Pashley26 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 How old is the caddy? Carb mount ahoy'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Just bumped in to an S3 on the local dual carriageway, my car definitely isn't the fastest VAG on the road lol. He was stuck to my bumper until deciding to switch to the left hand lane and blast past me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Mapping required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Mapping required. Correct fuel required 20v petrol turbo engine beats old school 8v tdi - Shocker 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 It's already mapped to 199.6 BHP, a re-map doesn't mean it's going to be faster than an S3... I wasn't expecting it to be quicker, it was good fun though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 That's basically 200bhp.Also, this morning I got over taken by an RS5 being chased by a C63 AMG Black as I was going out of Sunningdale. I had to pull over and relieve myself. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Caddy had to be towed home tonight. Felt like I had run out of fuel, nope, half a tank left. She starts, but when you try and move forward she shudders. Fairly sure there's air in the fuel lines or somethings up with the fuel pump. Hope I don't have to buy a new fuel pump. Lift pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 How old is the caddy? Carb mount ahoy'! 22, it's got fuel injectors though? Lift pump? Lift pump? You mean as in move it upwards? I'm genuinely confused haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Fuel pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Lift pump? You mean as in move it upwards? I'm genuinely confused haha I don't know if yours has one actually, it basically helps the normal pump when you're booting it - had that trouble in the Landy, just dies when you give it throttle. I'm with Jardo, probably gonna be your pump. Should be able to get a replacement pretty easily? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake. Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Yep dies when giving throttle, that's annoying, did you fix it on Bernard? Yeah should be easy enough, just not cheap. Wondered if there's a way to repair them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Just replaced it - look up whatever your engine is and find out what's there and what could be dying? You'd probably have the same symptoms if it's just the pump to be fair, just not giving the engine enough fuel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 rolling 40-year tax exemption, big up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 (edited) I am by trade I used to paint classic jukeboxes and there parts, but at the same time I painted all sorts from machinery to wooden cabinets, at the minute I work in a paint supplier. If I was you Alex in this situation I would do the following - Flat all panels to be painted that have gone wrong with 600-800, keeping there shape and form without rubbing through your coatings of clear, this will 'open' the lacquer up allowing it to dry fully (imagine the skin on a porridge/gravy, thats what part cured lacquer does, the first few mil of paint skins over trapping the soft 'wet' lacquer underneath, although it's touch dry it's not fully cured). Leave them in a warm environment for a few days/a week (room temps fine), this will allow the solvent to dry in your lacquer and hopefully any gremlins that will give you a problem to dry. Check the panels for any defects, if there's no problem hit with a last run of 600grit and wipe with a degreaser. Warm your environment as best you can, anything room temps ideal, thin your basecoat between 2-1 and 1-1 ( I always find somewhere in the middle is a happy mid ground but I'm always working with mini guns with a 1mm needle, 1-1 seems to give you grief on any slightly unworked edges). Set gun pressure around the 1 -2 bar depending on the paint suppliers recommendation and your gun tip. Hit with a light coat of basecoat, allow to dry, check for reactions (the spiderwebbing in your picture is down to the basecoat thinner soaking through the previous layers and finding a problem for you, thinners 'searches' through soft finishes allowing mild adhesion) if the problem has gone rub the panel down with a scotch pad to key up again, a quick wipe with degreaser followed by 1 full coat of base, leave to dry for 20mins till a satin finish is even across the panel. Drop gun pressure 5-10% for your final base coat this helps the metallics settle better on the panel and sit up right (funnily enough this is called a drop coat). Leave 20mins then proceed with 2-3coats of lacquer. I always apply 1 unthinned coat of lacquer lightly, then a 2nd coat with 5% thinner and a final coat with 10% thinner. Treat the first coat as an adhesion coat, the 2nd coat starts to build your sheen then the 3rd coat fills your orange peel nicely and leaves you with a nice gloss. That's what works for me, I paint items most days too using that system with great results. I know a lot of people that just drop 2full coats of lacquer on, if I were to paint something like a bonnet/boot I would, but painting bumpers with the scoops etc applying 2/3 lighter thinned coats allows the build/shine and good finish without the risk of runs and sags, minimising work after. What paint manufacturer are you using Alex? There will be a technical data sheet online to give you thinning ratios and spray pressures to give you the best results. You're an absolute legend Tom! Thank you so much for your help. Nice writeup, no further questions. I'll save this for future reference on my PC along with all the observations I've made throughout the past few days. It seems I'm bumping into the same problems I covered 9 months ago on the M3 and forgot about them. With regards to the manufacturer of paint, I have no idea. I'm assuming it could be Novol considering all the other stuff I got from that paint shop is made by Novol. If I'm not mistaken paint shops usually try to supply you with materials from the same company to make sure everything works together? I'll be using a different brand of clear (Colomix) for the bonnet because I ran out of the one I got with the paint. Will test it on a small panel first to make sure it doesn't mess anything up. I've left the boot lid and will do as advised. Applied another 2 coats of primer onto the bonnet after rubbing down the first coat (I hate my dirty lens!). Will rub it down in an hour or so and get down to painting tomorrow. I'm quite nervous about this. One of the biggest problems will actually be positioning of the bonnet so I can spray it comfortably. It's absolutely massive. Got one more "problem". When painting with clear I'm getting a very rough orange peel. So rather than a fairly smooth finish, it's almost like thick sand paper when you look against the light. I can obviously rub this down and polish but is there a way of avoiding this? Could it be due to incorrect pressure or thin coats? I'm adamant about not getting runs. Also, you write about thinning the clear coat. What do I thin it with? I've only got nitro thinner. The clear coat I'm using is a 2:1 clear/hardener. Edited March 19, 2014 by Greetings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 The service manager from Ed Chinas garage popped into work today, had a quick chat and got a business card and was told to give him a call as he might be able to get me an apprenticeship. Happy! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Got one more "problem". When painting with clear I'm getting a very rough orange peel. So rather than a fairly smooth finish, it's almost like thick sand paper when you look against the light. I can obviously rub this down and polish but is there a way of avoiding this? Could it be due to incorrect pressure or thin coats? I'm adamant about not getting runs. Also, you write about thinning the clear coat. What do I thin it with? I've only got nitro thinner. The clear coat I'm using is a 2:1 clear/hardener. Thin the clear slightly(no more then 10%), drop pressure and that should achieve a nicer flow for you. As I said before I thin the clear coat in steps (unthinned first coat as a grip coat, 5% thinner in the 2nd and 10% thinner in the 3rd coat. It always gives me a finish that needs very little work, other then de-nibbing the bits of grit and dirt that've fallen in. No worries Alex, any other questions just fire away man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 rolling 40-year tax exemption, big up. Been a while hasn't it? Means my camper is now tax free shame it's nowhere near roadworthy yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Someone on FB is trying to sell their car, so they want standard wheels. I have standard wheels, in poor condition that need a refurb, they're happy to swap some better condition 17" alloys for them. In terms of looks, I prefer the standard alloys, but these ones are in much better condition and have 2 nearly new tyres on so it'd be rude not to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Thin the clear slightly(no more then 10%), drop pressure and that should achieve a nicer flow for you. As I said before I thin the clear coat in steps (unthinned first coat as a grip coat, 5% thinner in the 2nd and 10% thinner in the 3rd coat. It always gives me a finish that needs very little work, other then de-nibbing the bits of grit and dirt that've fallen in. No worries Alex, any other questions just fire away man. Edited after you posted Can I thin the clear with nitro? Also if you could just give me your opinion on the bonnet finish, I've so far done it with P600 but need to work on some bits, P800 and P1000 next. Obviously it's far from done but if you can tell from the picture whether such a slightly bumpy surface is ok I'll know whether to get it completely smooth or not. I've put my finger in for scale. Pics are massive so: Picture 1 Picture 2 (this is the one I'm particularly interested in getting an opinion on) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I'm away snowboarding right now. On Sunday a world record attempt for the longest car jump was meant to take place, I had to wake up at 7am and hike up a ski slope for 45 minutes to get a bus to where the attempt was taking place at 9am, due to bad weather it was rescheduled for yesterday. I was hungover and couldn't be bothered to hike up again because it was planned to be even earlier so the snow was colder. This is what happened: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VqQ9NnO7lOk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Edited after you posted Can I thin the clear with nitro? Also if you could just give me your opinion on the bonnet finish, I've so far done it with P600 but need to work on some bits, P800 and P1000 next. Obviously it's far from done but if you can tell from the picture whether such a slightly bumpy surface is ok I'll know whether to get it completely smooth or not. I've put my finger in for scale. Pics are massive so: Picture 1 Picture 2 (this is the one I'm particularly interested in getting an opinion on) Any reason your going to 1000 grit on your primer? 600 is more then sufficient, anything over 1000grit and you run the risk of loosing your 'key' on the primer. Just keep working it with 600 dude, that pictures getting there, just needs the tops taking off those little dimples then guidecoat for high/low spots and you'll be golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Any reason your going to 1000 grit on your primer? 600 is more then sufficient, anything over 1000grit and you run the risk of loosing your 'key' on the primer. Just keep working it with 600 dude, that pictures getting there, just needs the tops taking off those little dimples then guidecoat for high/low spots and you'll be golden. No real reason for 1000 but it does say 800-1000 on the tin. I'll give it a miss then and continue with 600 like you say and maybe go over with 800 once or twice just to be on the safe side It was suggested by a friend that I use very thinned primer as a guidecoat, is this ok? He's an amateur painter so I'd like to double check I'm not familiar with the term but assume a guidecoat will tell me whether the finish is good for a base coat? I recall from doing a bumper that as soon as I put the first thin coat of base paint on, I could immediately see the imperfections in primer. Thanks again for all your help man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 I usually just use the cheapst of cheap black aerosols as a guidecoat. Just dust a very very light coat over the panel. When flatting with a block and 600 paper it'll flat the black back off the guidecoat, any low spots the black will be left behind, showing you where you need to work extra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Ok got it Makes perfect sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prawny Baby Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 The service manager from Ed Chinas garage popped into work today, had a quick chat and got a business card and was told to give him a call as he might be able to get me an apprenticeship. Happy!Wasn't a chap called Miles was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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