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MadManMike

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Can anyone confirm why these coilovers have around 10 inches of thread that the adjustable cups spin on yet the range of height adjustment is 20mm?

I remember someone asking a question a while back, could have been you Trials owns? about the ratios of how much you adjust the coilover to how much it lowers the car and you got an answer insinuating you were stupid as "adjusting it 5mm drops the car 5mm" or something like that but clearly not?

I've never had coilovers before so not sure.. Anyone confirm ??

yeah, that was me.

i raised the front of the passat 10mm on the coilovers, which was about what it went up by. doesn't bash on speed bumps now, made hell of a difference!

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Cheers on the advice chaps, maybe i'm just over worrying! The sooner I can stop spending on the Astra the sooner I can get playing with 1.8T stuff :)

finally found these. Wasn't even marked as an advsary, the bloke just made a comment of 'they might need replacing some time in the near future.

Look at the pads on the right :blink:

post-36867-0-05894900-1418079097_thumb.j

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Can anyone confirm why these coilovers have around 10 inches of thread that the adjustable cups spin on yet the range of height adjustment is 20mm?

I remember someone asking a question a while back, could have been you Trials owns? about the ratios of how much you adjust the coilover to how much it lowers the car and you got an answer insinuating you were stupid as "adjusting it 5mm drops the car 5mm" or something like that but clearly not?

I've never had coilovers before so not sure.. Anyone confirm ??

They'll be 1:1 ratio as they mount directly to the hub, so there's no leverage on them (well, very minimal due to the inclination of the strut, but that's really negligible) So 10mm thread movement will move the ride height 10mm. As the others have said they give you a possible range of movement greater than the recommended range. It'll also be to allow for the use of different springs, as stiffer springs will need the adjusters to be set lower for the same ride height, as they'll sag less from the cars weight. Softer springs will often need to be longer, as they tend to have more coils and therefore be be longer when fully compressed, so to avoid them going coil bound they need the adjusters lower to give more space, and a longer spring's used to bring the ride height back up. So basically, the reason they've given you more adjustment than they recommend using's just future-proofing.

Robin: That's crap dude - Will you be able to sort it out soon?

Hopefully. Luckily I don't need it to get to work now I've moved as I cycle in. Trouble is I don't really want to drive it far as it is and I'm in quite a nice quiet area now; I'm not sure how the neighbors will react to me getting a grinder and welder out on the drive! Might just have to apologise in advance and warn them of it, they're pretty nice on the whole and it's not that nice and quiet around here. Should be a relatively easy fix, it's a clean fracture and I'll probably extend a near by double skinned bit to bridge over the weld and take the stress off it a bit, along with adding a load of cross bracing that I've been planning to for ages it should end up quite a bit stronger than before. I'll hopefully have it sorted before christmas.

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That's crazy so technically they have a ridiculous range of movement! Now to work out what the drop is at their standard level what I got them delivered at :P

I stuck my coilovers on as they came and they're far to low, not even sure if the preload on the springs is even to be honest. Gunna take it to WIM to get them sorted properly

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Hmm I can't have them too low anyway as my driveway is a b*****d up at the top.

Completely unrelated but can anyone recommend me a work lamp for when I'm doing stuff over winter?

Something like this.http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/manufacturers/silverline_tools_and_products/torches_and_lighting/halogen_500_watt_work_light_240_volt_613275_P27986.html?gclid=CjwKEAiA2JqkBRDshIOY_9eMghkSJABvNd1QlsoBT8eEBJyyJUjfN7ndcjK_8_AP_Xipo2VzGJOepRoCLMjw_wcB

Then price is perfect but ideally I'd want something that someone can recommend not the first one that I found on Google! Cheers

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I've used those halogen style lamps before Dan, they're cheap, but the bulbs go quite easily if you knock it with you foot, ect.

They also produce alot of heat. That site does re-chargeable LED ones for £30, something like this?

http://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/tools/mechanical_and_auto/faithfull_freedom_rechargable_liion_cordless_led_work_light_P26698.html

Edited by MartMini
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Dan, just measure the distance from the floor to the wheel-arch with your current set-up, bolt the coilovers on, re-measure the arch height and adjust them accordingly. Take it for a spin to let them settle and re-measure it again, then adjust it if necessary. Should be pretty quick and easy with them being 1:1 so you'll know how much to adjust them each time. They're very unlikely to be set right straight from the box, especially with you having aftermarket top mounts.

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Cheers guys. Bit of an update

I went to Homebase and spent possibly the best £15 I have all year, on a 400w work lamp. So so good as due to it being such a high wattage bulb it gives off a lot of heat too so there I was at 10pm tonight working on my car in just a T-shirt (had trousers on though lol) haha Really helped me do this job.
Here is the light in all its glory. Showing up lots of swirls up close not on the pic :( Can't wait to correct the paintwork when the better weather comes !
Then started removing the associated parts. Removing clio struts is possibly the easiest thing in the world. Undo the top three bolts (pure solid mounts uses three allen key bolts to hold it in), the undo the two 21mm nuts on the hub, knock the bolts out of the hub and it's off.
I then removed the topmounts and fitted them to the new coilovers.
All on :)
After pic! More pics to come when the spacers arrive and it's settled and i've adjusted it as to how I want it :D
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