Pete.M Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 (edited) I believe the camshaft lobes at TDC for cylinder 1 should be roughly at 10 and 2 'o' clock (if you have an 8v). So they should be equally far away from opening the valves, if that makes sense. That's what I had to do for the cam in the Volvo anyway. Edited August 30, 2013 by Pete.M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Car ready for comp tomorrow. Frankenbumper is on, I wanted some cooling ducts installed for the brakes but was told that they're not going to work on this abomination. Wish me luck, I'm 1st overall in AB Cup which is the main event and 1st ex aequo with a fellow driver in BMW Challenge which is a sub group of AB Cup. 2 more rounds to go. There's an M3 GTR taking part tomorrow and a very good 318is driver has hired an M3 so it could be really interesting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 That M3 looks even cooler with that bumper, love it! I got the car going at about 11 this morning, and its far better than it was now. I have the ignition timing nearly right, i just need to find a way of making new marks on the flywheel for the timing light. I have just done 2 hours of driving and it was purring along, the lumping at idle has even gone. Thank you everybody that helped, it is much appreciated 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Good stuff Glad to hear it! A line of Tippex will be fine for timing it up I reckon (that's what I use anyway). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Yeah i'm thinking what i'll have to do is find the proper flywheel timing marks and either measure the distance between them (+10, 0, -10) or mark them on the crankshaft pulley and then measure after that, then I can add the marks to the new timing mark I have on the crankshaft pulley and replicate them on the flywheel. It's a rough way of doing it but I'm not sure how else to do it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 I getcha - should work fine I reckon. On my MX-5 (for example), 14 degrees is about 20-25mm worth of length (if that makes sense) at the crank pulley (so about 70mm radius)... It'll run fine at anything from around 8-16 degrees BTDC, so if you're using the flywheel which is a much larger diameter I reckon you can get that pretty accurate! Some sort of scribe might do the job too, you only have to get rid of the muck on the pulley and it'll give a pretty clear marker with the strobe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Glad to hear it's all going well. How far out are the marks on the flywheel? Things always get confusing between markings for camshaft timing and ignition timing. If I remember right on my Scirocco's original engine the crank pully was marked for true TDC for the cam timing (but the mark was covered when the aux-pully was in place). For the ignition timing the flywheel was marked, with the marks on the flywheel being the correct amount before TDC for the ignition timing. So you'd set the timing light to 0 deg, and time it so the flywheel marks are lined up, and you'd actually get 16deg BTDC (or whatever the correct advance was). So if you lined the engine up to TDC the flywheel ones were out by the ignition advance. Hope that makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Good: Wheel bearings adjusted, no more shakes, made a jazzy little front splitter from a Megane bumper, looks a lot less arse-down now. Bad: A lot of my passenger footwell fell off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Finally got the new wheels fitted. Very pleased with how they look, although they'll have to get some less silly small tyres put on them sooner or later, and will probably end up painted a less white white, as they're making the car look very yellow by comparison at the moment! (They need paint anyway, looks like a previous owner used to park by feel rather than sight.) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 That looks awesome Robin, so 80's it hurts! I also took a picture of today's efforts; 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 That is rather lovely, i'd really like a Capri at some point! Or a Manta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 The Rocco looks incredible robin, I really really like that. Slap some ford diamond white or vw r902 on there and they'll look brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Anyone well versed in cleaning up carbon fibre? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted August 30, 2013 Report Share Posted August 30, 2013 Nice! carbon's usually got a 2k lacquer on it, so just clean it up as you would any exterior paint. Cheers Tom, I'm swaying towards just painting them the same colour code as the car, they could do with paint anyway. Skoze, cheers. The Capri's looking awesome. I take it you decided to hold back on the X-pack for now then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 That's a little bit cheeky Harry! Loving your work. And yeah i have done, realised just how much a tidy 3.0S with a near full history could be worth one day given the good ones are all between 10-15k now. Gonna do a few choice things to it, keep it all reversible and just see what happens really. Gonna respray and retrim it at some point, probably still BOA it for a bit as apparently engine mounts etc are the same, then go back to a re-built and nicely tuned essex at some point. Here's one for you - brakes. I'm going to put some Hi-Spec 4 pots on the front, with the 9" rear drums would 285mm discs be overkill? Or would it be worth doing that and sorting out a rear disc conversion to go with it? I think 260s would probably be more than adequate, but if i can go bigger without completely ruining the brake balance it'd be quite nice and leave the rear disc conversion open for the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 That's a little bit cheeky Harry! Loving your work. And yeah i have done, realised just how much a tidy 3.0S with a near full history could be worth one day given the good ones are all between 10-15k now. Gonna do a few choice things to it, keep it all reversible and just see what happens really. Gonna respray and retrim it at some point, probably still BOA it for a bit as apparently engine mounts etc are the same, then go back to a re-built and nicely tuned essex at some point. Here's one for you - brakes. I'm going to put some Hi-Spec 4 pots on the front, with the 9" rear drums would 285mm discs be overkill? Or would it be worth doing that and sorting out a rear disc conversion to go with it? I think 260s would probably be more than adequate, but if i can go bigger without completely ruining the brake balance it'd be quite nice and leave the rear disc conversion open for the future.Pfft, worth? Who cares what it's worth when you're never going to sell it? Turn it into whatever you want and keep it dude! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 I would have thought the reason is if his dads old X-pack came up for sale then he could get a decent wedge for this and use it to fund buying the X-pack and restoring it to its former glory? Makes sense to me Robin, colour matching the wheels might look a bit wrong I fear, have you tried 'shopping it? Perhaps it could work with a polished lip? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Paul's got it. At the end of the day, it's never gonna be my old man's car so i may as well build it up into something useable and still awesome, then if i ever get the guy to part with dad's, i could probably do a straight swap for it and then be eternally happy. Also, the conversion is biiiiiiiiig dollar which i'd much rather pour into making it go faster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Ahhh yeh didn't think of that. If you can buy your Dad's that'd be awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 So turns out my engine is a freak... Standard 172s normally make 165hp or so. Looking forward to what the RS2 will do, hopefully bring the torque over 150 for the whole curve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 I know there are normal and healthy 172 engines but that looks a little optimistic haha Still, the shapes of the curves show all is good. Be interesting to see the gains if you can get a couple of runs on the same dyno after its fitted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 I think probably you're right. However, a 172 which ran before me made 172.9 and a 197 later on ran 197.6, so even if it's over reading, it's ahead of the curve, which makes me happy. It'll also be mapped on the same Dyno, so the gains should be transparent, even if the read is high/off. Also forgot to add - a two month old Fiesta ST made 200.3hp! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 (edited) What's the rev limit? Looks like 7? Edited August 31, 2013 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haz Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 7100 is standard, IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted August 31, 2013 Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 After my woes with timing, my car finally runs fairly well thanks to advice from you chaps on here! (still a little tweaking to do here and there). To celebrate the fact it works again I decided to wash it Fresh paint on the cambelt cover, ready to go back on when I find some suitable bolts I really need to order some replacement stickers for the back, it looks so plain and boring after the respray! I also need to cut back all the soot from the exhaust when it was running super rich. Front panel, headlight panels and front bumper are next on the respray list as they are really letting the car down right now (and then once they are done it'll highlight something else...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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