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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Seems particularly crude, but would work in theory just without being particularly well optimised? I'd imagine there'd be rich/lean spots all through the rev range as I'm assuming there's no way to map the thing as such!

The chaps are claiming bhp increasing from 125bhp to 150-200bhp with no reliability issues so far. No way to map, it's a mechanical injection system!

Is it fi or carb? Plenty of turbo bikes out there with nothing more than a turbo, plenum and jetting to suit :)

If the bottom end is man enough and the compression low enough / ignition controllable enough to stop detonation then no reason why it shouldn't work.

As above it is mechanical injection, the engines are pretty robust so they should be ok with low boost but like Luke said it must be fairly crude :(

I have built my version of an AAV (Auxilliary Air Valve-gives the engine unmetered air to increase engine idle speed when cold), it bench tests fine so now we shall see how well it works in real life... If it is all good then the next step is to build it all into one unit with the valve so that it is all tidy, for now it has long wires so that I can access the board and tweak the temperature it responds to.
DSC_0426_zpsmqjgjqdc.jpg
DSC_0428_zpsqwqcgevm.jpg
Just need an excuse to take the car out to test it...
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As above it is mechanical injection, the engines are pretty robust so they should be ok with low boost but like Luke said it must be fairly crude :(

I guess you can alter the fuelling by some method? I'm not familiar with mechanical injection methods, are you able to adjust the various circuits like you with a carb? If it's just a cas of turning the fuelling up across the board I guess it's going to be running rich as hell on idle once you have it right on the midrange/top end. As I said there are thousands of people who have bunged turbos on air cooled suzuki gsx/gsxr motors for the last 30 years or so all with carbs without any issue; the difference is you do have a lot of control over the fuelling with a carb.

Off the top of my head the bike set ups (IL4) are either blow through with the turbo feeding a 1 into 4 plenum mounted to the carbs or draw through with the turbo sucking through a single massive carb feeding all four pots. I can't remember exaclty which is better but I believe one gives more turbo lag.

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Started the making of my dash cam rig for the track day. It's consisting of one of these:

And two of these:

I'm then going to get a pole from B and Q or homebase and drill four holes in it and get the U clamps around the headrest poles :D

A bodge of one of these then?

camkit.jpg

I like it!

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I have both wheels, and tires.

10981439_1599250666956775_84806331636361

I've finally got the right grille.

10860847_1599250963623412_79245255267954

Get the wheels on, jack it up and it'll be good. *And fit a new front badge, because the current one isn't right and doesn't fit so it's just pushed on...

10891435_1599254253623083_31575308651866

Car drove perfectly on the way home, solid 1bar of boost everywhere, no issues changing gear woo. It's not the fastest car in the world ever, but it's a good place to start making one.

Edited by Pashley26
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That's a pre '88 7 slat grille, you need a post '88 5 slat to be the right grille :P

/pedant

Copy and paste here...

Hi guys :thumbup:
Here's one for you that's really odd.
I bought a grille off eBay.
$_57.JPG
I also bought a genuine VW badge for the middle of it.
However.
The clips in the centre are 180*/upside down to what the genuine VW badge is, and what every other grille I can find online is.
cp027746-genuine-vw-jetta-golf-gti-grill
So on all the other grilles the clips are an upside down Y formation, but this grille had the clips in a Y formation.
What's that all about? I can't find a badge for it anywhere.
Anybody else come across this? Is there a change-over year or a subtle spec difference which has caused this mishap?
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I guess you can alter the fuelling by some method? I'm not familiar with mechanical injection methods, are you able to adjust the various circuits like you with a carb? If it's just a cas of turning the fuelling up across the board I guess it's going to be running rich as hell on idle once you have it right on the midrange/top end. As I said there are thousands of people who have bunged turbos on air cooled suzuki gsx/gsxr motors for the last 30 years or so all with carbs without any issue; the difference is you do have a lot of control over the fuelling with a carb.

Off the top of my head the bike set ups (IL4) are either blow through with the turbo feeding a 1 into 4 plenum mounted to the carbs or draw through with the turbo sucking through a single massive carb feeding all four pots. I can't remember exaclty which is better but I believe one gives more turbo lag.

What was the hayabusa turbo performance bike magazine built? The hole shot racing white one? That had near on 600bhp and did 250mph

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well, little update regarding car

at the moment I am not rich, let me put it this way, as the competition and applying to uni is expensive.

But I could sort out with my parents, that I will buy the Corsa (a.k.a. "Ferrari") from them for £400 in may, and I can insure it on my name from April (£40 per month, okay at 20 yo with no NCB)

I am happy about it, as I know it is nothing special , but it is a car that I know, cheap enough, parts are cheap and easy to find, it is simple so I might be able to fix some simple stuff as well

cannot wait to insure and buy it :) (and to spend shitloads on it)

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So I'm getting polybushes and full geo+alignment before the track day and then after that I'm getting new wheels and tyres. My dad thinks if I drop from 17/215 F and 17/235 R to 16/205 F and 16/225 R but keep the same diameter because of higher profile tyres It'll affect my geo in terms of camber etc. is he wrong or is there some logic?

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Just had the Micra up on the stands and steam cleaned all the arches. So much welding to be done on both rear inner arches that's been hidden by year's of road grime and mud :(

Thankfully the fronts are all good and the rest of the car has a clean bill of health.

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So I'm getting polybushes and full geo+alignment before the track day and then after that I'm getting new wheels and tyres. My dad thinks if I drop from 17/215 F and 17/235 R to 16/205 F and 16/225 R but keep the same diameter because of higher profile tyres It'll affect my geo in terms of camber etc. is he wrong or is there some logic?

All wasted if you don't pay for your track day slot.. ;)

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So I'm getting polybushes and full geo+alignment before the track day and then after that I'm getting new wheels and tyres. My dad thinks if I drop from 17/215 F and 17/235 R to 16/205 F and 16/225 R but keep the same diameter because of higher profile tyres It'll affect my geo in terms of camber etc. is he wrong or is there some logic?

yes and no. with higher profile tyres, you'll benefit from more camber as the tyre will roll more.

But considering your only dropping a size, i doubt it'll make a notisable difference

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had hell of a mixed day with the car today. Got up silly early, and recieved the full rath of a hail storm, ending up in this:

post-36867-0-52695700-1424540926_thumb.j

Spun it, ended up backwards up a grass verge. pulled over in the nearest lay-by, either got a puncture or pulled the tyre of the rim. at that point, thought i better get some decent wheels for it. :bow:

Trip to scrap yard, got the correct airbag module for it. disconnected the battery, hoped for the best and plugged it in.

No explosions, and after ages f**king around with 10mm nuts under the dash, the airbag light is finally out!!!

post-36867-0-17294900-1424541076_thumb.j

got some new wheels for it (2nd hand) 18's momo's. they could do with a refurb as the paint has pealed off, but feel alot better on the road than the standard steels....

post-36867-0-50323900-1424541311_thumb.j

the front wheels sit perfectly in the arches. need some centering plates for the rear and raising slightly to get them sitting right, but getting there!

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