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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Why are there so many clio 182's for sale? Literally hundreds!

Yet when I was looking for my car there were like only 6 at a time!? Are they unreliable or something? Costly to run?

Get rid of your car and get a 182...

I still have the 172 and while I often think about faster cars I could afford, when I drive mine grin it puts on my face reminds me why I never want to get rid of it.

Here's my breakdown of cost of ownership in case you were really thinking about it...

Car - £2500 will get you a reasonable car on 80k miles, which will get you a decent car and if it's not just been done, will have an a new cam belt and aux belt done, which is the only expensive service (more on that later).

Expect to pay more for Liquid Yellow (a £1000 paint option when new!) and Racing Blue as they are sought after.

'Cup Packs' added things like dark anthracite wheels, cup real spoiler (abut £120 second hand) and a cup front splitter. Not to be confused with the Cup model though, which had the cup packs, and also a cloth interior which was lighter, no xenon headlights and slightly reworked suspension which can make upgrades an annoyance.

Insurance - Can be strangely high, comes down quickly enough.

Tax - £260 a year which is a bit steep...

Fuel Economy - http://www.fuelly.com/driver/debussetti/clio That's down about 30 miles a day of A and B roads and I do like to drive spiritedly here and there. Hooning you will see mid-low 20s and on a motorway run mine will do over 40 if you're good.

Servicing - The main one is the cam belt and aux belt, its every 72k miles or 5 years and it costs around £650 all in, less if you shop around/get quotes. It needs to be done by a reputable mechanic because it's easy to throw the cam timing out if your mechanic doesn't use the correct tools and that can leave you down on power or worse a bricked engine. Make sure if you're not having it done yourself you've got a receipt from the previous owner. Other than that it's the same as any other car.

Reliability - It's a French hatch back... Mine has been very good (touch wood) and the only real 'moment' it's had was spitting a spark plug two miles from home. The electrics are fairly decent and theres not a lot else to go wrong if it's been serviced on time.

Other stuff - A very popular thing to do is a suspension refresh which is new dampers and springs all round, normally lowering springs like Eibachs or Cooksports and new bushes in the front ARB/wishbones and steering rack which makes them feel like new.

Other than that check out Cliosport.net, cars there are often cheaper than PH etc and better cared for.

I'm sure Jardo will pick up on any other mistakes and info I've missed. :wink:

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Surely with a Capri, you want an LSD, a ton of beans, shit tyres and smoke billowing out behind you wherever you go?

This is my thinking. It does alright on the standard tyres, just looks a bit spacky/ could be significantly better.

I just spoke to a guy who regularly breaks 2.8 specials and apparently he'll do me a complete LSD Atlas axle for £500, so not much more than the wheels and tyres. So tempting to do that and get friendly with the local part worn place...

Surely all you need is a couple of sandbags over the rear axle Matt? :P

Pffft. What am I, 50? The amount of times that comes up at petrol stations is a joke. I've never known a 140bhp car be considered such a monster in my whole life.

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Fed up with the M3 :( Haven't even got down to removing the Vanos and I already doubt this can be fixed with satisfying results. It just feels like one of those problems which will cost a fortune and continue giving trouble for months... Haven't been this close to giving up on that car yet. It needs a diet, it's not competitive against two new drivers and their cars, I don't want to risk my health trying to chase them, I don't even have a f**king HANS device for crying out loud. The expenses just keep piling up. You think you've sorted something out and immediately something else starts giving problems. Then you find that rather than fixing the problem and just carrying on with the comps, you need to mod the car further. The upcoming round is 1 month away which is a good thing, I want to give it a miss but can't. My skills suck recently and I'll essentially be giving up my points to someone else. Need to practice but can't, the car is an absolute pig recently and rather than invest in driving skills, I have to "invest" in that heap.

/rant

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Pffft. What am I, 50? The amount of times that comes up at petrol stations is a joke. I've never known a 140bhp car be considered such a monster in my whole life.

I was having a conversation with one of the blokes at work about cars and he was going on about his old Capris, how they were always such a handful and how sandbags were the only solution... just made me laugh. Sorry if i poked a nerve, was only in jest.

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haha, not at all mate! Sorry if it came across that way :P

Older blokes who go on about that do make me laugh, they're quite well behaved really. Having said that I did spin it at 20mph in the rain when it first arrived... :$

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Regulation 54(2) of the Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986 as amended: 'Every exhaust system and silencer shall be maintained in good and efficient working order and shall not be altered to increase the noise made by the escape of exhaust gases.

And as of Feb this year it's also a failure if they find you've done a DPF delete.

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Inur, can you take a season out and then return next year with everything sorted?

I'd love to but it's not that easy to give up something you like so much. Besides, we're all on a steep learning curve when it comes to these comps, missing one season could mean that you'll have no chance in the following one. I drive for fun but I also drive to win, that's the only way I can justify spending so much money on this.

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Alex, you seem to be very up and down with the car lately, what's going on man? it's sad to see :(

It's either good, or it isnt, surely? I realise it's not THAT simple, but you're either onto a winner, or you're not. Past results would suggest you are.

You've got a lot of experience with it now, you know what you're doing. I think there are clearly a few issues with it still, it just looks SO hard in the vids, which makes it dramatic and lairy but ultimately not as fast as it could be, and I still struggle to see how you cope on stock brakes.

I know you think they're fine, but I'd bet you'd be MILES faster with proper brakes.

Really hope you sort it out man. You won't give up on it though, you're don't seem like that sort.

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Source a standard exhaust from a breakers Dan?

I've got a full Stainless system with one small resonator in the midsection and sourced a cheap standard system for MOT time.

Working where I am I should be fine with it being my uncle testing it but the other testers can be funny about it.

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Both CV Boots are ripped on my LC. I'm in two minds if to replace just the boots or the whole joint? On my clio with a similar problem I simply replaced the whole drive shaft as they were so cheap. I think there around £70 a piece for the cupra?

Opinions?

Dave


On second thoughts, looks as if you can pick complete driveshafts up cheaply!


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEON-1-8T-CUPRA-DRIVESHAFT-O-SIDE-NEW-2000-05-/140428005646?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b229510e

£26.99!!

This is the company I used for my clio shafts and had no problems with them...

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Alex, you seem to be very up and down with the car lately, what's going on man? it's sad to see :(

It's either good, or it isnt, surely? I realise it's not THAT simple, but you're either onto a winner, or you're not. Past results would suggest you are.

You've got a lot of experience with it now, you know what you're doing. I think there are clearly a few issues with it still, it just looks SO hard in the vids, which makes it dramatic and lairy but ultimately not as fast as it could be, and I still struggle to see how you cope on stock brakes.

I know you think they're fine, but I'd bet you'd be MILES faster with proper brakes.

Really hope you sort it out man. You won't give up on it though, you're don't seem like that sort.

At the end of the day it's all down to $$$. Last year I didn't miss a single comp, took part in 3 series and whatever needed fixing I just fixed no matter the costs. This year I've had to miss two series of events completely which has resulted in rather less practice than usual before BMW Challenge which is the main competition I now take part in. So my skills are rusty, one of my competitors has invested heaps of money in his car and mine has become uncompetitive or so I believe. Secondly, the moment something like a Vanos unit packs up you know you're in trouble - a rebuild is around 800 quid and only if you're lucky that will sort things out, otherwise you need to do more troubleshooting and probably end up replacing lambdas and the MAF for new Bosch units - again, not cheap. With my luck that's probably what will happen. So the problem boils down to expenses piling up - and it's not just the Vanos but a new clutch, more tyres etc. The next event is in a very remote location, getting the car there and back won't be cheap, neither will all the hotels and other facilities.

With regards to the brakes I know you've mentioned this before but I fail to see what's wrong with brakes which do not fade and will lock the wheels up at 120mph with little effort. The only real problem with these brakes which we do not experience is that the fluid will boil after about 10 miles. Our longest special stages are 6 miles. Big brakes are very expensive, they're also very heavy and will not clear 17" wheels. Really, this is the last thing that needs replacing.

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I haven't had mine done yet, I'll hold off until my MOT then :P

Any of you guys got a roof mount for bikes?

Looking for one for the Leon, it seems like I need a roof rack, then a bike mount that attaches to the roof rack - is there not an "all in one" solution around that doesn't cost the earth?

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Both CV Boots are ripped on my LC. I'm in two minds if to replace just the boots or the whole joint? On my clio with a similar problem I simply replaced the whole drive shaft as they were so cheap. I think there around £70 a piece for the cupra?

Opinions?

Dave

On second thoughts, looks as if you can pick complete driveshafts up cheaply!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEAT-LEON-1-8T-CUPRA-DRIVESHAFT-O-SIDE-NEW-2000-05-/140428005646?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b229510e

£26.99!!

This is the company I used for my clio shafts and had no problems with them...

Driveshafts and CV joints are different things, and that listing is for a joint less driveshaft.

The driveshafts cost a fortune.

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Well go buy it then, let me know if it lasts longer than three days.

I've used those shafts before on a friends R-Tech'd Cupra (which he drives like an absolute loon), and they have ben fine for over a year. Go for it!

Hate cars right now, especially 924s with a spigot bearing welded to the input shaft. On another note I love George Seamons, he has spent 6 hours with me and his ability to remain calm and persevere with my car is worthy of a blow job

Why was I not made aware it was blowjob worthy?!

I love working on cars. I refuse to be beaten...but you called it a night so I had no choice :P I think the fact you were just about ready to resort to cutting the prop off with a plasma cutter shows you don't have quite as much perseverance though!

Always up for doing the clutch-spline wiggle! :D

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