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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Okay so today I woke up early (10am lol) to find the problem. Jacked the car up and as it was daylight I could easily see what the problem was! Look at the wishbone ball joints...

Offside:

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Nearside:

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It had totally undone itself, which i'm not sure how that's happened as it's a nylon nut?!

Anyway I've tightened it up and after a drive the car is now 100% perfect. So happy i've found the problem and it was an easy fix!! Cheers guys

11868823575_892f807572_b.jpg

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Okay so today I woke up early (10am lol) to find the problem. Jacked the car up and as it was daylight I could easily see what the problem was! Look at the wishbone ball joints...

Offside:

11868833695_3b7d189f04_b.jpg

Nearside:

11869109323_be42ffc219_b.jpg

11869260804_47c0a5d6c7_b.jpg

It had totally undone itself, which i'm not sure how that's happened as it's a nylon nut?!

Anyway I've tightened it up and after a drive the car is now 100% perfect. So happy i've found the problem and it was an easy fix!! Cheers guys

11868823575_892f807572_b.jpg

.

Nylocks are supposed to be a one shot deal, if its been off before that could be the reason, I much prefer castle nuts. Lucky it never came out bud!

Edited by *gentlydoesit
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I've got a little bit of a similar issue with the new 'un, so I'll be hoping I have a similarly easy fix Dan! Looking forward to having a proper look at it tomorrow as I give it a good clean and get some proper pictures for y'all.

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Could definitely be, only noticed it this morning and I've made sure I've got some time to have a play with a few little issues tomorrow anyway. There's a few little bits that need looking at, sunroof cover is stuck back, one of the window switches is broken, the drivers seat doesn't move (luckily in my position anyway!), and the bonnet is a bit of a b*****d to get open. Thinking I should be able to sort or diagnose all those tomorrow with any luck, plus make it shiny.

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.

Nylocks are supposed to be a one shot deal, if its been off before that could be the reason, I much prefer castle nuts. Lucky it never came out bud!

Indeed, dan27384863928363, suggest you replace both with brand new nuts. If one has been off the other may well have done. Chances are they're only held on by rust and crap rather than the nylon.

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Personally, I'd replace the ball joint as well.

if it's been loose and wiggling around like that for a few miles the tolerances in there will be shot at the taper. Belt and braces would be replace the hub also, but i'd certainly replace the ball joint for the few quid it'll cost

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Personally, I'd replace the ball joint as well.

if it's been loose and wiggling around like that for a few miles the tolerances in there will be shot at the taper. Belt and braces would be replace the hub also, but i'd certainly replace the ball joint for the few quid it'll cost

I'd go along with this. Get a new nut on there (as a minimum, preferably a ball joint, which will come with a nut anyway) and then keep an eye on it, if it's ovalised the hole in the hub it may well reoccur pretty quickly. Personally I'm a fan of K-nuts on this sort of stuff rather than castle nuts or nylocks, self locking, reusable, smaller spanner size helps access and they're lighter. Just a shame they're less common/cheap.

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How do k-nuts work? Is it the molycote finish allowing sufficient tightening torque to effectively self lock? Can't see any other method by which they might work.

I think the top section of the thread is deformed(ovalised)

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Oh yeah, my Race Suit turned up today, fits perfectly which I'm pleased with! It's an EU54 size, which their size chart said was for 6' to 6'2", but it's a perfect fit on me at 5'9", lucky I tried a couple of mates on before buying! Very pleased with them for the money too. Link in case anyone's interested in some fireproofs.

Edit, yeah, as Adam says, the tops ovalised so it pinches on the thread slightly, they feel pretty much identical to nylocks to use but they don't get slacker after 1 or 2 uses like nylocks do.

Edited by RobinJI
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Fixed, ordered new Lemforder top mounts. AST dealer confirmed that my ARB's are probably too stiff hence the cracks. Either way I'll be demanding a replacement, this is too high end a kit for these bits to crack like that.
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Noticed I still have a drifting mod in that car which increases the turn angle :P
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No ARB for now. Powerflex bushes and new wishbones mean no more clonks coming from the front end.
Anyway. I'm off to the woods shortly, hoping that the lack of an ARB will help ease stress on the front suspension.
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And will probably give you more grip on Tarmac...

Wouldn't be too sure about that, we often hit 1.4G in corners, no way a car this high off the ground without ARB's will handle better.

It will oversteer like crazy if you don't disconnect the rest too!

Yeah, aware of that :) But on gravel that's a good thing since I've got sticky tyres on the rear and almost wooden tyres on the front :P So the only way to go round a corner quickly is slightly sideways, preferably without opposite lock.

Anyway, disconnecting the front bar was a brilliant idea, worked like a charm yesterday. Car is just mildly dirty, other than that everything apart from the exhaust is still in one piece.

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Might post a vid later on. We've decided not to go there anymore for at least a few weeks because it's getting a bit too dangerous. The better we know the stage, the more risky it becomes especially on the straights. I'm absolutely positive that the stage we found is WRC material, it's absolutely amazing.

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I had just written a long intro, but it lost it. b*****d.

Long and short, this is cheaper than sorting the 540i. Should be fun. Has some niggles, needs some rust taking from the arches. So far it's been washed, had the wonky splitter unwonkied, and found the problem with the drivers seat. Happy with it for the money.

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