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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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15 minutes ago, MadManMike said:

I thought Southerners were meant to be the fairies?

I'm driving around in a T-shirt with no roof on, you lot are discussing heaters?

It's August, man up!

(Yes I do get the irony, based on the car I drive...)

If you ever go full racekor like Dan with your MX5 some upturned hairdryers would work a treat in place of the OE heater matrix ;)

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26 minutes ago, MadManMike said:

I thought Southerners were meant to be the fairies?

I'm driving around in a T-shirt with no roof on, you lot are discussing heaters?

It's August, man up!

(Yes I do get the irony, based on the car I drive...)

Preparing for the future mate! Plus a frozen front screen isn't going to be ideal without a heater

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50 minutes ago, Danny said:

Cheers.  Looks like you need to get the grey paint out again.

Tell me about it. Need to touch up (lol)  a load of places in the rear too as the road trip has chipped it from carrying camping equipment around. All in good time. My interior looks interesting right now. 

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When the mini was on the road a womping T3 turbo 1" from the bulkhead generally kept me warm, aswell as the straight pipe down the middle haha. Heater looks good though Dan, where was that from mate? Something like that could be useful in the mini.

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6 minutes ago, Tom Booth said:

When the mini was on the road a womping T3 turbo 1" from the bulkhead generally kept me warm, aswell as the straight pipe down the middle haha. Heater looks good though Dan, where was that from mate? Something like that could be useful in the mini.

It's from demon tweaks, it's the £120 race heater that comes up as the first result. Managed to get it for £50 posted though with all the tubing too so that's cool. 

Ordered a load of switches last night. Can't wait to get them in as they look sweet. Went for black toggle ones which will be mounted to a carbon fibre panel.might do a solidworks assembly tonight of how it's going to look just because I can. 

 

Tom I don't suppose you still have some Arctic blue paint left do you? 

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The exhaust flexi on the s-max has been blowing for a while, giving it a somewhat tractorish rattle on acceleration and affecting to torque from low revs. Ford in their infinite wisdom decided to weld the flexi onto the manifold and it's completely non-servicable, a replacement manifold runs to about 800+ quid.

Local ford place recommended mij exhausts in Walsall and they cut out the old one, flanged the manifold made up a new flexi and fitted it all for 115 quid! Drive in drive out, took the mountain bike and did 18ish miles over to Sandwell trails whilst they did it :)

As a curious side effect, the new flexi appears to resonate just as the turbo spools and gives it a bit of low down rumble :D

tl : dr, exhaust got fixed and is now louder because racebus!

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So the squeal from these brakes hasnt gone away, So decided to film it and thus present to you the most windy film including 2 breaking points. 
The first is soft to medium breaking, the second noise is the only one that remains unless they're pushed hard.
The second is light breaking, the most common noise.
Maybe ive not fitted something correctly, maybe its just because of what they are for.
Once hot the 'initial squeal' goes away a bit. 
Ive bedded them in using the mintex's recommendation and also tried Adams 70 down to nearly nothing hard avoiding abs.

Is it fine or have i got something wrong, i didnt think enthusiast road/light track use pads would be this noisy, not that i care about that, im just fed up of no car people saying i need to fix it...

15ish second's and 28ish seconds in to avoid your ears bleeding.

Edited by TROYston
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6 minutes ago, forteh said:

Really, really daft question, have you copaslipped the back of the pads?

Yup, i might get them off weather depending this weekend and plaster the backings in copperslip. I might of been to light with the application after getting fed up of wiping it off the backings when i realise i havent filed enough backplate off.

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All the shims and bits still in between the pads and calipers?

My Clio has decided it will not start. At all. It turns over, but never starts. No bump starts either.

New battery and still nothing, different keys etc, checked fuses, earths etc etc.

All I can think of to check is for sparks and if fuel is pumping, but not sure the best way to do that, any ideas?

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16 minutes ago, Haz said:

All the shims and bits still in between the pads and calipers?

My Clio has decided it will not start. At all. It turns over, but never starts. No bump starts either.

New battery and still nothing, different keys etc, checked fuses, earths etc etc.

All I can think of to check is for sparks and if fuel is pumping, but not sure the best way to do that, any ideas?

no shims come out, nor did any go in....? EDIT: no wait, the FRONT1.jpg shims did go in.

Blocked fuel filter?
My car decided it hates cheap shit fuel. And runs like wank, so draining the tank, changing fuel filter and running bp ultimate or shell v-power(if the knobs dont rip me off for fuel again £35 of normal fuel for half a tank on the Up!). 

This is the state of tescos fuel nowadays 
bad fuel.jpg

 

 

Edited by TROYston
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Shims might be then wrong description, but there's little stainless bits that sit at the tops and bottoms of the front calipers and hold the pads.

Doubt it's the filter, as it runs perfectly when it did start, always run it on vpower.

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My Porsche won't run, not sure why yet though, it broke down the other day but i've been too busy to go over it. I think it's fuel related as it runs really slowly as long as you have it on full throttle so I fear its starvation of some kind or the fact I filled with Tesco fuel due to desperation on my way home from Nottingham.... 

Car side of the workshop is coming along, supports are all out and new beams in, Window frames made and the short wall is now getting covered in featheredge. I have been trying to plan out the lighting, I think I'll have 3 rows of lights over head per bay and some smaller lights at the back of the benches that can be independently switched on if needed. I'll have 20 double sockets and 4 16A sockets in total in this section, which sounds like lots but it's better than having trailing leads everywhere as well as constantly unplugging things. I hope to concrete some of the floor near the entrance next week when the ballast arrives, then I can crack on with the doors and get it locked up!

2016-08-24%2007.51.04%20HDR_zpswlyozf3a.

2016-08-23%2019.13.49%20HDR_zpstqo9oq6b.

 

2016-08-24%2018.17.34_zpshp2nc9an.jpg

Edited by CurtisRider
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1 hour ago, Haz said:

 

 

All I can think of to check is for sparks and if fuel is pumping, but not sure the best way to do that, any ideas?

Remove plug, clip into lead, place tip near as possible to an earth, crank and check for sparks.

For fuel, remove injector, check for fuel with key on and cranking, if there's no fuel there move closer to the tank one component at a time until you find fuel.

And TROYston, braking* the word is braking, not breaking :P

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