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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Just from talking to the right people really. I was just chatting away to them about racing and how it must be a whole different ball game from just track days and that I was quite new to it all and how did they get into racing.

"Well we just did track days then started paying to enter events when we got our license.

We're doing ROR and need a driver on Sunday, it's a £2000 entry of you fancy it?"

Haha.

Back pedal back pedal back pedal, explain just quite how new to it I am, explain I don't have an ARDS license let alone ever had a tuition session.

That's the problem with hanging out with Prawns friends; they're all really "proper."

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I like K-Jet too, very little to go wrong, vacuum leak will mess up EVERYTHING, its very sensitive to mixture too which is also affected by the warm up regulator so it's worth having a look there... If it's backfiring though I'd be looking more at ignition timing or leads arcing and all other ignition bits...

I'm on my 3rd WUR, passes all tests using a pressure tester. I am thinking ignition timing although it's set to the correct timing mark currently... Leads shouldn't be arcing as they are pretty new and didn't alter the lumping, cant see anything to suggest that in the dark either. Is there any other way to test the leads?

Appologies if I've misread/misunderstood, but plug colour has always been a guideline I've used to dictate engine ignition / mixture positions for roughing. Too white - lean, black as fudge - rich, coke colour - good enough to get you going..

http://www.bikerenews.com/Stories_Archives/Spark_Plugs/Spark_Plugs.html

I know it doesn't give a full dictation through the rev band, but it gives you a rough idea.

I can tell mines running a touch rich, but other than that they look good. I'll give that website a look!

Stick it on bike carbs EFI paul, everything's better with bike carbs EFI.

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have you set the ignition advance properly? My old golf responded very well to lots of advance :D Best way to find out if a lead is arcing is to touch it :lol: Youve not got the order of the leads mixed up or anything?

If its backfiring in the inlet manifold its got to be ignition really...

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It's at 10degrees advance as per recommendation, I've had it more advanced before but that was before I had my flywheel put in the proper location (it was put on incorrectly by whoever last visited the clutch I assume.

Leads are in order, if they weren't surely i'd have a massive lack of power? Yeah ignition does seem to be the issue, it's just figuring out what it is. I'm booking up with C&R in Nottingham to have everything setup correctly, do you remember them from when you lived his way?

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Noticable difference up front Dan, far more balanced

Cheers man, glad you noticed what it was like before!

15633168195_2c3aca73a8_b.jpg20141026_133240 by dann2707, on Flickr

It's only 25mm up front lower so it's just levelled it out compared to what it was like. And it hasn't at all ruined the ride, it's made things much tighter up front

Coupled with the pure solid mounts it feels f**king awesome now. Will be getting Bilsteins in the next couple of months.

I paid nothing for the springs too

Edited by dann2707
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Cheers man, glad you noticed what it was like before!

20141026_133240 by dann2707, on Flickr

It's only 25mm up front lower so it's just levelled it out compared to what it was like. And it hasn't at all ruined the ride, it's made things much tighter up front

Coupled with the pure solid mounts it feels f**king awesome now. Will be getting Bilsteins in the next couple of months.

I paid nothing for the springs too

Looks good Dan, scraped it on anything yet? :P

hit my sump on a speed bump the other day, tempted to raise the engine. Seen these http://www.wellspacedout.co.uk/engine-spacers/mark-4-golf-engine-spacers-15mm then thought they wouldnt be that hard to make?

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^Bet it handles like dog turd.

Kinda with you on the tractor height to an extent but I cant stand how shit it looks having a gap so large you could use it as a legitimate bookshelf between the wheel/arch.
Done properly lowering a car is perfectly fine, as Im sure you know.

Your S3 is lower after all compared to say, a bone stock A3.

I wonder why Audi did that?

Edited by SamKidney
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It's at 10degrees advance as per recommendation, I've had it more advanced before but that was before I had my flywheel put in the proper location (it was put on incorrectly by whoever last visited the clutch I assume
Have you tested it with a proper light rather than just static timing?

hit my sump on a speed bump the other day, tempted to raise the engine. Seen these http://www.wellspacedout.co.uk/engine-spacers/mark-4-golf-engine-spacers-15mm then thought they wouldnt be that hard to make?
Won't they have the opposite affect to lowering it? Having a big heavy lump higher up?
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^Bet it handles like dog turd.

Kinda with you on the tractor height to an extent but I cant stand how shit it looks having a gap so large you could use it as a legitimate bookshelf between the wheel/arch.

Done properly lowering a car is perfectly fine, as Im sure you know.

Your S3 is lower after all compared to say, a bone stock A3.

I wonder why Audi did that?

They didn't conciously lower it; it's only 7mm lower than an A3.

Which is because it is 150kg's heavier.

"Done properly" being the main thing I will pluck from that. Spending money on all these bushes and top mounts is fine; but if you're just going to slap some free springs on the front and claim it feels amazeballs and its SUCH an inprovement then you've maybe missed a trick and didn't need to spend all that money on other stuff.

I would rather drive a standard 1*2 than one which only had lowering springs on the front.

Also.

There aren't many drivers who can "out drive" a Clio 1*2. I couldn't. So why do you need to up the performance? Maybe this is just me preaching because of my new found love for driving slowly round a track.

Just my tuppence anyway.

Edited by Pashley26
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