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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Car undergoing further mods, finally got some 50N/mm springs as opposed to the 120N/mm. Fronts are softer too. Engine is having the VANOS unit replaced. I was so glad to find out that the helical gears don't need removing and therefore there is no risk of upsetting the timing. The replacement VANOS seems to have been tampered with (could be good or bad, will find out tomorrow) and the cam gears according to my mechanic seem pretty much brand new.

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Got to drive an F20C powered E30 M3 today which I posted a pic of a few threads back. Really enjoyable car but clearly needs some more work. I forgot how short the throw is on the S2000 gearbox. You can hardly feel any movement whatsoever. A bit weird actually.

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I've used one of these before: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DIY-Windscreen-Windshield-Repair-Kit-Glass-Chip-Crack-Repair-System-/170810090618?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27c513247a - it did actually work! They were less visible afterwards. Edit: In fact that kit looks a fair bit better than the one I used, so should get a really good result.
I did see those but I thought they would be like snake oil. I'll have a look round cheers.
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Was browsing a pic archive and found this. Really need to get the car back in order. Should start with a new bumper :P

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Not going to the Saturday comp after all. More time to get the car ready for the season. VANOS has been removed, 3 out of 4 solenoids were burnt so I had no variable valve timing. Replacement VANOS could have leaking solenoids, pistons or a weak pump so I'll be sending my old one to the UK for a full rebuild and bench testing.

Annoyingly the only tyres I've got for that car now are racing slicks and I need to drive a good 15 miles to get the geometry sorted out which is currently a complete mess. What a waste of tyres that journey could be. Perhaps waiting for rain is a good idea, that will ease wear.

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Got under the car this morning to replace the dampers I'd just replaced, because they were completely wrong to the point of making the car try and stick me in the bushes a few times.

Success.

Except not, the car fell off the jack when I was raising it up first time, which was somewhat exciting. Got it all done, but now I've managed to knock a sensor out or something as I have handbrake, abs and tc lights on as well as the speedo not working. I am a mechanical genius.

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Did the experiment today for my dissertation. It was so fun and I really think i'd love to get into proper engine testing as a job. We ended up killing something on the last run though, with the tiny insert in. If anyone can't remember, i'm sticking blanking inserts into a diesel intake to simulate the clogging of an inlet from the EGR and CCV combination. Using these 3 inserts

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Using the 36mm and 24mm hole inserts didn't provide anything amazing but the last one did, the engine didn't run properly so we opened the hole to 12mm not 5mm as it was simply choking the engine and it wouldn't rev over idle speed.

The engine was ran at standard at first then the 3 inserts, one after the other. first at 25% load, then 75% then 100% whilst increasing the rpm of the engine. The results are below and it's given me excellent feedback, look how much its affected the engine torque on the last run with the 12mm hole! Also the THC's went crazy too on the last one..

Benchmark!

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36mm Hole

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24mm Hole

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12mm Hole

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But yeah, as per facebook, some guy ran into the lab saying ohhh bloody hell theres a shit load of smoke coming out of the chimney haha, turned out it was the test engine and something has gone maybe a piston ring or burnt valve as its lost all power. Turbo is okay though.

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Alex: I love your m3 to bits. I really, really love it, but one thing has always bothered me a little:

M3's are notorious for having utterly shit brakes. you car appears to be very quick, and nicely built, yet it's still on stock brakes?

I am confused by this :lol:

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Doing the generic B series swap into my EK while its off the road. Found a complete B16a2 with box but no loom or ECU for £190. Do I go for it on the grounds it'll be being rebuilt anyway? Wanted to go B18c4 with bolt ons but a 16 turbo would be fun to do

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Can't you store it until funds are available? Seems an awful shame to sell such a lovely car

I'd really like to, I just have very few options for storage as it stands - we'll see though! Going up to my uncle's place for a pre-MOT check over to see how much work it's gonna need. I can currently see a lot of daylight through the floor so it's got a serious date with the notorious M.I.G coming up. I wanna get all the underseal off the bottom and see what i've got, if it's more than footwells i've really not got much choice but to punt it on to someone else, but i'm really hoping that isn't the case. Just running it is hard enough at the minute, fuel bills are astronomical.

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Alex: I love your m3 to bits. I really, really love it, but one thing has always bothered me a little:

M3's are notorious for having utterly shit brakes. you car appears to be very quick, and nicely built, yet it's still on stock brakes?

I am confused by this :lol:

Thank you! Always nice to hear :)

Never missed a beat with the brakes, got DS3000 pads front and rear and some shoddy cheap Textar discs which we were forced to buy due to nothing else being available at the time. I've never had these fade on me and the locking power is brutal once the pads are up to temp.

I haven't heard any complaints about the E36 M3 brakes personally but I have about the E46 and especially the E39 M5. Even in a few of my friends' racing E36 M3's a brake upgrade is usually one of the later mods once the aero, weight, suspension and drivetrain have been sorted out.

edit:

Got the hoonmobile back for a few days. It's been sorted since I last had it and is absolutely amazing now. Absolutely love it. Although it's up for grabs if I want it the running costs are beyond ridiculous so a definite no-go for now. One day maybe...

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Edited by Greetings
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Does anyone here have experience with painting cars? I'd like to know how to do small jobs. I've decided to get the daily driver back in order.

The way I understand it:

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1. Blue area - roughen up the clear coat

2. Red area - paint

3. Green area - clear coat, faded out

4. Yellow area - polish

Is that right?

The bonnet, boot, front and rear bumpers need a complete re-spray so removed those. I'm sure the colour won't match 100% but that's not a problem, I don't much care for this car anyway. Just don't want to feel ashamed driving it.

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Personaly, if it were me, I'd paint where youve got it but fade out bigger, then I'd go up to the swage line with the clear, then mop the whole lot. (it looks metalic, but on my phone it isn't obvious)

That way would avoid any accidental break through while flatting/mopping, disaster on metalics

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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