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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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I need to do something car wise, the diesel is soul destroying and it is an expensive luxury I cannot justify.

A £3/4K track prepped 172 would also qualify.

Or a 182 Trophy.

Yes roi. You're welcome for a spin in mine if you need a refresher course.

Also, I want some seats, something along the lines of Recaro SPGs or Cobra Imola Pro-fits. If anyone sees some for sale let me know!

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Audi just got through an MOT!
Got to replace the top suspension arms as the bushes are a bit iffy. - No play in them, but they're on the way out!
Also got a sticky brake caliper on the nearside front. I need new pads soon anyway, so I'll attack that at the same time.


Chuffed!

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So whilst normal human beings were out having a ball last night, I was busy soldering. :P

Made this little diagnostic code reader for my car, and it actually works! Well chuffed.

Found out that my abs problem is due to a short or open circuit on the front right sensor.

And thanks to Paul and Robin for suggesting I look on Retrorides for local welders, just got it welded today for only £50!

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Need to sort out sensible wheels and tyres! Bolt on arches or rolled I'm undecided. Sort the stance a bit m3 bumper, rear window spoiler visually ill be happy.

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Difficult to roll arches on the rear, they're double or even triple skinned in some places. Bolt ons look crap and you'd need a front/rear bumper to match. Just have them rolled properly and they'll look fine.

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Difficult to roll arches on the rear, they're double or even triple skinned in some places. Bolt ons look crap and you'd need a front/rear bumper to match. Just have them rolled properly and they'll look fine.

I have a arch roller, would that be up to the job?

Was just thinking of getting banded steels made, and rocking 11j on the rear, but obviously no rear camber for drifting. Wouldn't drift on 11j, dont think the car has enough grunt!

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I have a arch roller, would that be up to the job?

Was just thinking of getting banded steels made, and rocking 11j on the rear, but obviously no rear camber for drifting. Wouldn't drift on 11j, dont think the car has enough grunt!

You'll have no problems rolling the front, the rear can be done too but with a bit more effort and care using a standard arch roller.

The upshot is that you have limited possibilities on the rear so if you want some wide wheels you'll need to stiffen up the suspension since you cannot pull the arches sufficiently for wide/small et wheels to clear them with the standard suspension travel. Hope that makes sense. I've rolled rear arches on 3 E36's and was never happy with the result which is why my current E36 has front arches off an E46 installed on the rear..

Is that a 328i? If so I'd stick with 205/55R16, should be ok to drift at above 60mph. If not, just use a lower profile or a shorter diff.

Edited by Greetings
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Been offered my old MX-5 back at a very good price... It'd save me a fair bit in the long run as it's already got a cage/buckets/LSD, and although I'd want more power soon, it's already got a megasquirt ECU on it (that I made, so I'm happy with its reliability), so charging it wouldn't be a big deal. So very tempted.

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Hoping to take the M3 on a dyno tomorrow. VANOS is at least half dead, we found 2 out of 4 solenoids to be inactive and also 3 valve error codes within the module. Costs a bit to fix but actually I'm really happy because the car is already quick and it might regain even 40-50bhp. Will find out tomorrow how down on power it is if all goes well. This in connection with at least 50kgs of weight saving could give a dramatic increase in performance for the upcoming season.

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Cheers for the help on the Police situation guys! I've not seen them out while driving recently, but I did see 'em driving through town the other night with the roof spotlights on - maybe the driver is just a total muppet? Will definitely be turning off and stopping in future though, cheers for that!

As for the car itself;

I've had a big pile of parts for a while, decided to see if i could re-use the top mount nuts the other day. Turns out knackered dampers do a great job of falling through the strut tops and springs when you forget to put the nut back on and jack it up >_<

So, this happened instead of battling the old ones back in;

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Bilsteins converted to coilovers, 275lb springs, new M16 calipers, vented drilled and grooved discs, Mintex M1144s and Goodridge hoses.

It drives f**king awesome now, no under-steer in the wet, just stays really planted all the time. Softer back end and a stiff front definitely seems to be nice, not as tail-happy as it used to be either. Really surprised by how the ride's actually improved with the significantly harder springs - the old dampers really must have been f**ked the amount it used to crash about. Brakes are awesome too, absolutely stands on it's nose. It'll all be coming off again soon to put some bump stops in, stick some eccentric top mounts on and get it lower.

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However, there's a little issue. It always used to pull to the left a tiny bit and the wheel judders like a motherf**ker if i turn right gently at about 40. Faster or slower and it doesn't care, similarly if you chuck it in it's fine. It's still doing the exact same thing now despite having all new front suspension. Any ideas or should I just get it in for the tracking looking at? I left all the track rods etc well alone, nothing looks bent, wheel bearings are fine.

Edited by Skoze
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Best way to check is jack the front up, and hold the wheel at 3 and 9, rock between the two. If you hear a knock, then isolate if it is the inner track or rack itself.

Often the last splines/teeth of the rack wear on the offside because of roundabouts etc.

Edited by Pashley26
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