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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Perfect opportunity to upgrade?

Possibly. Would love to throw a hybrid on there but realistically as my daily (for now, at least) I think I'll stick with something pretty much standard unless something pops up cheap. Will focus on all the supporting mods etc first and maybe map it up to ~300bhp or so, with the option of putting in rods and going hybrid down the line.

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Are they actually dead? I've haven't heard of many / any going, even on the race cars.

Good guide here: http://www.miataturbo.net/suspension-brakes-drivetrain-49/how-replace-your-rear-wheel-bearings-without-press-56506/

You will need a puller for the hub, trying to knock the driveshaft out of the bearing does not happen easily!

Whirring, humming, wob wob wob type noise present, louder when I turn, loudest when I turn right.

Sounds like bearings to me and my friend got in the other day and first thing he said was "Wow, dead bearing alert!"

Funny you should link to that, I had it bookmarked already :D

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Sounds like a bearing to me.

-

I've had to push back the cage a little bit, I made a phone call to ask about additional bracing and harness provision and the conversation was suggesting that due to work load it won't be built for about 6 week. Not the biggest issue.

It will be worth it :)

10955208_848326221876330_841105744999816

And I've just phoned Jabba to confirm mapping on Thursday 30th of April.

:D

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Right, I need to play with something that feels like progress so keen to get a FMIC sorted (retaining fogs if at all possible)

Welly core is nice and easy to get my hands on, but could someone confirm the list of pipework below:

Driver's side from core back - 90* silicone reducer, 90* alloy, 90* silicone, 100mm alloy, silione coupler

Passenger side core onward - 90* silicone reducer, 90* alloy, 90* silicone to OE MAP tube

Is that about right?

Thanks to George for the list before, mostly checking position of each component.

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Lol at Dan's dream.

Spent 3 days installing this engine. It shouldn't take that long! It's just the same as before but younger and with a bigger turbo.

Why did I paint the block, you can only see a little bit of it.

DSC_0334_zps3uvhihs2.jpg

I don't feel as though I'm in the clear yet though. I'm worried that it's burning oil but can't yet confirm as I only got it running last night. It's also quite noisy and tappety. :( REALLY hope it's not burning oil. That would basically be three days wasted by putting a worse engine in...

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could someone confirm the list of pipework below:

Driver's side from core back - 90* silicone reducer, 90* alloy, 90* silicone, 100mm alloy, silione coupler

Passenger side core onward - 90* silicone reducer, 90* alloy, 90* silicone to OE MAP tube

Just found this:

fmic_29.jpg

Assumine I'm aiming for the same layout (though alternating alloy/silicone) but with 90* reducers off the core rather than 45*?

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Another question for Adam.

If I have the front of my car on axle stands, what's the chances of me being able to get to the downpipe / manifold exhaust studs?

I'm hoping to change the exhaust myself at the weekend, just not sure it'll be that easy. I'm guessing a grinder is the way forward, but the idea of squeezing under the car with a grinder doesn't sound like a good plan.

Someone has offered to fit it for £45, I'm probably better off doing that, I just want the satisfaction of knowing that I did it :)

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That's right Lukey. Some people use 45's because they say it helps keep the fogs. I've fitted 3 kits now, all with 90's, and still kept the fogs.

Sounds like you might have a weak actuator - disconnect the N75 valve electrical plug and go for a blast...what does it boost to?

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Another question for Adam.

If I have the front of my car on axle stands, what's the chances of me being able to get to the downpipe / manifold exhaust studs?

I'm hoping to change the exhaust myself at the weekend, just not sure it'll be that easy. I'm guessing a grinder is the way forward, but the idea of squeezing under the car with a grinder doesn't sound like a good plan.

Someone has offered to fit it for £45, I'm probably better off doing that, I just want the satisfaction of knowing that I did it :)

Should be fine, I've done a couple before just on axle stands (although I think I had the rear elevated a bit too). As long as you have a breaker bar, 6 point sockets (you need a 14mm IIRC) and some wobbly extensions (about 3ft's worth) you should be fine. Worst case the bolts will snap and you can just replace them anyway :)

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When I tried to replace the cat I found there wasn't enough space to get leverage, I guess it's easier on the manifold because it's higher up?

I'm just trying to avoid borrowing all the kit to do it with, then finding something that stops me from doing it.

I don't have all the tools myself, so I'd be going to a lockup and grabbing stuff to do it with.

I've got all the gaskets, paste, pipes, just making sure I have all the right tools - breaker bar and variety of sockets, anything else that'll come in handy?

Cheers for your help!

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Hmm. I didn't have that issue with the cat, but yeah, I think the manifold nuts will have slight better ground clearance / access.

See what you mean! I'd be getting some new bolts ready to go in, and also lather them in copper grease upon fitting. Torque wrench would be handy (40Nm) but 'pretty tight' would do the job as well.

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I've got all the bolts ready to go so no worries there :)

I'm assuming this type is OK for the whole exhaust (ie manifold to down pipe, to cat, to cat back):

626950b9-0db8-4761-9a8c-0b633b28a532.jpg

I wasn't sure if the manifold used different bolts. Oh, I have the nuts too, not just the studs in the photo.

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Cars all sorted. Had shorted out the hazzards and the passanger window £135 later and it will be getting taking out for a good thrash tonight :)

Cars all sorted. Had shorted out the hazzards and the passanger window £135 later and it will be getting taking out for a good thrash tonight :)

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That's right Lukey. Some people use 45's because they say it helps keep the fogs. I've fitted 3 kits now, all with 90's, and still kept the fogs.

Sounds like you might have a weak actuator - disconnect the N75 valve electrical plug and go for a blast...what does it boost to?

Spot on, cheers bud. Shall get some logs later with the N75 unplugged and report back - for now the weather's nice so I'm going to head home and do a few little bits I've been putting off first :)

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Halfway through a slightly overdue coolant change as I totally forgot I was planning on replacing the oil cooler. Oops!

Better get a new one ordered up then! Not sure if I'll go external as seems a little excessive for what I need. Would make sense to do it at the same time as a FMIC though...

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my car makes some weird noises

Basically it is louder a little, you can hear it mostly around idle, and if the revs go down, you hear small bangs. it has a deeper tone

we guess it is the exhaust but we cannot really identify it behind the noise of the valves...

the fun of cheap cars .

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Sounds like exhaust but near engine end, maybe manifold. Stick your hand in around the manifold area when starting cold and see if you feel anything.

Just checked valve clearances. Two are slightly out of spec. No idea why I didn't check that before! Not too worried about it though. If the new cam shows up any time soon I'll get the clearances sorted. (If the rest of the engine keeps working!)

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The last few days in bullet points;

  • My bonnet has holes in.
  • Car desperately needs a wash.
  • I f**king love my car.
  • There will be pics.
  • Many, many pics.
  • It will actually be drive-able Monday after it's all been set up, tracked, corner weighted, etc.
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Bank.

-

Hahahahaha, I failed a recorded mystery shop on Friday.

Been out for a test drive, loves the car, happy with the figures...Just wants to go home and check with his wife before he signs an order form.

Then I say...

"Well, if your wife is the decision maker then what are you doing in my showroom test driving cars?"

We all had a good laugh watching that one in the morning meeting today.

Edited by Pashley26
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