george_seamons Posted August 8, 2014 Report Share Posted August 8, 2014 You won't bend the rods at 230bhp. Just make sure you go for a progressive map that isn't too spikey, then everything will be hunky-doory The ebay system is a decat yes. If its that much of a problem, you can get a 3" cat welded in...but I would just run without if it was me. You will need to find a friendly MOT'er though, it won't pass without. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Well I think the time has come that I grow up I am thinking about buying a car, so I can move to England next summer easier, my NCB Starts, and well, I can have a car So far I have 2 options Option one, is to buy our Vauxhall Corsa C 1.0 from my parents for cheap then insure it for cheap ( buying price dont know, insuring £450) The problem with that is that my sister will have a licence soon, and it would be better for her to start/insure Other option is to buy a car for around £1000 ( car buying price+oil, filters, several parts change) I was looking at options, and there are the pug 206, some civic and other cars, then I found Alfa Romeos, 147, 156 to be exact. Engines from 1.6T, 1.8T, 2.4 JTD ( insurance is £700 to £750) Questions: should I go for an Alfa? How reliable are they with good maintenance? Any experience or recommendation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Based on my first Leon, I'd say get a Leon. Based on my current Leon, I'd say never get a Leon. Other than that, I've owned a 106 which was possibly the worst car ever and / or the actual work of Satan. So there's some useful insights for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Pros of an Alfa at £1000: it's an Alfa. Cons of an Alfa at £1000: Alfas break down when they're not cheap, and that's cheap. I'm not known for my quality buying decisions, but even I have managed to resist the urge to buy a shit Alfa. I think they've got to be a top quality example to be worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Pros of an Alfa at £1000: it's an Alfa. Cons of an Alfa at £1000: Alfas break down when they're not cheap, and that's cheap. I'm not known for my quality buying decisions, but even I have managed to resist the urge to buy a shit Alfa. I think they've got to be a top quality example to be worth the effort. I know that they are not famous about their reliability, that is the reason why I mentioned that I would have oil/filters change, and general checks and replacements( I have a car mechanic friend) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted August 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 My mate picked up a 156 for about £600 and it's tidy, so far it's been reliable... They wouldn't be my first choice if I was looking for a reliable car though, purely because of their bad reputation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 My mate picked up a 156 for about £600 and it's tidy, so far it's been reliable... They wouldn't be my first choice if I was looking for a reliable car though, purely because of their bad reputation. How expensive the parts for them? Honeslty, I want something exciting and cool looking, around a grand with not too large engine ( I am not a diesel fan, but that 2.4 jtd with 178 HP tickles my fancy ) Of course I would look at multiple cars before deciding which one to get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) The 2.4 jtd is a properly fast car you'd be suprised at how quick they go, but another issue is how fast they slurp juice Edited August 9, 2014 by bing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Buy pug if you want it to look and feel cheap, that being said I did get 50+ mpg from my old 106. An Alfa will breakdown, but you have a mechanic friend.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Got the car up on stilts today, planning to install the bits I'd bought. I won't bore you with all the pics I took thinking you'd be interested. Whipped the wishbone bushes off, thinking they'd be f**ked. Turned out they were in good nick, and they were poly ones rather than the brand new non-poly ones I'd just bought, so I put them back on. I did however, replace these. They're not the cause of my dodgy steering, because I've replaced them before, but it probably wasn't ideal to drive with this paring: [apparently it doesn't matter whether I try to upload this pic on my phone or when I get home, it just won't happen. Imagine a picture of a really bent droplink next to a straight one.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craigjames Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Buy pug if you want it to look and feel cheap, that being said I did get 50+ mpg from my old 106. An Alfa will breakdown, but you have a mechanic friend.. I owned a 145 cloverleaf for 18 months, didn't break down once and never had any issues. Yes they aren't the best build, but was such a nice car to drive. Bar my mini it was definitely my favourite car i've owned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Does anyone know how essential hubcentric spacers are over normal ones? I fitted a set of hubcentric spacers to the front of my car, ended up grinding the lip off the driveflange to get it to fit. The lip on the rear is even bigger than the front aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
011001000110010101110010 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Does anyone know how essential hubcentric spacers are over normal ones? I fitted a set of hubcentric spacers to the front of my car, ended up grinding the lip off the driveflange to get it to fit. The lip on the rear is even bigger than the front aswell Massively, the bolts are simply to calm not take the torque of braking. It won't be pretty when a bolt sheers off... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Massively, the bolts are simply to calm not take the torque of braking. It won't be pretty when a bolt sheers off... i cant tell wether this is scarcasm or not? I ran standard spacers on my mini, and that was: drums with built in 1" spacers 3/4" spacer 3mm shim and that was on 3/8" studs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
011001000110010101110010 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Had a typo in my post, the bolts aren't designed to take the the loading they are just a clamp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 I love physics and theory, but I've done many track days in my MX-5 with massively oversized wheel bores, no spigot rings and no issues... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartMini Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 I love physics and theory, but I've done many track days in my MX-5 with massively oversized wheel bores, no spigot rings and no issues... arn't most/all spigot rings plastic, so they'd make f**kk all difference anyway? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 I've only ever used aluminium ones, but yeah I think a lot are plastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 no doubt when I try to disconnect the cat from the downpipe I will end up in a world of pain and misery. Well F*ck. My world of pain and misery has arrived a lot sooner than I expected, given that there's now a leak at the flange between the downpipe and the cat. My exhaust is just crumbling away. So now I have to replace the ENTIRE system. I just about had the money to do my engine swap, which I've had planned for ages, but not now that this has happened. So frustrating, and I don't know if I can even afford a full system. Very bad day indeed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted August 9, 2014 Report Share Posted August 9, 2014 Had a typo in my post, the bolts aren't designed to take the the loading they are just a clamp The spigot takes no loading in use. It's purely a centering device to make sure the wheel bolts up central. You're right that the bolts don't take any shear loading, they're 'just' there to clamp the wheel to the hub face, but they clamp it with enough force that the friction created between the hub face and the wheel is more than enough to hold the wheel stationary under any loading you'd manage to put it through. So as long as the wheel's centered properly it's fine not to have the spigot there, as once the bolts are torqued up, the spigot's job is over and it's not doing anything. If you're sensible in how you do up the wheel bolts, the taper on them should center the wheel anyway, which is how some cars like classic mini's get away with not having a spigot at all. Trouble is, if the bolts are extended through a spacer, then they're not going to center the wheel as well because they'll have more movement in them. If the car has studs you can get away with it, if it has bolts, I wouldn't go over 10mm without them being hubcentric or you're likely to have wobbly wheels. (The simple proof of the fact the spigot doesn't take any loading's the fact it's a loose fit, if it was designed to be loaded it'd have to be an interference fit to avoid fretting leading to failure.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 Decent tyres! Talk to me. 205/45/16 Are michellin PS3's good? SO many to choose from Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
011001000110010101110010 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 Meh I'm not a wheel man I'm an engines man. If PS3 are anything like PS2, then worth a go. I have ps2's on the front of the audi and they're mega! I've had avons but generally the tyre sidewall seemed by soft to me always Toyo were just plane crap in the rain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 just a question from the Seat guys here I was looking at other cars than alfas, and I came across the Mk4 GTI 1.8T. it seems like the parts are reasonably priced and there are good buys at round 100k miles How much does it cost to maintain one? My plan is to get one (around the £1000 mark) , first day change oil, filters, then basically use it, modify it little by little I was thinking the likes of Alfa, but the repair costs scared me, as they are not that known and reliable engines, whereas the 1.8T is found in the VAGs... opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 (edited) f**k any 1.8t car that isn't an A3. They're the lightest, the best built, the cheapest to buy and the cheapest to insure. And they are an Audi. Which makes them the best regardless. Because they aren't a Cupra, or a GTI. They're a Sport. And insurance companies don't seem to know the difference. Also, use google. Any car is a "how longs a piece of string" buy at this age and mileage. So asking questions about which one is the best is pointless, because you could go buy a 1.8t tomorrow and then have the turbo go, the oil pipe pickup be blocked, the gearbox toast, the CV joints constantly failing (despite me owning one for the last four years and up until my clutch incident being trouble free), but then you could buy an Alfa which could be perfect for the rest of time. It's not a new car, it's a £1500 15 year old shitter and there is no servicing cost comparisons, there is no common ground between any two cars of the same type. It's all a case of taking it as it comes, unless you can afford to buy one from a dealer with a warranty. As per Mikes..."had one Leon that couldn't take enough abuse, and one that's been a constant headache" My two pence, if you want something cheap, fun, easy to work on with minimal servicing costs. Go buy a Mk1 MX5. As long as you don't mind looking like a faggot they're great. Edited August 10, 2014 by Pashley26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HippY Posted August 10, 2014 Report Share Posted August 10, 2014 1.f**k any 1.8t car that isn't an A3. . 2My two pence, if you want something cheap, fun, easy to work on with minimal servicing costs. Go buy a Mk1 MX5. As long as you don't mind looking like a faggot they're great. 1.kaay so you are basically say, that grab the cash, check out several cars and buy the best condition, regardless the badge and the engine? 2 I had a bike with no seat I have no dignity Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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