blunden Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 PLEASE. No scene hate on here, fed up with seeing that shit on Jap meet forums etc... I'm not a scene fag was just saying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 This is for sale for £3,200. Those looking for LCR's... https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151406341105544&set=o.210170742351454&type=1&theater Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 I cannot stress enough how much better my life has been since not being on Facebook. Total bliss... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 I'll stick to private work at the minute...I prefer pocket money + wages to just wages. I love where I work right now, so not in a massive rush to jump ship. You're right though, its all about customer base. I'm slowly building mine up...got several customers who I do repeat work for. Only problem being, the Leon doesn't make a very good work van, haha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 Nor does a TQS with a monster meth tank and a boot the size of a shoe box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 Well got the new toy today not quite the r but really happy with it generally nice car to be in and to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) Well got the new toy today not quite the r but really happy with it generally nice car to be in and to drive. ...and that's meant to save you money??!!? Looks good, well jelly! Need a new car the A-Class is okay but not exactly sporty...once everything is sorted in the next month I'll be looking for a nice cheapish MX5 Edited May 23, 2013 by AndrewEH1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 That is sexual! Really love the look of the new generation of Audi front ends. ...that reminds me, I really must look into meth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 Bloody hell, no wonder your set-up always looks crashy, 2cm of negative travel's nothing most single-seaters will have more than that, for a tin-top driving on rough surfaces that's really not enough. In answer to your question though, unless you're rolling enough to run out of travel then it's not going to make any difference. If you are reaching the end of your travel through just roll, (which is something that shouldn't really be happening) then yes, you will get more roll with more travel. To reduce the roll you either need stiffer spring rates/shocks (shocks will only really reduce roll on turn-in/direction change, not in the middle of a long corner), stiffer anti-roll bars, lower the center of gravity, or raise the roll-center. Unfortunately other than lowering the center of gravity, they all have their disadvantages. Cheers! I'm not sure how much negative travel the car has now, it's going to be around 4-5cm at least, I specifically set it up to have as much travel as possible. Just wondered whether it wasn't too much. The car rolls way too much in my opinion, especially considering it as very thick ARB's set at the hardest setting. I don't think I'm reaching the end of my travel through roll, so presumably my idea won't work? With my current suspension I can increase front spring preload which should give a stiffer rate, and at the same time drop the car so the ride height is not effected. Wouldn't that help? I need new rear springs, going to go with harder ones this time. Current ones were 90N/mm, now I think they're at most 80N/mm. Getting 110N/mm. I think my rolling could partly have something to do with completely shot rear springs. Also, with stiffer ones, I could drop the car on the rear by at least 30mm which would address your point of lowering the centre of gravity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg1040 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 ...and that's meant to save you money??!!? Looks good! Well jelly! Need a new car the A-Class is okay but not exactly sporty...once everything is sorted in the next month I'll be looking for a nice cheapish MX5 Well saves the monthly payments so can't complain and petrol the r happily drunk £10 a day lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukasMcNeal Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 ...that reminds me, I really must look into meth! Breaking Bad is a good start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 Hang on. I thought you had meth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 Nope. Looked into it...but never actually got round to doing it. Ideally I'd do meth and rods, then give it to Niki to get bangs and flames and fasts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 (edited) Cheers! I'm not sure how much negative travel the car has now, it's going to be around 4-5cm at least, I specifically set it up to have as much travel as possible. Just wondered whether it wasn't too much. The car rolls way too much in my opinion, especially considering it as very thick ARB's set at the hardest setting. I don't think I'm reaching the end of my travel through roll, so presumably my idea won't work? With my current suspension I can increase front spring preload which should give a stiffer rate, and at the same time drop the car so the ride height is not effected. Wouldn't that help? I need new rear springs, going to go with harder ones this time. Current ones were 90N/mm, now I think they're at most 80N/mm. Getting 110N/mm. I think my rolling could partly have something to do with completely shot rear springs. Also, with stiffer ones, I could drop the car on the rear by at least 30mm which would address your point of lowering the centre of gravity. You see, this is where it gets more complex/awkward. Firstly, adjusting the 'preload' on your coilovers will not make the suspension stiffer at all. All it will do is set where the suspension sits within its travel at ride height, the spring is still the same rate, and will act as such. As the cars weight is already compressing the spring to its ride height, adjusting the spring-perch up will simply move the whole car up. If you then adjust the strut to be shorter to counteract this, the car will simply move back down to where it was, nothing to do with the spring has changed at all, you've just moved the damper down. With these sort of set-ups, the best bet tends to be to aim to set the dampers height so you've got 1/2 to 2/3rds of the travel as positive travel, and 1/2 to 1/3rd as negative (when at ride height.) What you're doing isn't actually preloading, it's simply moving the spring around relative to the damper. In it's true sense, preload is when the spring is adjusted to the point where the damper/droop-stop is holding the spring compressed even at ride height, so you've adjusted to the point where you've got no negative travel at all, and then kept going to compress the spring. The name's literal, the spring is pre-loaded, in that it's loaded before it starts its travel. The only reason some race-cars are set-up like this is down to high levels of aerodynamic downforce meaning that when it gets up to running speed and the downforce is added to the loading the suspension ends up in the middle of its travel. Kind of like you set sag on bike suspension, you set it for the ride height in use with the riders weight, rather than unloaded. Also in terms of dropping the car to reduce roll. Ignoring external factors, lowering the center of gravity is the best way to reduce roll, because a lower CofG will mean less weight transfer, however if the suspension's designed to run higher, then you'll often drop the roll-center by more than you've dropped the height of the car, which will actually result in more body-roll, as well as some iffy handling characteristics, so lower definitely isn't always better. Whether this is the case with an E36's back end I don't know, some cars are fine with low ride heights, but some are really badly effected. It is a bit of a minefield, but I'd definitely start by setting your dampers to be sat somewhere near the middle of their travel at ride height. It would also be worth having a look at what spring rates tarmac rally cars run. Yours do sound in the right ball-park to me, but I'm no BMW expert. You need everything working properly at being suspension before you can really know the best way to correct the body roll. Edited May 23, 2013 by RobinJI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 That new a3 is gorgeous, very jealous man. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 23, 2013 Report Share Posted May 23, 2013 You certainly know your shit Your initial explanation about preload/ride height goes slightly against what I assumed by trying to work it out logically but on second thought it makes sense to me. So as long as the spring stays preloaded, there will be no difference between reducing spring preload by say 1" and dropping the car by 1" without touching spring preload? Also in terms of dropping the car to reduce roll. Ignoring external factors, lowering the center of gravity is the best way to reduce roll, because a lower CofG will mean less weight transfer, however if the suspension's designed to run higher, then you'll often drop the roll-center by more than you've dropped the height of the car, which will actually result in more body-roll, as well as some iffy handling characteristics, so lower definitely isn't always better. Whether this is the case with an E36's back end I don't know, some cars are fine with low ride heights, but some are really badly effected. This is the only part I don't understand. Can you explain the difference between roll centre and the centre of gravity? I'll be looking into some proper suspension later this year, maybe in the winter so long as my current dampers don't fall apart (SO happy I managed to get hold of some springs because it was looking pretty bleak for a moment!). I'm sure Ohlins or any other high-end manufacturer will be able to work out the spring rates based on the load of each wheel and the application of the vehicle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 The roll centre is related to the angles of the wishbones, and the intersections of where they would cross if you extended their length. Roll couple is the distance between the roll centre and the centre to gravity. This value increases when you lower the car (broad statement...). A higher roll couple means there is more roll in the car when the cornering forces act through the centre of gravity. So, lowering the car often gives more body roll if everything else stays the same. However, most people will fit stiffer suspension or anti roll bars at the same time, so they don't notice it. This does make the car stiffer (loose term) though, obviously, which actually reduces the amount of grip across an axle during cornering (again if everything else is the same - in reality you'll add camber, sticky tyres etc). Too soft a car doesn't give enough feedback to the driver though and it feels all sloppy, so there is always a balance to strike... I'm on my phone so it's a bit awkward, but I'll try and find a link with diagrams explaining roll centre and couple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Pic 1. http://photos.motoiq.com/MotoIQ/Tech/The-Ultimate-Guide-To/i-xgj2s9j/0/O/roll_couple.gif Pic 2.. http://image.modified.com/f/17363212%20w750%20st0/0508_sccp_02_z_%20suspension%20roll_center.jpg You also need to consider the front and real roll centres and couples in relation to each other if you want to maintain 'nice' 'handling'. They are both in inverted commas because they are fairly subjective, but the general consensus is that a small account of corner entry understeer (which is a stable condition, therefore giving you the best chance of making the apex cleanly without any drama), followed by a gradual shift to slight oversteer on exit (allows you to wind lock off to reduce tyre scrub, and means you can get power on rather than having to take it off to quell understeer) is fastest. This is achieved by having a slightly higher roll couple at the front (I think that's the right end... Robin?!), which of course all sports car manufacturers know and build into the car, so by us messing about with it we are usually undoing their years of testing As always there is more to it, but it's worth reading up on if you are serious about getting the best out of your car. Took me quite while to get my car sorted but it's completely different now just from a few relatively minor and inexpensive tweaks (tyre sizes mainly!). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 What kind of mileage have your A3's done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Who's? Mine and Phils? Mine 123k, Phils 130k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Any of your with 1.8T's The 2nd Gen (8P 04 on) on ones didn't come with that engine did they? All the 2.0TFSI ones are silly money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 All the 2.0TFSI ones are silly money. Get a Skoda instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Octavia VRs? They are similar money to the A3's aka 5-6k Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wrayvon Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Mk2 leon? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 24, 2013 Report Share Posted May 24, 2013 Octavia VRs? They are similar money to the A3's aka 5-6k Naahh. Mine went for £3600. 06, the only colour (blue), FSH, recent cambelt and tyres, cruise control, 110k miles. Example... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2006-Skoda-Octavia-2-0T-FSI-vRS-/181141080984?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2a2cd98b98 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.