SamKidney Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 (edited) Who took the itb's sam? A lad called Raymond Chan. He's plonking them onto his high comp B20 build. Ordered an oem inlet manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, just can't find one for the ICV. Also; I'll grab that ECU off you this weekend along with some money's for this mid section of yours Edited September 7, 2015 by SamKidney Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Saw a shunt this morning and wondered what you guys think.At a large junction on my walk to work, there are two lanes that go left (very shallow radius corner and maybe 45 degrees round). There were two cars approaching, one on the left was sitting further back so it's front right wheel lined up with the car in the right hand lanes rear wheel.As they came round the corner, the dude in the right hand lane was clearly drifting across into the left. The road markings disappear in the middle of the junction and reappear at the other side, so maybe he didn't see them.The woman in the left hand lane had time to gesture with both hands in the air, then beep before he clipped her, and she didn't brake at all. I watched the whole thing clear as day and she had 1-1.5 seconds to avoid a crash, but didn't.Who was in the wrong? He caused it, but she could so easily have avoided it. Insurance will blame him but in my eyes it's 50/50. Yes he made a mistake but she made no effort to avoid the crash when it was clearly coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Tricky one - if you're aware shit's getting real then it's easier in general to try and avoid it. At the same time though, you'd hope the person cutting across would notice what they were doing, especially if you had a chance to beep and gesticulate. Since starting at TB again I've been cut up in the same way on the same roundabout 4 times now. That's over a 3 week period. If I'd "stood my ground" (so to speak) then there would definitely have been contact, in each case a similar thing to your story where someone would just float across into my lane on a roundabout so they could try and straight-line it rather than take the corner properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Don't get the 150 tdi Cupra, get a 130. The 150 is a shockingly shit engine. Not just saying that because I bought a lemon either, I know loads of people that had issues. The 130 seems much better and probably not that different in terms of performance. Anyway, refurbing my wheels again as I posted a couple of pages back. This time I'm doing it better, in a much better colour. First up, smash off the outside wheel weights: Then fill spare room with spray tent: All wheels primed, ready for sanding in 24 hours: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 That sucks with the cost Im not with you on the solenoid thing, or is that from a different conversation? Having watched the video with sound now you seem to be throttling back and knocking down the gears far earlier than I would have expected, basically you appear to be coasting on the clutch whilst knocking down gears till you hit the apex and then feeding power in. It seems very notchy on the down shifts, instead of fully disengaging the clutch and coasting just slip/feather it in and knock it down, you can then use the engine braking to help control speed. I think because the engine has so little inertia compared to a car (drops revs quickly) the engine side dogs are slowing down and hammering when you change gear and they hit the wheel side dogs (if that makes sense). Perhaps feeding a little throttle blip in with a clutch dip for each downshift to help smooth things out. I've never driven a car on a track so perhaps this is what you do but my experience of bike on track is that you're never coasting on the clutch, it's blip-down, blip-down, blip-down, tip the bike in and feed power on through the corner till you can roll on fully; each blip-down is a quick half pull of the clutch enough to allow it to slip but still keep engine revs up. Obviously four wheels makes a difference, perhaps bongo might be able to help you more with power delivery and downshift management as he has raced jap inline fours. Apologies - it was a bit of a random comment! I plan to make an auto blipper, with switches so that the clutch has to be down, the brakes on, and the downshift paddle pressed all at the same time (and another one on the dash so I can disable it all for road driving), which will fire a solenoid to blip on downshift... Yep, that's exactly what I felt like I had to do so I wasn't raping the clutch. There's very little feel with this setup in a car, mainly because it's meant to be operated by hand I guess, so the clutch is very on-off. I guess you *could* learn to feather it but it would be very very difficult and doesn't that just wear the clutch out? Engine braking in a car with a bike engine without a slipper clutch is a big no-no apparently, you can quickly ruin the transmission due to the extra grip at the rear wheels. I will always blip (and block shift) down in a car-engined car, but there just wasn't time here. Doing 4 downshifts in the distance / time it takes the car to slow down from ~110 to 40mph is impossible - in fact I had to brake earlier than normal to give enough time to get 3 in! Not so much an issue on a bike I guess, as the braking distances are quite a bit longer. I'll get it sorted anyway, and I like an engineering challenge Cheers for the info about the bike setup btw, appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted September 7, 2015 Report Share Posted September 7, 2015 Clutch plates are quick and easy to change in a bike though, not sure on the r1 but I wouldn't be surprised if it is a cassette gearbox as well. Understand the comment on the clutch being on/off, it is after all intended to operate with 5mm or so cable pull so I can see how feathering would be difficult. Maybe have a play with clutch pedal leverage and cable anchor point. Pushing the boat out and thinking outside the box... Change the gearchange to a foot operated and change the gear change paddles for clutch actuation. Would confuse the f**k out of any test drivers mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 A lad called Raymond Chan. He's plonking them onto his high comp B20 build. Ordered an oem inlet manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, just can't find one for the ICV. Also; I'll grab that ECU off you this weekend along with some money's for this mid section of yours Don't think I used one on the ivc valve lol. Mines fine. Ok buddy, drop me a text. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Clutch plates are quick and easy to change in a bike though, not sure on the r1 but I wouldn't be surprised if it is a cassette gearbox as well. Understand the comment on the clutch being on/off, it is after all intended to operate with 5mm or so cable pull so I can see how feathering would be difficult. Maybe have a play with clutch pedal leverage and cable anchor point. Pushing the boat out and thinking outside the box... Change the gearchange to a foot operated and change the gear change paddles for clutch actuation. Would confuse the f**k out of any test drivers mind True enough about the clutch plates... Not sure about the gearbox though - stories online are of 'it's cheaper to bang a new engine in than recondition the box'... Good call on the clutch lever pivot, I didn't realise it was designed to operate with such a small amount of movement. The ratio is definitely wrong at the moment then. Maybe it needs a 'half stop' (half a tennis ball, or something) mid way through the travel, so you can just touch against this to open the clutch enough for a downshift, yet push past it to fully disengage for 1st/2nd/neutral work. Haha, that sounds stupid at first but when you think about it it makes a lot of sense! The controls were designed to be used like that originally, so why not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 If you consider that the pivot-cable nipple distance on a motorcycle clutch lever is typically about 25-30mm (I think) then that should give you some sort of judgement on where you need to be pulling - I'm probably miles out with the 5mm mind Alternatively consider lengthening the external actuator arm on the engine to restore the actuation ratio. A flexible bump stop might work as a heath robinson slipper, however as the clutch plates wear you will need to re-adjust the clutch and cable slack to keep it at the same point - would be pretty hard to calibrate and reliabel set up the same. Probably better to sort the actuation ratio and use it like a normal clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 The wheels look good, need to get round to doing mine at some point. What sort of issues did you have with the 150? I don't like the pd130 styling, would much rather have another fr you see. Don't get the 150 tdi Cupra, get a 130. The 150 is a shockingly shit engine. Not just saying that because I bought a lemon either, I know loads of people that had issues. The 130 seems much better and probably not that different in terms of performance. Anyway, refurbing my wheels again as I posted a couple of pages back. This time I'm doing it better, in a much better colour. First up, smash off the outside wheel weights: Then fill spare room with spray tent: All wheels primed, ready for sanding in 24 hours: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 My issues with the 150 stem from having a car mapped to 199.6 and not looked after for 7 odd years, so my car isn't a good example. It ate through three turbos in 3 years. Mine was the 150 FR, which just looks a bit different to the Cupra. My friend has the 150 Cupra and his is standard and has also eaten through two turbos. I can't remember the other issues as I was reading up on it about a year and a half ago, but there was some issues specific to the 150. You might be alright, but if you end up buying a bad one like I did, it'll get costly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Rainbird said the 150's also have issues with the cam being weak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 If you consider that the pivot-cable nipple distance on a motorcycle clutch lever is typically about 25-30mm (I think) then that should give you some sort of judgement on where you need to be pulling - I'm probably miles out with the 5mm mind Alternatively consider lengthening the external actuator arm on the engine to restore the actuation ratio. A flexible bump stop might work as a heath robinson slipper, however as the clutch plates wear you will need to re-adjust the clutch and cable slack to keep it at the same point - would be pretty hard to calibrate and reliabel set up the same. Probably better to sort the actuation ratio and use it like a normal clutch Good info - thanks. I shall have a look at some clutch levers then... The actuator arm could be tweaked I guess, but there is good access to the pedal box so I think that might be easier (plus it's pretty agricultural so I can hack / weld it as I wish). Ah true, I'm used to hydraulic clutches in other cars - best sort it properly as you said Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 150s have a bit of an issue with part of the camtrain being made of chocolate yeah. The 130 is a better engine, and would be my choice all day long (hence why I recently bought Soph a 130 Golf) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 A lad called Raymond Chan. He's plonking them onto his high comp B20 build.Ordered an oem inlet manifold gasket and throttle body gasket, just can't find one for the ICV.Also; I'll grab that ECU off you this weekend along with some money's for this mid section of yoursIs it a B16 or B18? I may have a bare B16 inlet manifold if you need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Is it a B16 or B18? I may have a bare B16 inlet manifold if you need one. You don't have a throttle body do you? B16, I've got a bare manifold already and I can come by the sensors easily enough as half of them were left in my engine bay... I just need a tb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Hit 240k. Probably the best car I will ever own 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 Don't suppose you know the name of the highest trim level 130? I can't seem to find a complete model list? I want to compare a pd130 with my cupra spec wise. 150s have a bit of an issue with part of the camtrain being made of chocolate yeah. The 130 is a better engine, and would be my choice all day long (hence why I recently bought Soph a 130 Golf) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted September 8, 2015 Report Share Posted September 8, 2015 So folks, this saturdsy, September 12th, is the now famous Forge Motorsport Action day at Castle Combe:http://www.castlecombecircuit.co.uk/events/action_display_event.asp?BookingEventID=818 Every year, a charity is chosen, and many proceeds from the day go towards the charity and to a good cause. This year, the chosen charity is Mission MotorsportMission Motorsports aim: The Aim of Mission Motorsport is to aid in the recovery and rehabilitation of those affected by military operations, by providing opportunities through Motorsport. More info can be found on the website:http://www.missionmotorsport.org An awesome cause I'm sure you will all agree. Having known one of the founders Jim through another forum a frequent I've been following the charity for a long time, and the things they do, and the hurdles these ex servicemen overcome to compete in Motorsport at a high level are nothing short of incredible. This Saturday at Castle Combe I will be driving the A3 (if you're reading this you know the one) all day, giving passenger rides to the public in exchange for a donation to Mission Motorsport. For a small fee (I must admit I do not know the suggested amount) you can jump on board for a few laps around the Castle Combe circuit and see what the fuss surrounding track days is all about. All proceeds will go to Mission Motorsport, and I intend to have a thoroughly good day. I have slicks if the sun shines, and wets if it rains, so come what may, I will be there and having fun! Fun like this can be expected:http://youtu.be/RPrZBNN3dn0 It would be great to see some of you there, and even better if you can contribute towards a great cause and join me for a few hot laps 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Prawns copy/paste game upsets me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Don't suppose you know the name of the highest trim level 130? I can't seem to find a complete model list? I want to compare a pd130 with my cupra spec wise. As far as I know, the Leon 130 TDI only came as an "SE" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrayvon Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Just for the record, an Ibiza has the 130 and a 160 (which I presume is the same as the 150 just with a different map? - however I never read much about them failing so perhaps not). The 130 comes in sport and fr models. 160 being the cupra. Also fabia VRS is the 130. Haven't followed the entire convo so not sure if you just wanted a Leon or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 No more gold... Lacquer time tomorrow, wheels back on for the weekend 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted September 9, 2015 Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 Muuuuch better! Although laquer on dry paint again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted September 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2015 The paint specifies 24 hours before applying lacquer. The problem I had last time was the paint not sticking to the primer, the lacquer was fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.