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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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You're the best.

:kiss:

Perfectly ok to take the instrument cluster out and put some tape over the bulb. Unlike the ABS light they don't have to check it comes on for a bit then goes out. If it's not (visibly) on then it's not on, they can't fail it. You can't take the bulb out on your clocks, but a bit of tape over it will stop any light getting out. (I've got the same/similar clocks in the Scirocco, obviously half the warning lights aren't relevant in it so that's exactly how I got rid of them.)

Thanks Robin, I'll see what he has to say about the situation. I did ask if there was a dodgy way around things and he said 'there's a good chance, yeah' so he is down for some skullduggery. Will suggest this tomorrow!

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hm.. I'm not too sure I'm right anymore. When they first changed the rules there was a specific memo saying that the light not coming on wasn't a failure, but now out of 2 sites supposedly listing the MOT manual, one says:

"A Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) malfunction indicator lamp:
. inoperative
. indicating a system malfunction."

And the other just says:

"A Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) malfunction indicator lamp indicating a system malfunction."

So that's one saying it would fail, and one not mentioning either way. The second one's the official government one though, so more likely to be correct, meaning you may well be ok.

Edited by RobinJI
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hm.. I'm not too sure I'm right anymore. When they first changed the rules there was a specific memo saying that the light not coming on wasn't a failure, but now out of 2 sites supposedly listing the MOT manual, one says:

"A Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) malfunction indicator lamp:

. inoperative

. indicating a system malfunction."

And the other just says:

"A Supplementary Restraint System (SRS) malfunction indicator lamp indicating a system malfunction."

So that's one saying it would fail, and one not mentioning either way. The second one's the official government one though, so more likely to be correct, meaning you may well be ok.

It was taken in for an MOT today just to check everything else was good to go, and whats written on the failure certificate is the second one. So thats good news right?

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you PAINTED your seats?

that's amazing. can't wait to see it in a weeks time :P

Yep! Painted. With spray paint. From an aerosol. It's not perfect, but it's a lot better than disgustingly stained white! I don't think it'd put up with being sat on much, but luckily only crippled midgets fit in the back of Sciroccos anyway. :P

It was taken in for an MOT today just to check everything else was good to go, and whats written on the failure certificate is the second one. So thats good news right?

Hopefully yeah, if the tester's being picky they might dispute it, but it doesn't actually say it has to light up at all, just that if it's indicating a fault it's a fail.

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Dad's? Looks well cared for :)

Yea man, I'm very lucky that he called up to say he was in France for the next 10 days and that I could look after it while I'm sorting mine, just in case it takes longer than I hoped.

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What's the score with modding cars in aus? I thought I'd read it was difficult over there to keep stuff road legal. Probably blown out of all proportions thou..

Not at all sadly, it really is difficult.

If i the police so please, my car is illegal. It could get yellow stickered (defected vehicle) in a heart beat, just something you have to live with.

I've kept my standard suspension and camber arms so would have to swap it all out to pass the pits.

Easy enough, little harder with the DET engine in and different transmission. I will get yellow stickered, have to learn to accept that, how you deal with it is what count's. Some time's it's simply easier to buy an Excel for 200$ and make the Silvia a track car and drive it on permits to events and super late at night for major illegal fun.

Laws are, no other way to put it, f**ked here. Doesn't stop people though, i've seen some crazy cars here, so much money floating around that people do what ever to them. Way's and mean's to everything. :)

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New tyres on the Porsche have totally transformed it. The pair I replaced were 6 years old, hardened and cracked to feck. On the way to the tyre fitters the car would lock up really easily in the wet and was a total disaster to drive, fortunately on the way back the new tyres were great even though they hadn't had an opportunity to bed in :) I will replace my rear tyres in a few months, they aren't cracked but they are over 5 years old and they don't grip particularly well.

Just bought a bunch of bits for a front suspension overhaul, polybushes, track rod ends, ball joints, paint and underseal. Some parts didn't really need doing but I wanted to get the car perfect underneath ready for the MOT, winter and also because I intend to keep this thing for quite a while.

Also, are EBC greens any good as road pads go? Seem some for £21 new which is seems a really good price but I seem to recall people had issues with some types of EBC pads separating?

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what often happens is that people replace very old, very knackered OE parts for very slightly uprated brand new parts (ebc greens for example) and experience a dramatic increase in braking performance. they then decide that EBC greens, for example, must be the best thing ever.

In truth, this increase is 95% down to having new parts in good condition rather than the knackered old shite, and only a very small gain from the uprated part, if any.

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Good point Nick, hadn't thought of that!

To add some weight... Recently replaced the front pads (huge ones for 4 pot brakes) and discs (weigh about 15kg each and are well over 300mm) on the van and the brakes are considerably better than they were before - all for less than £100. You only need posh pads if you are getting the brakes hot.

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Thirded. I have Ferodo DS2500's on my Leon. When you are hooning it, and the brakes are skorching hot, they are awesome. However, for normal day to day driving, when there is no heat in them, they are worse than standard pads.

Unless you are giving it real beans, stick with OEM fo' sho'.

EBC pads went through a stage of the pad material coming away from the backing...I should think this was sorted fairly sharply, however, it seems to have been enough to discourage a lot of people from using them!

"Performance" pads for £21 aren't going to be much cop :P

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I think what I have now are genuine Porsche ones, but the brakes leave alot to be desired.... I'm going to rebleed with some 5.1 and make sure the rear brakes are setup nicely as I don't think they are doing as much as they should be. Hopefully i'll find out some worn front discs so I can machine them down and make some adapters ready for accepting a brake upgrade :)

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Finally stopped being indecisive. I've decided on an 52plate E46 318ti compact. 2L and rwd, I know the 318vs325 argument and think the smaller engine in the 318ti will still be a huge improvement on my 1.4l city rover whilst being smaller and nicer to drive than the 325ti.

Found a nice black one about 20minutes drive from mine for £1.3k with 73k on the clock. Needs a drivers side mirror cover so I'm gunna check if the mirror electrics still work (possibly knocked/damaged).

Bonus is, it's £200 cheaper on insurance than my City Rover which makes no sense seeing as it's quicker and RWD. The money saved will probably go on a few tweaks ie. replacing the lexus esque rear lights and getting some decent suspension/replacing the soft bushings.

Anything bad I should look out for on these cars?

Edit*

Still learning about cars so forgive me for me ignorance. Not 100% keen on the compact wheels and figured I'd get some 18" alloys to replace the 17" that come with the car. Quick couple of questions, out going from 17" to 18" requires me to drop to 40 profile for the same circumference (give or take a few mm) but would this make the car feel different because a slimmer tyre? Also I'd need 225 width on the front and 245 on the rear, would I use the same alloys or have a front/rear set?

Edited by Azarathal
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Finally stopped being indecisive. I've decided on an 52plate E46 318ti compact. 2L and rwd, I know the 318vs325 argument and think the smaller engine in the 318ti will still be a huge improvement on my 1.4l city rover whilst being smaller and nicer to drive than the 325ti.

After owning an E36 318i S i can definitely say that it really is a great motor, not massive amounts of power, but it just feels so right, although a sixth gear would be nice for motorway cruising, 4k rpm at 80 isn't that quiet. Mine had 190k on the clock and it still ran smooth as silk. One thing i will say is please for the love of god don't buy a compact, the arse on those things is so high it makes me cry every time i see one.

Edit: This is assuming the e46 has the same engine and box, which is probably a huge mistake. And also be prepared for steep repair bills, bmw parts are not cheap.

,

P.s Sunnybadger, your motor is a far cry from that beautiful rover you used to own. I'm not sure which i prefer.

Edited by Hobnobs
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I can get insured on a Honda civic Type R for £700! Whattttt

Being old is just okay!

That's pretty sweet, with zero no claims (they won't accept 3 years of bike no claims), I can insure an Audi S4 for £1200. I'm starting to enjoy getting older lol.

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