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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Jardo, the MBC was plumbed in parallel with the N75 to control boost spikes (assuming it is piped up as the diagram below...which it sounds like it is). You might find its really spikey now if the map on it is shite.

mbc_parallel.jpg

Danny, seats are Corbeau Club Sports. They are £300 for a pair, with side mounts, and double locking runners. I would recommend the XL version unless you have a 32" waist or below:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corbeau-Club-Sport-NEW-Composite-Seat-with-mounts-runners-PAIR-STD-/231528633340?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item35e82e93fc

Yeah, it wasn't.

As I said, the actuator was plumbed directly to the turbo outlet pipe through an MBC, the N75 was pushed into the TIP with a pipe joining where the actuator should go, and where the pipe from the turbo hot side/pre intercooler intake pipe should go.

Utterly stupid.

I think the N75 prawn gave me is duff, because I can only get half a bar boost now; HOWEVER the car is immeasurably smoother on and off the throttle, and there is no jerkiness or cutting out between gear changes.

So I'm sat outside Prawns house now where I hope to return his drill, and Prawn permitting hopefully take a second to reset fault codes or maybe swap N75's with his other spare.

The car was mapped by Jabba previously to apparently 270bhp/280lbft as a stage 2 K04 map.

However I'm taking that with a pinch of salt, but it would explain why it hasn't blown up yet if it's just been running at 1bar boost on an MBC and in limp mode.

They come with sliders Danny. We installed them with sliders in jardos S3.

Standard size seat is TOO small IMO. I'm a 34'' waist, and I fitted and drove the car just fine, but scratching your balls on the move is absolutely out.

Bollock ammendments in the XL seat are hassle free when moving. So they win for me.

Whilst you aren't fat any more, you have a very different frame to me. You're wide from the hips up with chicken legs.

I'm very narrow top to bottom, so bollock adjustments are fine.

And luckily all of the sand that falls out of my fanny gives me a scratching free drive naturally.

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In4PMofmessage

Post the message here Rainbird!

I particularly like the last line. To be honest, I found it the most cutting:

You F***ing C***,

I noticed that you didn't f***ing put hat you were constantly f***ing away... thats why I couldn't collect....

Other than mix up of the parcels, I helped loads. Your a f***ing t*** b***s c***.

Its c***s like you that don't let people make the slightest f***ing problem without giving them negative feedback and hard time, I presume you are f***ing single with no kids... Mr f***ing so b***** perfect... Sad c***.

You never made a mistake... c***.

Go f*** yourself and your sister f***ing c*** c***.

You dweeb.

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They come with sliders Danny. We installed them with sliders in jardos S3. Standard size seat is TOO small IMO. I'm a 34'' waist, and I fitted and drove the car just fine, but scratching your balls on the move is absolutely out. Bollock ammendments in the XL seat are hassle free when moving. So they win for me.
Do you think they would mount to the subframes that come with most mini seats? (2 bolts each side front/back) save having to build something. I think I'm what you would call a "wee man". I'm only 5' 9" and 30-32 waist :-p
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So.

Went to Prawns, car was running so much smoother and generally lovely but only half a bar of BOOOOOOOOOST. (I think I know why now)

The roof was surprisingly quiet, certainly less whistly than the glass sunroof with knackered seals was. I also took it to the jet wash, and can confirm that even without sealant it is pretty much water tight. When it's sealed it certainly will be.

This made me happy.

11150261_1619895054892336_23595410997512

Got to Prawndog's picked up a spare N75, gave him his drill back and picked up the laptop for VCDS again because a few of us need it and he's away for the weekend.

We went out to do some data yogging because I'm still getting a recurring N75 fault code.

This whole one seat thing is a bit tricky.

11008596_10153555612326777_3421801329415

10926188_1619886274893214_50102531463653

Don't worry, he didn't die.

Only getting 5.1% duty cycle for the N75. Mmm.

Got back, Prawn just quickly checked it over and after pulling the wiring back he found something that hadn't occurred to me but should have done, he had a hunch whilst we were out driving that the N75 wasn't plugged in, I assured him it was.

Turns out one of the prongs in the plug had worked loose and when you clipped the plug in the connector was pushing out into the loom tape.

Prawn fixed this for me, and I did some logs on the way back home but a bit more extensively.

Whilst the timing, injectors and everything important seems to be spot on the ECU is only seeing 96G/S of airflow from the MAF and the N75 is still only giving 5.1% duty cycle. The two have got to be connected.

I pulled the MAF off when I got home and it's new, but it's a cheap unbranded one.

So I'm quite sure that the MAF is knackered, which is why the car is requesting such a small amount through the N75.

So I've ordered a new VR6 MAF just now in the hope that a new MAF hopefully reading correctly will give me the right powwwaaaaah.

And it's all tucked up and back home safe again :)

1471948_1619894988225676_411742954872091

As some bonus content, I fired loads of oil over it when I started my Mk2.

21916_1619888248226350_75687313594999685

Obnoxious little thing it is.

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Wife called, sounds like the clutch has gone on my car so I'm on a train to go find out. If I can get it into a gear this could be my first journey where clutch less driving is a necessity, which should be fun.

Done plenty of self enforced practise before, but never starting it. That should be fun being as she's in a leisure centre car park!

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b*****d.

20150417_161915_zpsvwwibzyx.jpg

Proper post later perhaps, but I suspect this is the b*****d that's been giving me issues.

Brown wires look fairly standard if I'm correct. And seem to head up into the ECU? If so, this should be an easy fix. If not, it could be all kinds of chaos...

20150417_163818_zpsy9stgjpz.jpg

20150417_164012_zpsg2u0wzlr.jpg

JD - which car's that on? Last I can remember you were still in the 3 series, 5 is still sat around and Hayley's mini has gone to a better place but I'm assuming that's a little different by now?

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Brown wires look fairly standard if I'm correct. And seem to head up into the ECU? If so, this should be an easy fix. If not, it could be all kinds of chaos...

20150417_163818_zpsy9stgjpz.jpg

20150417_164012_zpsg2u0wzlr.jpg

JD - which car's that on? Last I can remember you were still in the 3 series, 5 is still sat around and Hayley's mini has gone to a better place but I'm assuming that's a little different by now?

Brown wires the standard earth system mate (Y)

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JD - which car's that on? Last I can remember you were still in the 3 series, 5 is still sat around and Hayley's mini has gone to a better place but I'm assuming that's a little different by now?

5 has gone, Mini has very much gone, so we're a one car household now. Out of all the three cars we could have ended up with, this is definitely the worst result! Still it seems to be ok now albeit a bit of a b*****d to get into each gear. I'm nursing it around this weekend because I need it, but then I'll probably stick it in the garage on Monday if it hasn't got any better.

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The black box and associated wiring isn't standard, it's a (really shit) aftermarket mod.

Pulled it all out and now feels like it pulls a lot better, though logs aren't showing a particularly massive change. Tested the actuator earlier, appears to be fully closing and doesn't open until ~10psi or so. Turbo is beginning to have a smidge of play (though may well be small enough that oil pressure takes this up). Still making 3-4psi less boost than requested.

Edit; No N75 duty cycle. Looks as though it's not plugged in (though it is). Must have missed a wire somewhere, will take a look over the weekend at some point.

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I think at this stage Rainbow it might be worth taking to a specialist. Would suck if you were to throw random parts at it not knowing if it will fix the problem, not only for money's sake but time too?

You'd be able to tell if the MAP sensor is f**ked by viewing a live data reading on VCDS.

I'm in your boat though, I have a random revving issue. Haz instantly noticed it when he drove my car, setting off is so awful. Pulling up to junctions the car randomly revs. I've changed and swapped so many parts now it's ridiculous so i'm going to take it to a ren specialist who will no doubt find the issue in the space of an hour or so.

Edited by dann2707
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Edited above - think it's just a niggle remaining.

All the parts I've stuck on so far are bits I'd be putting on at some point in the next 6 months anyway, so it only really means I'm doing them a little sooner and learning a shitload more about how it all works as a result (Y)

Edit: To put it into perspective, even with the bits I've changed it's still cost me less than £1750 including buying the car :P

Edit 2: It's not all wasted time anyway - managed to finally get my mic wired in for my phone!

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I'm in your boat though, I have a random revving issue. Haz instantly noticed it when he drove me car, setting off is so awful. Pulling up to junctions the car randomly revs. I've changed and swapped so many parts now it's ridiculous so i'm going to take it to a ren specialist who will no doubt find the issue in the space of an hour or so.

Yay, our cars have something in common :P Mine's intermittent (and with mine is caused by needing to replace the idle air control valve) and most of the time is fine, but occasionally it just revs up to about 2.5-3k when I'm just sitting there. The best is when it does it at pedestrian crossings though...

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