bing Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 No mate. Might need your services on that one, after the new year one Saturday if you are free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 I'd be up for that. Need to find where it is first Think it's at the back of the engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Any advantages to blanking off on these? And will it throw up an error code? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted December 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Here she is, the battered beast... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDâ„¢ Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 In terms of the MPG challenge, mine says 16.8 but I haven't driven it for a few days so I'm not sure that counts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*gentlydoesit Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 Any advantages to blanking off on these? And will it throw up an error code?cleaner inlet tract, dirtier emissions, little or no hp gains unless other mods are in place. Shouldn't error, havnt seen one that does yet but I stand to be corrected . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted December 30, 2013 Report Share Posted December 30, 2013 I need to do something car wise, the diesel is soul destroying and it is an expensive luxury I cannot justify. A £3/4K track prepped 172 would also qualify. Or a 182 Trophy. Yes roi. You're welcome for a spin in mine if you need a refresher course.Also, I want some seats, something along the lines of Recaro SPGs or Cobra Imola Pro-fits. If anyone sees some for sale let me know! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 Audi just got through an MOT! Got to replace the top suspension arms as the bushes are a bit iffy. - No play in them, but they're on the way out! Also got a sticky brake caliper on the nearside front. I need new pads soon anyway, so I'll attack that at the same time. Chuffed! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted December 31, 2013 Report Share Posted December 31, 2013 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted January 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Not sure if accurate, but here's the print out for the 200bhp TDI FR... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Need to sort out sensible wheels and tyres! Bolt on arches or rolled I'm undecided. Sort the stance a bit m3 bumper, rear window spoiler visually ill be happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted January 1, 2014 Report Share Posted January 1, 2014 So whilst normal human beings were out having a ball last night, I was busy soldering. Made this little diagnostic code reader for my car, and it actually works! Well chuffed. Found out that my abs problem is due to a short or open circuit on the front right sensor. And thanks to Paul and Robin for suggesting I look on Retrorides for local welders, just got it welded today for only £50! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Need to sort out sensible wheels and tyres! Bolt on arches or rolled I'm undecided. Sort the stance a bit m3 bumper, rear window spoiler visually ill be happy.IMG_20140101_150605.JPG Difficult to roll arches on the rear, they're double or even triple skinned in some places. Bolt ons look crap and you'd need a front/rear bumper to match. Just have them rolled properly and they'll look fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Difficult to roll arches on the rear, they're double or even triple skinned in some places. Bolt ons look crap and you'd need a front/rear bumper to match. Just have them rolled properly and they'll look fine. I have a arch roller, would that be up to the job? Was just thinking of getting banded steels made, and rocking 11j on the rear, but obviously no rear camber for drifting. Wouldn't drift on 11j, dont think the car has enough grunt! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) I have a arch roller, would that be up to the job? Was just thinking of getting banded steels made, and rocking 11j on the rear, but obviously no rear camber for drifting. Wouldn't drift on 11j, dont think the car has enough grunt! You'll have no problems rolling the front, the rear can be done too but with a bit more effort and care using a standard arch roller. The upshot is that you have limited possibilities on the rear so if you want some wide wheels you'll need to stiffen up the suspension since you cannot pull the arches sufficiently for wide/small et wheels to clear them with the standard suspension travel. Hope that makes sense. I've rolled rear arches on 3 E36's and was never happy with the result which is why my current E36 has front arches off an E46 installed on the rear.. Is that a 328i? If so I'd stick with 205/55R16, should be ok to drift at above 60mph. If not, just use a lower profile or a shorter diff. Edited January 2, 2014 by Greetings 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Been offered my old MX-5 back at a very good price... It'd save me a fair bit in the long run as it's already got a cage/buckets/LSD, and although I'd want more power soon, it's already got a megasquirt ECU on it (that I made, so I'm happy with its reliability), so charging it wouldn't be a big deal. So very tempted. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 You're only here once Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dann2707 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Fitted H&R rear anti roll bar, first impressions are - it feels amazing, the car just feels so planted now! Can't wait to really put it to the test though. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Hoping to take the M3 on a dyno tomorrow. VANOS is at least half dead, we found 2 out of 4 solenoids to be inactive and also 3 valve error codes within the module. Costs a bit to fix but actually I'm really happy because the car is already quick and it might regain even 40-50bhp. Will find out tomorrow how down on power it is if all goes well. This in connection with at least 50kgs of weight saving could give a dramatic increase in performance for the upcoming season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Cheers for the help on the Police situation guys! I've not seen them out while driving recently, but I did see 'em driving through town the other night with the roof spotlights on - maybe the driver is just a total muppet? Will definitely be turning off and stopping in future though, cheers for that! As for the car itself; I've had a big pile of parts for a while, decided to see if i could re-use the top mount nuts the other day. Turns out knackered dampers do a great job of falling through the strut tops and springs when you forget to put the nut back on and jack it up So, this happened instead of battling the old ones back in; Bilsteins converted to coilovers, 275lb springs, new M16 calipers, vented drilled and grooved discs, Mintex M1144s and Goodridge hoses. It drives f**king awesome now, no under-steer in the wet, just stays really planted all the time. Softer back end and a stiff front definitely seems to be nice, not as tail-happy as it used to be either. Really surprised by how the ride's actually improved with the significantly harder springs - the old dampers really must have been f**ked the amount it used to crash about. Brakes are awesome too, absolutely stands on it's nose. It'll all be coming off again soon to put some bump stops in, stick some eccentric top mounts on and get it lower. However, there's a little issue. It always used to pull to the left a tiny bit and the wheel judders like a motherf**ker if i turn right gently at about 40. Faster or slower and it doesn't care, similarly if you chuck it in it's fine. It's still doing the exact same thing now despite having all new front suspension. Any ideas or should I just get it in for the tracking looking at? I left all the track rods etc well alone, nothing looks bent, wheel bearings are fine. Edited January 2, 2014 by Skoze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Play in the steering rack on inner track control arms. Common fault on Mk2 Granadas which use the same rack iirc, used to change them for non power assisted Corsair racks. Back in the day... Otherwise a quick rack is the obvious upgrade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) I was thinking that, cheers mate! I'd be up for a quick rack but not sure if i'd be able to keep it PAS? Might just get this off and overhaul it. Edited January 2, 2014 by Skoze 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 (edited) Best way to check is jack the front up, and hold the wheel at 3 and 9, rock between the two. If you hear a knock, then isolate if it is the inner track or rack itself. Often the last splines/teeth of the rack wear on the offside because of roundabouts etc. Edited January 2, 2014 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted January 2, 2014 Report Share Posted January 2, 2014 Nice one, will check that out! Did have my suspicions it might be something in the rack as it feels a little heavy/ notchy sometimes, so will give that a go. Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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