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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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http://www.pistonheads.com/GASSING/topic.asp?h=0&f=23&t=1297451&nmt=07+VW+Passat+stuck+parking+brake

Sounds like it could be a faulty switch, a buggered caliper or a sticky motor...

Something to try... "Rare, great advice from the stealer to unstick it, was to stand very hard on the footbrake, with engine running (I guess for additional servo assist) and try to disengage handbrake. It worked !"

Cool Ads, cheers, ill try this. (Y)

Those three things did come to mind at the time. Yayee, I'm not a complete noob :D

Just been reading similar stuff on assorted forums. One or two people also seem to have had an issue with unsealed wiring causing a problem and needing replacement - unlikely but would be far cheaper if so!

Another thing ive been told to try is disconnecting the battery for a few minutes and giving it a go again? Kinda sounds like, "is it even plugged in" kind of advice but ill try anything once - but I wont do that. Ba dum...

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Strange - a couple of times they've been the only ones who'd provide sensible quotes for me! Guess you just have to shop around...

They've been consistently £100 or so cheaper than any highstreet compare type site, but still nowhere near any other specialist. I think last year I was with Greenlight (classic via Flux iirc) for a shade under £300 all mods declared on the Audi.

The best was that Nato Green Audi I had, insurance was like £160 on that through Classicline :D

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Car noob back in here for help/advice please boys.

I was sat at a set of lights this morning and the parking brake fault light came on. I tried to pull away but the parking brake wouldnt release. Its one of the push button types. I hadnt pressed the button on, it just locked up (felt like just on the one side) So I then pressed the button and tried to pull away like normal hoping that would clear things. It Didnt. Restarted the car etc. Still wouldnt release.

Car is a VW Passat.

It was the caliper on my mates one.

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So its looking like £9 for a button.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yiding-Electronic-Handbrake-Parking-Button/dp/B00P2C9ZP2/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423668003&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=VW+passat+push+button+hand+brake

And/or £200 for one caliper. Looks like the motor and caliper is one unit?

https://www.autopartsuk.com/BRKH-HY/Volkswagen/Passat/all/1.9/2007/Diesel/CA2883/Brake%20Caliper

Might I as well just change both calipers at the same time, going on the rule of, once ones gone the other wont be far behind?

Also, change the button even if its not broken, just because its old, and pretty cheap anyway?

f**k it - Might as well to the f**king timing belt while I'm at it eh. Can you buy those on Amazon?

Edited by Ross McArthur
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Strange - a couple of times they've been the only ones who'd provide sensible quotes for me! Guess you just have to shop around...

Seems real strange that there can be so much variation for different people. Neither Brentacre or Greenlight could give me a decent quote on a slow car. My best was via Chris Knott.

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So its looking like £9 for a button.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Yiding-Electronic-Handbrake-Parking-Button/dp/B00P2C9ZP2/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1423668003&sr=1-1-fkmr3&keywords=VW+passat+push+button+hand+brake

And/or £200 for one caliper. Looks like the motor and caliper is one unit?

https://www.autopartsuk.com/BRKH-HY/Volkswagen/Passat/all/1.9/2007/Diesel/CA2883/Brake%20Caliper

Might I as well just change both calipers at the same time, going on the rule of, once ones gone the other wont be far behind?

Also, change the button even if its not broken, just because its old, and pretty cheap anyway?

f**k it - Might as well to the f**king timing belt while I'm at it eh. Can you buy those on Amazon?

I'd go button first, then caliper , don't buy 2 just get 1 , other might last year's, or break in a few days

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Right.

This morning a 1.8t Mk2 came up on Club GTI.

6 people have said they WILL buy it, the guys told them I get first refusal because I was the first to get dibs on it and make an enquiry.

10402591_10152170512589087_7085975142537

10409265_10152151424464087_7510586928731

1558424_10151937239294087_392123973_n.jp

Bad bits.

423563_10150555176004087_1769298042_n.jp

417392_10150575802439087_737120769_n.jpg

Missing passenger door trim.

418468_10150575803479087_1191090484_n.jp

This was the advert -

New disc brakes drilled and vented never been abused

Upgraded clutch from Sach para 400hp
Flywheel balanced and lightened
440cc injectors
Big maf
Ko4
fmic 2.5"
Inlet pipes 2,5"
Exhaust 3"
Dualcore radiator aluminium with 2xfans
Straight through exhaust.. lovely car I have driven this car it's very nice[

Hi guys sorry for the delayed reply wasn't on the Group yet, thanks Ian Howarth the car has MOT till November 2015 it passed with only 2 advisorys being slight vibration on exhaust and Sun Strip being to big , mileage on the clock is 217000 but bought engine with 68000 from a mk4 golf 1.8t 20v, conversion has been done by myself about 1,5 years ago and engine has done about 10000 extra so around 78000 now, the car should be around 230-240 bhp needs a remap and rolling road to be more precise with figures, is boosting 1bar on everygear without dropping a bit ,it just holds boost ,looking for at least £1500 car was a kr 16v and still is on V5 up to u if u wanna change it feel free to come and see the car

It's £1500!!!!

I need to buy it.

​Problem is, I've just balance transferred £2500 which I won't get until tomorrow. And don't have the £1500 until tomorrow. But I need to pay for it tonight and take it or the guys got a line of people prepared to buy it.

So I'm going to go to London, look at it...And wing it.

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I need some help, please!

When I release the clutch pedal I can year a single clunk noise somewhere at the bottom of the engine bay on the passengers side.

If I release the pedal slowly then its less noticeable.

If the engine is off then there is no noise at all.

I can reproduce the sound every time by pitting the car in neutral and pressing the clutch then releasing quickly.

I can feel the clunk through the pedal.

Searching the web seems to bring up this problem a lot but with no real answers!

Edited by David
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So I've been pondering on more poverty changes to my car and lowering is one of them. The back is easy (well, cheap at least) as it's just a case of changing the spline position on the rear arms. The front requires either shorter springs or coilovers. I currently have 1 coil chopped off my standard springs, it's fine but I'd like to fine tune the ride height+ coilovers are cool points.

I have 2 spare bodies, 2 Golf MK4 front coilovers (sans dampers as they are shot) and a welder.

Full height

2015-02-11%2017.46.03_zpsrjjxc1va.jpg

Lowered height

2015-02-11%2017.42.33_zpsawwpykya.jpg

If I cut my spare 924 struts and welded the threaded section of the Golf struts to them, I could quite easily avoid buying sleeves (which would not fit nicely as the 924 struts have a bulge at the top) and create some budget coilovers. The top mount fits to the top spring plate nicely and that lowers the overall assembly by about an inch which is what my current ride height is lowered by. This should mean I have a nice range of suspension height to choose from. Is there anything wrong with doing it this way? Should I also sleeve the welded section afterwards? The bodies both have similar sized tubing (the Golf one looks to be slightly larger in diameter but I don't have my calipers here to give an exact measurement).

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