trials owns Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 got a problem with the passats brakes when applying them going 20mph or slower i feel a judgering under my pedal which feels as its metal on metal, feels pretty horrible! when using the brakes at faster speeds they feel perfect any suggestions? my brake pads seem too have plenty of meat left on them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 (edited) Don't worry about the speedo, just get it on track and enjoy it Tyres... I don't think you can go far wrong with Federal RSR-595s for all round sort of use (track, road, wet, dry). Hey adam i currently have toyo t1rs are after a quick google search there meant to be pants for track. So am putting my trust in you my wheels are are 16s so tyres are fine and cheap. Those federals look pretty good but also what about toyo r888s theres not much difference in price between the 2? Use have got me wanting to track the car asap now so gonna try and get it to knockhill on the 18th. Another question since am a car nooob. Gonna buy the new go pro 4 was planning on buying it for snowboarding which i have planned for next year but mite aswell buy it now and get some track footage. What do you guys mount it too and do u need to buy an added accesory? Anyways i stripped out front seat completely what a heavy beast it is will be going back in though didnt have time to clean it tonight. Ripped carpet up a bit to see condition of floor looks pretty decent apart from 1 wee rust bit thats been filled a bit rough. Still a bit undecided carpet no carpet. Great place to put a ecu was standing all over it wandering what it was under the carpet. Sanded down the wee bits of rust and put some yellow paint over the top not to fussed about the colour not being identical at the moment may get a full respray in the future if i dont prang it on the track ha. Totally loving having a wee project car Edited October 2, 2014 by greg1040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted October 2, 2014 Report Share Posted October 2, 2014 Literally just got home from work Finished rebuilding and fitting my replacement engine which included.. - Removal of old engine - Removal of head from old engine, remove cams and hydraulic lifters and followers - Strip down the "new" head, removing its camshafts, followers and hydraulic lifters - Install the above timing gear to the "old" head (this head is a non twinport head and is the only one of the two that will work with my current engine loom and inlet manifold. My old timing gear was extremely worn to the point the followers could become dislodged from beneath the camshaft and wedge a valve open) - Fit piston rings and install pistons in block, following honing, torque all big ends and crankshaft cradle bolts, main bearings and big end bearings also renewed. - Fit head to built block and torque head, new gasket - Refit flywheel and new clutch - Swap sump gaskets (this seems like bad practice, it is, but theyre so beefy they can be reused if you dont want to fork out for a new one if youre as tight as I am ) - Fit new timing chain and timing chain gasket - Fit completed engine to car/gearbox (gearbox left in situ, engine has enough room with O/S mounts removed to do this) - Refit loom, coolant hoses and fuel lines - Refit inlet manifold, starter motor and all ancillaries - Fit new oil filter - New oil - New plugs - Top up and bleed coolant system - Run engine. Runs perfectly, just as they do when new. No tapping, no rattles. Smooth and quiet. All done solo, very proud to have done it all in one stint this evening with no issues and a successful outcome. Hopefully this means a (more) reliable car from now on! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 You should boost the Corsa because of reasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Good work Sam, very satisfying I hope the sump has sealed properly, haha. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Hey adam i currently have toyo t1rs are after a quick google search there meant to be pants for track. So am putting my trust in you my wheels are are 16s so tyres are fine and cheap. Those federals look pretty good but also what about toyo r888s theres not much difference in price between the 2? Use have got me wanting to track the car asap now so gonna try and get it to knockhill on the 18th. Another question since am a car nooob. Gonna buy the new go pro 4 was planning on buying it for snowboarding which i have planned for next year but mite aswell buy it now and get some track footage. What do you guys mount it too and do u need to buy an added accesory? I was actually going to suggest T1Rs if the car was used a fair bit on the road too, absolutely nothing wrong with them for track use but if you drive like a tit (full lock and full throttle at the same time!) they will wear fast. Can you fit 15s? Could be worth a look for future, better choice of cheaper tyres. 888s are good but don't come with a lot of tread and won't clear standing water very well at all. Cracking in the dry though. GoPro... You may be able to fashion a mount that fits around the headrest in the drivers seat, the other way if you don't have a cage is a auction mount, but most tracks don't like them. Knockhill seem to be pretty chilled, but worth an ask. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 (edited) I definitely saw the Jardomobile in Chineham today. Yeah you did! I was on my way to the gym. I also saw you, coming off the roundabout at Chineham business park. Why were you there? Edited October 3, 2014 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 to watch you, of course Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Obvs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 I was actually going to suggest T1Rs if the car was used a fair bit on the road too, absolutely nothing wrong with them for track use but if you drive like a tit (full lock and full throttle at the same time!) they will wear fast. Can you fit 15s? Could be worth a look for future, better choice of cheaper tyres. 888s are good but don't come with a lot of tread and won't clear standing water very well at all. Cracking in the dry though. GoPro... You may be able to fashion a mount that fits around the headrest in the drivers seat, the other way if you don't have a cage is a auction mount, but most tracks don't like them. Knockhill seem to be pretty chilled, but worth an ask. Think i will give the t1rs a go first then front set of tyres are pretty much brand new and rears still have plenty of tread left. Then i will try out those 595s. Yeh after a quick google search it seems the cars could come with either 15s or 16s so should be fine. Ideally i would be looking into a 2nd set of wheels as the track is about a 220 mile round trip there and back. Thanks i will see what i can get to attach it to the head rest then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Ah, yeah, give them a try If you can afford a 2nd set of wheels then it's a good idea, you'll always have some road legal tyres to get home on then (and the 15s will make it handle better)! For the camera mount... this is the sort of thing you can make: http://www.kiasoulforums.com/attachments/soul-general-discussion/9392d1328097619-our-curosity-anyone-shoot-video-their-soul-gopro-3.jpg Try and get the camera at approximately driver's eye level, that usually works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Speeeeeddooooo Should hopefully be plug in 3 connectors and it works or a garage jobby. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 why is the fuel gauge measuring half a tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Who cares, it's free fuel innit? 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 (edited) Haha your guess is as good as mine. Anyways after a bit of digging out wires have been cut everywhere so new dash isnt going in anytime soon. Anyways noticed a loose wire from the motor sport convertor box slapped it back in and i now have a working speedo. It reacts a bit slow but it works 1 issue solved. Theres 2 extra slot left which i think may be engine temp have no idea which wire though. Guy i bought car from said that the convertor didnt work for engine temp but i think he may be full of it theres a spare 2 slots in the box. Pulled out aem guage all wires look fine from that ene. Edited October 3, 2014 by greg1040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Who cares, it's free fuel innit? My Honda was the same. It stayed where it was when you turned off the ignition. It took a few mins too to go to the correct level after filling up. That wiring looks truly awful! Get a new dash loom. If it's like my Del sol was its a separate little loom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiamWood! Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Id also buy a new dash loom. They aren't expensive for dash looms. If you aren't already get yourself on itr-dc2.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Who cares, it's free fuel innit? Genuinely made me laugh, thank you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Pleasure. My fuel gauge likes to fool me into thinking I have loads left then suddenly drops, sometimes it 'fills' itself round corners just to tease me. I would be sorting that awful wiring out if I were you, it's asking for smoke. I started getting parts ready tonight for the rear ARB fitting tomorrow, hopefully shouldn't take long and will make a decent difference to handling even though it's just a 14mm thing... Better than nothing I guess! Got to weld on mounts to the rear beam, I'm just hoping the welder I'm borrowing is going to allow me to do some beefy welds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Still looking for any people with experience of getting 4 arches and 2 sills welded done - approximate prices so I don't get ripped off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 £300-400 assuming the rot doesn't go any further, you want a fairly decent job and you literally just want the welding done and nothing else. Half that if you don't mind covering up/building up areas with lots of filler after...Oh and that excludes the parts too, just cutting out, shaping to fit and welding in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 Cool, very helpful thanks I'll probably just buy new front wings rather than faffing with having them done, but the rest will need doing that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 How much are repair panels vs new wings? Avoid pattern wings unless you know they are from a good source and fit currently, the last thing you want to do is spend extra and find out it you need to spend even more getting them to fit correctly! Got my arb mounts welded on this morning, arb is all fitted up and e car is ready to test. Unfortunately it's been raining and therefore I'm scared to see what difference it makes yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 How much are repair panels vs new wings? Avoid pattern wings unless you know they are from a good source and fit currently, the last thing you want to do is spend extra and find out it you need to spend even more getting them to fit correctly!Wings are a different story generally, on stuff like Jd's bimmaaah they will only offer a insurance approved+thatcham approved+TUV approved part which are as good as genuine in the fit. Most of the time the difference is in the steel used, genuine wings for VAG/BMW/Mercedes will always be thicker and of better grade materials but that's obviously reflected in the price difference. On french stuff and other far eastern shit pattern parts are more or less exactly the same. Plus a wing will be his only option on the front I'd imagine, I doubt anyone offers a repair section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted October 4, 2014 Report Share Posted October 4, 2014 Yeah you did! I was on my way to the gym. I also saw you, coming off the roundabout at Chineham business park. Why were you there? Literally just so I could watch you. And because I work there. Mostly the former. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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