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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Its not miles out, the theory is very simple though, anyone willing to spend £750 on a set of scales should know how to use them! Needs more weight on rear left and front right ideally, not sure how feasible it is in practice with a rear beam though.

Which model is your car exactly? How much did you weigh in at?

How did the geo go?

Are you bringing your scales to Curborough? :D haha

Mines a standard 182 not the full fat edition and it's came in at 1166kg that's with the drivers seat loaded with 60kg and half a tank of fuel. Other than that it went really awesome. Opted for - 2neg camber on the fronts. Haven't really had chance to fully blast it as had quite a lot on but it seems to feel way more sharper on the road!

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I could bring them but unfortunately without a calibrated or known flat floor and some platforms to roll on and off they would be next to useless :(

Man I wish I was 60kg, haha!

2deg is a good fast road setting, good call there. What was the toe set at? I've found a tiny bit of toe out works really well on a 1*2.

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I could bring them but unfortunately without a calibrated or known flat floor and some platforms to roll on and off they would be next to useless :(

Man I wish I was 60kg, haha!

2deg is a good fast road setting, good call there. What was the toe set at? I've found a tiny bit of toe out works really well on a 1*2.

That's fair enough mate and makes total sense :) The toe is set to normal but reckon I should have gone for it out now you say! I'll see how it performs at Curborough

Got a few pics of the weekend.
16623770572_39e08247f7_b.jpg1424514525535 by dann2707, on Flickr
Then today I set about fitting a new rear number plate light cover as mine was faded a bit. I've waxed this one prior to it going on
Dirty yum
I then cracked on making the mount for the track day that i've got coming up
Initially drilled some holes
For this u bracket
Then made them bigger
Then voila! Some how managed to get the distances wrong a little bit so it's not bang on central where the U bracket clamps for the headrest pole but it's fine it's absolutely solid. really pleased with it to say how easy and cheap it all cost.
Then the super grip is in place :)
Can't wait to properly test it out :)
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That is dangerous as f**k and absolutely stupid.

Sorry Dan, I'm not a fan at all. It's just incredibly dangerous, and I would be amazed if they even let you in the car park, let alone on a track with that.

Sod having a half inch metal bar at shoulder/neck/head height affixed to the head rests.

Those U bolts are going to absolutely ruin your spine, then when you fall out of your seat and are smashing your body up on the bar itself, that's all before the camera comes off and smashes through the windscreen or bounces around in the cabin at a high velocity.

Edited by Pashley26
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Once the headrests slide down it covers the ends of the pole, the pic just shows it before it's down. I can see where you've coming from, I got the idea from a track day thread and how other people have started doing it after the suction cup attachment apparently being outlawed and no one has mentioned them having problems with getting on track. I think the camera flying around is a stupid point though mate, what about when you've got a mobile phone on the dash tray haha.

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I've just ordered some of those little projector units like George fitted to his Leon.

I have a plan to fit some seriously bright f**kers to my Mk2, LED projector bulbs in the front fogs and white bi-xenons in the main lights.

Have you seen it done on your round lamps? I was wondering if there would be enough room inside or are you doing it another way?

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Well with hindsight I've probably done the wrong thing.

Mk2's just use a standard 7" sealed beam type unit.

I could have just bought something like this -

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&alt=web&id=331453660981

Screwed and tiger sealed it into the frame that holds the headlight and had a much neater finish?

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No you did the right thing, those cheap ones are awful and aren't proper projectors. I have some projectors from an R32 (not BiXenon though) that I was looking at fitting to some 7" units, there appears to be enough room but it leaves me stuck for main beam. Which units did you go for? What is the legality of retrofitting projectors as won't they technically need to meet some sort of standards (I'm aware of the legalities of non standard HIDs).

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That is dangerous as f**k and absolutely stupid.

Sorry Dan, I'm not a fan at all. It's just incredibly dangerous, and I would be amazed if they even let you in the car park, let alone on a track with that.

Sod having a half inch metal bar at shoulder/neck/head height affixed to the head rests.

Those U bolts are going to absolutely ruin your spine, then when you fall out of your seat and are smashing your body up on the bar itself, that's all before the camera comes off and smashes through the windscreen or bounces around in the cabin at a high velocity.

:lol: Sensationalist much.

Don't see any reason for it to be unsafe, have happily driven cars on (proper) tracks with the same setup before. Edit: Just realised it only fits on one of the headrest uprights - would prefer it to be contacting both so there's no way it can 'pivot' and head towards your neck, but it'll be reet for Curby, you won't crash!

Dan - your post with the photos was interesting until the bit where you said you cleaned a lens or something :P

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No you did the right thing, those cheap ones are awful and aren't proper projectors. I have some projectors from an R32 (not BiXenon though) that I was looking at fitting to some 7" units, there appears to be enough room but it leaves me stuck for main beam. Which units did you go for? What is the legality of retrofitting projectors as won't they technically need to meet some sort of standards (I'm aware of the legalities of non standard HIDs).

As I understand it most bi-xenon lights work on a motorised flap which covers half of the beam? Is that right?

My car has a hi-low xenon kit in it so it does main and dipped beam.

I don't realy know how I am going to make main and dipped beam work, potentially by using a second set of projectors in the smaller driving lights and angling them up?

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:lol: Sensationalist much.

Don't see any reason for it to be unsafe, have happily driven cars on (proper) tracks with the same setup before. Edit: Just realised it only fits on one of the headrest uprights - would prefer it to be contacting both so there's no way it can 'pivot' and head towards your neck, but it'll be reet for Curby, you won't crash!

Dan - your post with the photos was interesting until the bit where you said you cleaned a lens or something :P

Hahahah screw you!! :P I might have to take you up on the mates rates corner weighting at some point Adam! Seeing as you actually know what you're doing!

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As I understand it most bi-xenon lights work on a motorised flap which covers half of the beam? Is that right?

My car has a hi-low xenon kit in it so it does main and dipped beam.

I don't realy know how I am going to make main and dipped beam work, potentially by using a second set of projectors in the smaller driving lights and angling them up?

Yes that is correct for the hi-lo projectors (solenoid rather than motor though). A hi-lo xenon kit is different in that the bulb has a cover that extends for high beam, some of them had a second halogen tube on them instead but that's the way older kits. We have the H4 Hi-los with moving cover on our tractors, they are amazingly bright but glare monstrously for oncoming traffic, fortunately we don't really do on road stuff at night so it's not really an issue.

If you have a HI-LO projector, you only need the 1 bulb, your main beam wire will go to the solenoid on the projector to open the flap and therefore let the full bulb output through. I would also rig up your fogs/driving lights for main beam too, every little helps!

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