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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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There is literally more difference in the foliage in your garden than anything on your car, all I can see is the wheels are a different colour, but there again it could just be that it's dusk in the last picture :lol:

Edit - just spotted aero wipers, that's gotta be worth a bonus point!

Arch gap at the front?

Headlights are less hazed but I wouldn't have expected you to get that, YOU SUCK AT THIS GAME :P

Ooooh there's a splitter on there too just realised. I suck at my own game :(

To be fair I didn't expect a list of what's different, more of "It looks better than standard"

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For anyone who's curious, Dan has courteously reduced the number of before and after photos posted on TF when compared to what he's posted on ClioSport.net.

Looking good though Daniel-san. Thoughts on the B14s?

Haha didn't want to upset Sir Jolfa now ;)

Cheers though dude, yeah i'm absolutely loving them. Going over speedbumps just feels like i'm in a standard car. Not crashy one bit. Feels great going into corners too now :) Sadly haven't been able to really press on though due to the weather. PS3's are gash under 5 degrees.

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My entire day has reloved around this:

(sorry for the shit picture, camera flash is crap)

post-36867-0-00085000-1419196488_thumb.j

Removing the front bumper, radiator, intercooler, timing belt, injection pump, ect just to replace a £2 core plug :blink:

Good news is its runs, well with a jump start (battery is f**ked). Hopefully MOT tomorrow, already have a buyer for it :dance:

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New lift pump and fuel filter coming in today for the Landy, success.

I'm also getting itchy feet about the car in the revolving spot having seen what decent Capris are selling for now - serious levels of want/ 'hey I could totally do that' for an R32 Skyline or something in the not too distant future.

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I'm trying to get my head around engine swap stuff and i'm getting a little confused. When people run adaptor plates that sandwich between the bell housing and engine, what do they do to compensate for the input shaft being 10mm further away from the engine? I'm trying to figure out the best way to make an adaptor for the 1.8t conversion, but there's important things like this that i'm not entirely sure about and don't appear to be well documented.

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I'm trying to get my head around engine swap stuff and i'm getting a little confused. When people run adaptor plates that sandwich between the bell housing and engine, what do they do to compensate for the input shaft being 10mm further away from the engine? I'm trying to figure out the best way to make an adaptor for the 1.8t conversion, but there's important things like this that i'm not entirely sure about and don't appear to be well documented.

I've always wondered that, only thing I ever really thought was there'd be enough room on the shaft and you'd fit a 10mm longer push rod in the slave cylinder to make up the difference.

Don't 924 Turbo bell housings fit VAG lumps anyway? I know they definitely fit the 5 pot 20vt's (same as mine), might be a better option?

Edited by Jolfa
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Yeah I can't quite figure it out :( Theres not much shaft going into the spigot bearing as it is, so moving it out by 10mm ish is surely a bad idea! I guess it depends on the housing you are using and how it sits in the previous engine

The 924 2.0 engine shares the same pattern as the 5 cylinder but i've been struggling to find one for a good price since I got the car (a year ago) which is why I want to go 1.8T as they are cheap and have decent enough power, obviously a 5 cylinder would be great as the noise is significantly more appealing! I did also consider the Saab 2.3T, annoyingly I missed a complete car for £100 recently as my girlfriend was being a douche. Ideally I want something about 2.0 (trying to avoid big/heavy engines), turbo and cheap, any suggestions welcomed! The desire to fit a diesel has been strong recently just because it's kind of the anti of what that car should have

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Well with being on holiday and busy with work not much had been happening with the car for the past few weeks. At the weekend though i got all the cage in and most of it welded up. Finishing it tomorrow after work then all get it home and begin to get her tidied up. After not being turned over for a gd 5 weeks or so had to use some jump leads but it ticked over no problem after that.

Got a new rear light seal delivered today stop water leaking into the boot. Asked santa aka as the misus for some buddyclub seat rails so i can get in a 6 point harness bucket seat and lose a bit more weight. Do plan on getting it weighed but id say no more than 1000kg with cage in. Would love to get it down to low 900s.

anyone ever gone the route of fitting a heated front window? With mines being cracked and i want to rip all the heating matrix out its something im defs going to look more into.

With dash being off i should be able to sort out my guage issue and temp issue also guy off the itr forum pointed me in the right direction of where all the wires go in the converstion box for thw s2000 dash after trying to find it for weeks.

Looks like am going to have to machine up a new steering colum since mines no longer fits with the cage. And call up the insurance to declare the cage certinaly not looking forward to that ha.

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Couple of little bits arrived today.

Magnetic sump plug for when I get a chance to change the oil. If there's any nasty surprises in the old then this should help with getting them out:

20141222_163039_zps29a6c17e.jpg

New pins for the parcel shelf to mount to:

20141222_163047_zps3577f630.jpg

Teardrop mirrors. Bundled in a pass-the-parcel of alternating layers of bubblewrap and clingfilm. Quite entertaining :P

20141222_163053_zps4957232e.jpg

20141222_163221_zpscfa939d0.jpg

Forgot to grab a photo, but they're in really decent shape. Bit of a shame really since I'll be respraying the covers black :P

Need to get to the car over the next few days so will pop the new pins in then, as well as getting the n249 bypass sorted.

Hopefully found a home for the Golf too, so fingers crossed that works out and I can get to using this as the daily in the next couple of weeks..

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Yep they're all new mate thanks though buddy! Got a reply on cs and a mechanic says

"That's defo the sound of your spring twanging as you turn the suspension, because the top and bottom cups don't have a slot or stop to sit in the cup are moving and picking up on the spring, like I said mine did this only for a day or after I've had it in the air, I'd say if your top bearing is nice and free and there is no way that you have installed them wrong then apply some copper grease onto both upper and lower spring seats to allow it to move without picking up.. "

Sounds like that's tomorrow's job then! Is this fairly common with coilovers does anyone know?

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Yeah I can't quite figure it out :( Theres not much shaft going into the spigot bearing as it is, so moving it out by 10mm ish is surely a bad idea! I guess it depends on the housing you are using and how it sits in the previous engine

The 924 2.0 engine shares the same pattern as the 5 cylinder but i've been struggling to find one for a good price since I got the car (a year ago) which is why I want to go 1.8T as they are cheap and have decent enough power, obviously a 5 cylinder would be great as the noise is significantly more appealing! I did also consider the Saab 2.3T, annoyingly I missed a complete car for £100 recently as my girlfriend was being a douche. Ideally I want something about 2.0 (trying to avoid big/heavy engines), turbo and cheap, any suggestions welcomed! The desire to fit a diesel has been strong recently just because it's kind of the anti of what that car should have

The 1.8t is the clear choice, only other thing I could think to fit that criteria would be a CA18 Nissan engine, which is one of the worst engines ever made...

Yep they're all new mate thanks though buddy! Got a reply on cs and a mechanic says

"That's defo the sound of your spring twanging as you turn the suspension, because the top and bottom cups don't have a slot or stop to sit in the cup are moving and picking up on the spring, like I said mine did this only for a day or after I've had it in the air, I'd say if your top bearing is nice and free and there is no way that you have installed them wrong then apply some copper grease onto both upper and lower spring seats to allow it to move without picking up.. "

Sounds like that's tomorrow's job then! Is this fairly common with coilovers does anyone know?

I've had plenty sets of suspension do this, usually cut/lowered springs, never bothered me enough to sort it though :P

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Yep they're all new mate thanks though buddy! Got a reply on cs and a mechanic says

"That's defo the sound of your spring twanging as you turn the suspension, because the top and bottom cups don't have a slot or stop to sit in the cup are moving and picking up on the spring, like I said mine did this only for a day or after I've had it in the air, I'd say if your top bearing is nice and free and there is no way that you have installed them wrong then apply some copper grease onto both upper and lower spring seats to allow it to move without picking up.. "

Sounds like that's tomorrow's job then! Is this fairly common with coilovers does anyone know?

It's probably because you've got pillow-ball top mounts. Sadly, on their own pillow-balls aren't really free moving enough for the job as top mounts, despite being hugely common, they're not ideal for the job. The ideal is to also use a thrust bearing like cars do from the factory, so the pillow-ball only deals with angular changes and the thrust bearing does the rotation from steering. I've done this on mine using an A3/Leon/Mk4 golf top-mount bearing (about £4 off eBay) under the pillow-ball top mounts. (without power steering it was kind of important to keep it free moving) The steering feels great but the down-side is that they've lost me about 10 to 15mm of travel, which isn't great when combined with the top mounts them selves loosing me ~5 to 10 and my car being fairly low. If you've got plenty of travel then I'd definitely say it's worth throwing some of these A3 bearings on there. I'll get some photos of how mine all goes together next time I have a strut off (probably won't be long, I need that travel back.)

Paul, with adapter plates it surely depends on the engine/box/flywheel combination. Sometimes the length can work out alright just through luck/research, but I've seen spacers between the flywheel and engine before to account for differences (although I don't like the idea of that much myself.) I thought that with the 924 set-up you tended to use the engine's matching bell-housing and then put an adapter between that and the torque-tube rather than messing around with bell-housings? In which case, you just have to make sure that the new bell-housing + adapter is the same length as the old bell-housing was. It also means you've already got mounts for a starter that will mesh with the 1.8t's flywheel properly. Do 924's run a spigot bearing on the input/prop shaft?

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I have a weird problem. Sometimes when I go from 3rd to 5th there is some weird resistance, kinda like the one for reverse, does anyone know if this is the way its mean to be or is the gearbox on the way out?

Its a bmw e46 330xi from 02. My dad has worked as a mechanic for over 20 years but he mainly worked on old americans but he thinks its a feature since he says my car is supposed to be "sporty" its there to stop you getting 5th when you want 3rd, but since it resists me getting 5th from 3rd I get the feeling something is wrong.

Hope some of what I said makes sense if you need more info let me know and I will try to find it!

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