always wanted to do a 'start from the back and charge through' race, so with sharing / borrowing the car I got to do it yesterday. The other driver did qualifying, so I didn't have a time, hence starting at the back... Much fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 Nice Ads! Looked a great little battle with George - are you guys normally fairly evenly matched? When I saw him lose it a little I thought there might be some contact there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Stripped the interior of the civic this evening. Everything bar the dash board has come out. Sound deadening to tackle tomorrow night, then I can give it a quick rub down before I paint it. Also got my replacement door and wing on. New bumper is on the way along with a driver's side wing. My phone camera is f**ked. Edited September 5, 2016 by SamKidney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted September 5, 2016 Report Share Posted September 5, 2016 All sorted (touch wood), cheers for the help!. It was actually quite straightforward with dropping the subframe. Didn't have one of the banjo bolt copper washers so re-used the old one. Hopefully it will hold until I get round to replacing it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 6, 2016 Report Share Posted September 6, 2016 Got most of the sound deadening tar shit knocked out of the civic this evening. Just the driver's side footwell to do tomorrow. Hoover out all the little bits and then give it all a wipe down with thinners to remove all the residue. Sunroof bung ordered from Fiberworx, as soon as that arrives I can remove the sunroof mechanism, very heavy! Also looking into how I can lighten the doors and rear hatch without compromising their strength too much. I don't want to go too mad but they weigh a bloody ton. I have some windy window regulators to ditch the heavier electric options but I think its a negligible difference and I'm considering perspex windows anyway. Need to research which bits of the doors people have removed. All being well I'll be collecting a B20b lump out of a JDM CRV this weekend too to start my 2.0 VTEC conversion. Aiming to be at Cadwell on the 24th of next month as I've already booked the time so I have lots to do! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 How much to B20 lumps go for out of interest? Looks at B16 in corner.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Not a great deal Danny, only a few hundred quid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 Bit of a mare with the Poobaru. So I found that the intake hose was split. I originally bought a reasonably cheap silicone inlet pipe for it, and after massivery effort I came to the very sub optimal situation of slightly ripping the hose at the turbo inlet. This annoyed me. I globbed some silicone around the rip and no put it all together. This annoyed me and I knew I needed a new one. So I took the inlet manifold off, fitted some 8mm heat resistant spacers and replaced every single hose and clamp possible, all of the vacuum lines and basically anything I could get my hands on. Reassembled with the slightly ripped turbo intake pipe, all my will be taking it apart next week to fit a new, more expensive turbo intake pipe which should fit much better and not require silicone ripping force to get around the inlet and onto the turbo. It sounds lovely and healthy now Unfortunately none of the silicone inlets will work with the stock MAF and airbox arrangement so I've had to fit a very nasty cone filter. However I plan to purchase a 45* silicone joiner and mount a Honda S2000 air filter in the place of the standard airbox with a cold air feed from both the wing vent as well as a small trumpet mounted in the lower fog light cover with ducting through the wing to the filter. As the standard airbox assembly has a snorkel from the slam panel into a resonator in the wing and then through to the airbox. Giving me two nice big holes in the wing for ducting as well as a snorkel which I can cut to shape to feed the filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 7, 2016 Report Share Posted September 7, 2016 3 hours ago, Danny said: How much to B20 lumps go for out of interest? Looks at B16 in corner.... I got mine for £80.00 with no ancilliaries. Seen bottom ends sell regularly for anywhere between £80.00 to £130.00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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