GavLawson Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Need a new hobby in life so about to possibly take the plunge on a mates evo 6 with a few mods. Has 79k on the clock and will come with a years mot and 6 months road tax. I plan on stripping it and just using it as a track car at weekends ect. anyone owned 1 and got any tips for what to watch out for and any must mods for tracking it? A guy I used to work with tracked his evo 6 tommi mac, to be honest it was a total money pit. He spent the best part of 15k on it the sold it for 10k If it was my money I'd buy a ready prepped car. I suppose it depends if you want to build it or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 As above, not very good track cars IMO, way too expensive to run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Hmm i knew it wasnt gonna be the cheapest car to run in the world was just gonna be a bit of fun. Want to spend no more than 4k open so suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 4 wheel drive cars are never good track cars. If taken to the extreme they'll be good time attack machines but only at ridiculous power outputs. Anything under 500bhp in a 4wd car can usually be beaten by 350+ in a RWD car on a quick circuit. If you want a quick track car and daily driver I'd recommend something along the lines of a slightly modded E46 M3. You'd probably have to be a maniac to drive an Evo daily, lots of my friends have these cars and not one uses his outside comps. The M3 on the other hand is very user friendly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Hmm i knew it wasnt gonna be the cheapest car to run in the world was just gonna be a bit of fun. Want to spend no more than 4k open so suggestions? A ready-to-go turbo/supercharged MX-5. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukasMcNeal Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Anything under 500bhp in a 4wd car can usually be beaten by 350+ in a RWD car on a quick circuit. I know nothing about racing, why is this? (Don't mean to sound rude by the way!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 4wd system is very heavy and saps engine power. Light, RWD and cheap consumables = ideal track car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 ^ Exactly that. Just saw this. Now that's racing on the limit! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EeUx1tZeuqA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Or racing full of twats I considered one of the French hatch series, but the driving standards are terrible and the amount of money they throw at the cars is insane. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I'm with Adam, that's ridiculous! Speaking of the man above - shot you a message on FB the other day, not sure if you saw it. Mate of mine's after a late 1.8, do you have any suggestions for where to find one, or breakers? Also; turbo people. I'm thinking of giving the Land Rover some love. It's currently got a T25 on there and i'd quite like to up the boost a bit, what would be a good upgrade? Could I put a T28 on from a 200SX or similar? Am I right in the bolt pattern for the manifold would be the same, or is that some non-information i've picked up along the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Ah, most of my Facebook messages (I get loads, mostly about bike shit outside of work hours) go into some weird folder that I never check (see previous set of brackets), I'll have a look now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Anything under 500bhp in a 4wd car can usually be beaten by 350+ in a RWD car on a quick circuit. Or 300bhp if it's FWD If you want a quick track car and daily driver I'd recommend something along the lines of a slightly modded E46 M3. But they're SOOOOOOOOOO heavy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Or racing full of twats I considered one of the French hatch series, but the driving standards are terrible and the amount of money they throw at the cars is insane. A french hatchback with a load of money spent on it is going to be: A) ridiculous fun worthless, so could be picked up relatively cheaply. C) a fookin' pain when it goes wrong.. do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Haha. I'd rather stick with hairdressing to be honest! (MX-5 racing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 The bit about 1:30 in when that dude goes off-roading then comes back on and smashes the f**k out of everyone within a 2 mile radius is probably reason enough to find a different series 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Finally started stripping down that Astra... I now hate Vauxhalls, such a fiddly b*****d to work on! Also not very nice doing it in the rain Dropped my alternator and starter off this morning for a refurb, all genuine Bosch parts being used and cost is between £40-65 each so that's not too bad. I have built a new loom for them that won't get as easily destroyed by heat as the stock one (relocated lots of it) and I also have a new ignition switch just so that everything that typically fails is decent in that area. It is frustrating spending this much money when I want to do an engine swap but i'd rather have a reliable car for work than scrimp and make do, i'm not in a massive rush for the conversion and I have a house to renovate anyway :$ Oh and also we ended up buying a 2009 A3 1.8T S line 3 door. Looks to be tidy enough although not my first choice of car but its mainly for my girlfriend to drive to uni and to replace that ghastly MK5 Golf we have.... looking forward to seeing that go! Apparently i'm not allowed to change anything on the A3 :'( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Quick question. I'm assembling the diff, need to get the cover back on. I always see this sealed with a black sealant presumably to stop leaks. I've only got silicone which will tolerate temps of up to 120C - I think the diff gets hotter than that. What can happen if the seal is exposed to higher temperatures? Can I use that silicone or should I look for something else? It goes on that flat bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Oh, speaking of diff questions... I think my planetary gears are on their way out. Bit of a rubbing sound on tight corners and when jacked up, both wheels are turning the same way (it's an open diff so shouldn't be doing that, shirley) If i drive it another (very gentle) 200 miles or so 'til I can get a replacement in, am I going to be killed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Killed no, you might lose drive depending on what gives. Whatever breaks it'll be incredibly loud and you might briefly feel like you're in a tumble dryer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 I can handle that. Gonna give it a clean out, re-fill it with oil and be reeeeeeally gentle. On the plus side it's gonna do wonders for my fuel economy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 (edited) Quick question. I'm assembling the diff, need to get the cover back on. I always see this sealed with a black sealant presumably to stop leaks. I've only got silicone which will tolerate temps of up to 120C - I think the diff gets hotter than that. What can happen if the seal is exposed to higher temperatures? Can I use that silicone or should I look for something else? It goes on that flat bit.Get some rtv silicone, thoroughly degrease the sealing face with alcohol and get a thin even smear all over the face. That will do fine, I seal the base of the cylinder on my supermoto using this method and it seals just fine, air cooled motor as well so gets plenty hot enough. Leave it to cure, preferably over night before exposing the silicone to oil. Failing that you could use some loctite flange sealant, the rotax motor has a vertical split crankcase and specifies loctite 574 which is a very fine orange paste which dries to form a rigid bond. Edited May 29, 2014 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrialsIsHard Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 The bit about 1:30 in when that dude goes off-roading then comes back on and smashes the f**k out of everyone within a 2 mile radius is probably reason enough to find a different series Granted, no idea what that guy was thinking! Something along the lines of, 'maybe if I charge back onto the track immediately I'll still be in the pack! F*ck.' Not doing the french hot-hatch rep any good at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Get some rtv silicone, thoroughly degrease the sealing face with alcohol and get a thin even smear all over the face. That will do fine, I seal the base of the cylinder on my supermoto using this method and it seals just fine, air cooled motor as well so gets plenty hot enough. Leave it to cure, preferably over night before exposing the silicone to oil. Failing that you could use some loctite flange sealant, the rotax motor has a vertical split crankcase and specifies loctite 574 which is a very fine orange paste which dries to form a rigid bond. Looked up that RTV thing, I'm too poor http://www.seton.com/loctite-superflexand-174-red-high-temp-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealants-cc485.html What could happen if I used silicone which stands up to 120C and exceeded that temperature? Thanks for the advice on alcohol, used nitro thinner. Is alcohol better or does it remove different contaminants? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Whhhhaaat, wynns do an rtv sealer Alex that's awesome and around 8quid. It's sealing the joint between my engine and gearbox on the mini now. It's also on my oil filter head which handles the oil from the crank journals so handles plenty of heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 29, 2014 Report Share Posted May 29, 2014 Looked up that RTV thing, I'm too poor http://www.seton.com/loctite-superflexand-174-red-high-temp-rtv-silicone-adhesive-sealants-cc485.html What could happen if I used silicone which stands up to 120C and exceeded that temperature? Thanks for the advice on alcohol, used nitro thinner. Is alcohol better or does it remove different contaminants? 'RTV' isn't actually a make or anything, it just stands for 'Room Temperature Vulcanising', in otherwords it's stuff that sets/cures without needing to be cooked on. It's basically just silicone, but obviously different brands can have different properties. Personally I'd give it a go. If the silicone does get degraded by heat, then the diff may leak, but I can't see there being any other issues caused. Even if some gets inside the case, there's no small oil-ways in a diff to get clogged, and all the mechanical stuff in there would just smoosh the silicone long before it caused any problems. Just dont go overboard with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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