Luke Rainbird Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 The S3/TT Quattro 3" DP/Decats hang low and off to one side a little to clear the propshaft which obviously the 2wd setup doesn't have. Bit of a ballache really, but tempting given they're so dirty cheap (can get one for £120 delivered). Will keep an eye out for a used system I think - if nothing comes up before I get too impatient I'll look at grabbing a cheap DP and building the rest of a system myself perhaps. Edit: You can see how the prop sits off to one side of the tunnel in this shot. Exhaust obviously needs clear this on 4wd, whereas on the 2wd it has the whole tunnel in which to sit and be tucked out the way a little more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 I took a ride in a Corsa VXR Nurburgring the other day, and it felt SO planted much much more so than my 106 GTi- is this likely to be down to completely rigid bushes? Obviously a load of other things come into it too, but seems like they are game changers. I've never looked at mine, or even know what's in there. Sounds by the feedback on here that changing them to something stiffer would make the world of difference. [in before 'it's the French's fault'] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 I'd imagine it was down to far more than just bushes. Presumably the VXR is a fair bit newer than an old 106 and as a result will have a more modern, refined suspension setup for one. Bushes are a (relatively) small tweak that can make a fair difference, but fairly late in the game after the larger components. It's like kitting out a £100 bike with Ti bolts and expecting it to be <8kg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 I'd imagine it was down to far more than just bushes. Presumably the VXR is a fair bit newer than an old 106 and as a result will have a more modern, refined suspension setup for one. Bushes are a (relatively) small tweak that can make a fair difference, but fairly late in the game after the larger components. It's like kitting out a £100 bike with Ti bolts and expecting it to be <8kg. Thanks for the reply, the VXR has 800 miles on it - so it's spanking. I'm looking to not fully track ready my car but to give it much more poke and improve its handling, so I'm forming a list of things I need to do/buy (any advice on what will make the biggest difference would be appreciated here). Main focus to be an aggressive cam, remap, lowered/stiffened and probably bucket style seats. [i'm a noob at this, don't kill me] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 Get yourself on a few 106/Saxo forums, there'll be a world of info/guides about. This may also help (though no guarantee as I've not looked through properly!) http://www.peugeotperformance.net/tuning/tuning.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 14, 2015 Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 the blue aux is for steering wheel controls, fitted them to my astra several months back Wired remote, like I said surely you can pick up a piece of 2mm plate for less than £40? Shame there are so many perfectly good roadsigns on sketchy mounts around the place... This, who the hell is paying £40 for a sheet of steel worth about £3?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) Wired remote, like I said This, who the hell is paying £40 for a sheet of steel worth about £3?!It isn't steel, it's aluminum. It's already cut to size, reasonably well finished and presented and is also pre drilled. I averagely earn £30 an hour. Spending two hours cutting, drilling, refinishing and f**k arsing around with a piece of metal to make it look as presentable as that I can just buy for £40 isn't really my cup of tea. When I could be spending that time selling cars. Edited February 15, 2015 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Sorry, ali worth £5* Remove sunroof > draw around sunroof onto sheet > apply tin snips to sheet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Does the sunroof actually leak? Surely a sunroof looks 100x better than a piece of alloy riveted over the hole regardless of how it's acquired. Your car's not a racing car: it'll look silly for next to no advantage. If you're really worried about weight then tiger-seal some poly-carbonate into the hole. It'll look half sensible on a road car, still cost sod-all and save just as much weight. Good job on the purchase by the way, I'm looking forward to seeing it sometime. I often wish I'd started with a mk2, would have made my life a lot easier. Then again I quite enjoy taking the awkward path. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've seen sieves hold water better than this roof does haha! It's not the original roof, it's a super 90's Webasto tilting jobbie with a mirrored chrome tint on the glass. It looks horrible. And because it is a "custom" roof it also had a "custom" head lining, which apparently just snapped in half one day and was put in the bin So my headlining options are non existent, unless I remove all of this roof and the framework beneath it and attach a non sunroof headlining to the original mounting points which are still there. It won't ever be a show car, so from that point of view it doesn't have to look faultless. But I'm at a bit if a loss what to do with it and how to rectify the situation. One of my thoughts was removing the roof, tracing around the glass and bonding something in its place, which is I think what you and Rich are suggesting too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Paint the back of the glass body colour. Seal the entire thing up with lots of sealer. Put in a standard headlining to cover it up inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Pretty much what Danny said. People that hide sunroofs with patches or whatever just look dogshit. I liked Robins idea of remove it all then just bond in some Polycarbonate, that'd look baller, shed weight and not look like a pigs ear. Plus I love sunroofs, my first mini and polo had sunroofs and I miss them loads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Robin and I just had a chat, I've got a plan Robin suggested buying a sheet of lexan, using the old glass as a template and a router around the edges to make it flush fit. Paint the lexan body colour and bond it in place. The current roof isn't really held in by any more than bonding and three aluminum support plates which are riveted to the inside of the shell and simply butted up to the roof mechanism. Removing it should be easy, hopefully it will be a fairly straight forward job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Like it, paint a black lip about 1/2" thick around the edge, it'll look abit more 'proper' and less like I could kick it in and steal your car 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) What about an epic roof scoop? Surely thats the perfect solution Edited February 15, 2015 by CurtisRider 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 You could remove the lot and cut the lexan a few mm smaller than the hole and fit it with a rubber seal. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 One lexan slice the size of the glass to fit and look snug with a seal, another slightly larger to sit beneath and bond to the inner skin of the roof and hold it all together. Headlining hides it all from the inside and looks legit externally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Got a load of 195/50/15 Federal RSR595 and Nankang NS2R track tyres to shift, all still have enough tread to be road legal. Will be somewhere around £15-30 each depending on how many you have, if you want them posting, exactly how much tread is left, etc. If anyone would like more details give us a shout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 (edited) I'll have a set of 595's and the NS2's. Edited February 15, 2015 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyseemonkeydo Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I honestly thought you were joking when you linked to that ally sheet listing... As someone who takes proper care of their cars and mentioned a carbon reason I assumed the thought of riveting a sorry piece of ally in place would never cross your mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I'll have a set of 595's and the NS2's.Sweet. Here's what I have and what I'm after inc postage. Obviously cheaper for 2 sets due to shipping cost and a deal such as the Nankangs and set 1 and 2 of the Feds for £250. 4x Nankang NS2Rs, 120 treadwear (soft), £140 (~£70 each new with about 6mm of tread). Tread depths (in mm, starting left to right on the photo, left shoulder at 75% width, centre, right shoulder at 75% width): 3.5 - 4 - 2.5, 2.5 - 4 - 3.5, 3.5 - 4.5 - 2.5, 2 - 4.5 - 3.5. 4x Federal RSR-585s (Set 1), £130 (~£65 each new with about 6mm of tread). Tread depths: 3.5 - 4.5 - 5, 3 - 4.5 - 4, 3 - 4 - 4, 3.5 - 4 - 4. 2x Federal RSR-585s (Set 2), £40 (or can do them as a deal if you have any of the others) Tread depths: 2.5 - 3.5 - 3, 2.5 - 3.5 - 3 4x Federal RSR-585s (Set 3), £100. Tread depths: 4.5 - 4 - 3, 3.5 - 3.5 - 2.5, 3 - 4 - 3.5, 3 - 3 - 2.5. Someone else has said he'll have 2 sets but not which ones exactly and hasn't replied after I sent pics, tread details and prices an hour or so ago. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I'll take the NS2's. PM me your Paypal. Xxx Blatant copy and paste. Well, on the subject of that... 18 minutes to change the thermostat, from opening the bonnet to putting the lid back on the expansion tank! That's a record I'm sure of it. There was one slight thing concerning me, there was very little flow back to the expansion tank. So I quickly grabbed the hose and washed a load of shit through from the bottom of the rad. All up and running, lovely return flow and sounding very healthy. Engine is still over cooled, it gets up to would would be about 70* on the gauge, and the vents come out warm. But it never gets up to 90. I've done 165 miles in it now. I also remved the heater fan and lubricated it. And fixed a leak in the power steering and ran some conditioner though the system. Then I put the car on full lock and soaked the coilovers in plus gas. The sun roof is really upsetting me now, I've just had enough of looking at it. It appears to be just bonded in, then there are little wedges riveted into the shell pushing the roof up. They aren't actually attached to it, just butted up against it. Very odd. God it looks shit. A very clever friend of mine has come up with a fantastic idea, which I'll be doing. Buying a sheet of black lexan, remove the sunroof and trace 10mm round the outside of it onto the lexan, then using the glass roof as a template run a router around the outside of the glass onto the lexan, paint the lexan body colour and then bond it in with tiger seal. Should give a flush and fairly nice looking result without costing more than £50 and a few hours labour. Then I can just buy a non-sunroof head lining and have the inside looking OEM. We all know I wouldn't go long without cleaning it... The paint work really isn't that bad, it really needs a thorough machine polish. I went over it by hand today with a renovator and a glaze, but I really need to spend a day doing it properly. And now I'm on the sofa with the monster drinking beer watching western movies on TCM. And if I play my cards right I may have just bought a load of track tires 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Done, cheers dude. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 15, 2015 Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 I've just emailed the seller I bought the Parada Spec 2's off seeing if I can cancel the order, if I can I'll buy a set of 595's as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 that milestone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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