Pashley26 Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) I cannot recommend enough that he lowers his target figure; 235bhp and a nice 290lbft is reliable and so much more enjoyable. 240bhp+/as much as the hardware will make will just ruin it and you will forever be fixing it for him But yeah rods sounds good, I'd pay £500 just for the pops and bangs without the added benefits that come with rods Launch is like anal sex, nice once in a while to remind you how great it is, a naughty treat. But if you do it all the time you'll die of aids. Edited May 4, 2013 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 When you say rods, you mean conrods right? And when you say pop and bang, do you mean on the overrun? How does that work? Just interested, all I can think of is that changing the rods will increase the compression ratio or summat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Meh, fixing it mean £££ for me I've told him it could be anywhere in between 230 and 250, but to aim for 230, and anything above that is a bonus. To be fair, for a ko3s car, which is only on an unknown stage 1 map at the minute, it goes pretty well. I'm hoping a stage 2 Rtech job will change it completely. Its fun to drive at the minute, but it just doesn't have as much oomph as my ko4...and runs out of steam a lot quicker. Think I prefer the exhaust noise though, its not as hairdrier like, and is a lot more poppy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 The con rods in a 1.8t generally have the tensile strength of paper clips, launch control or high torqe/power generates high cylinder pressures which annihilate rods almost instantly. Pops and bangs with a boost building launch control basically does this - You NEED rods for that because the erratic change in cylinder pressures will bend rods within seconds, and send them into a different post code. The launch control I have is just a pussy style rev limiter like hitting the limiter normally. But set at 4400rpm and only cutting 50rpm not 200rpm so it doesn't bounce like a normal car on the limiter. Pistons = compression ratio, rods - stroke. Compression ratio is kind of tweekable with rods if you are stroking the engine, but not commercially available rods that Seamons will be buying. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 Ah I seee, sounds awesome!Rods don't effect the stroke though, the throw on the crank does. (Coming from bike world anyway). You could put 1m long rods in and the piston will still move through the same stroke, it'll just be sticking up out of the bonnet.One day, I fancy an LCR... Probably never will though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) Changing the rods alone won't change the stroke, changing the crank throw will; shorter rods may be required for clearance purposes. Just putting shorter rods in with the stock crank will reduce compression ratio. Edit: dammit Sam Edited May 4, 2013 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 4, 2013 Report Share Posted May 4, 2013 (edited) Obvs a crank goes in tandem with the rods when stroking. My point was more that without changing the stroke it is very retarded and cash consuming to change the compression ratio by only changing the rods The best pistons for a 1.8t on a stock turbo are AGU pistons, which create a 9.5 ratio on standard 144mm rods, and are available for 50p. Edited May 4, 2013 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 A great day with Mr Mil. I dropped my rear beam and lowered the bum a bit. We fitted this. The toe was ever so slightly out... And as Phil had left his 24mm spanner I had to drive it home with the wheels pointing at 10 and 2. Scary as fock. Stopped in at Kwik Fit for the most expensive twenty minutes of my life, especially as I did half the work... So now I have a quick rack, and Phil has a rack for his Golf that doesn't leak. Winner winner, chicken dinner. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 What did you need a 24mm spanner for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 The locking nuts on the track rod ends. Couldn't get them undone on the new rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 What's the engine to have on a 04-06 2nd gen A3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Nice one dude (other than the toe you sketchy mother f**ker!)Feel better now it's all sorted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 What's the engine to have on a 04-06 2nd gen A3? 2.0TFSI; AMAZING engines. Friend of mine has a Mk5 Golf GTI with a TFSI, totally standard car with a stage 1 map and it is 253bhp and 290lbft. So smooth to drive, and does an easy 35mpg. High pressure fuel pump cam followers need to be regularly changed (every 12K according to some experts) but otherwise a great engine. - Feels great with the new rack, totally transforms the feel of the car. Thanks for sourcing it for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 What's the thoughts on spacers like these? It'd worry me that aluminium is not really strong enough to secure wheel bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_seamons Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 The locking nuts on the track rod ends. Couldn't get them undone on the new rack. Ah, makes sense now! Couldn't think of a single 24mm bolt on the whole car! Bet it feels better with the quick rack. Epic fail on the toe though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Pretty much the only 24mm on the entire car Yeah it does feel a lot better, the steering is obviously slightly heavier and the turn in is so much better simply because you don't have to turn the wheel twice to go anywhere. I couldn't for the life of me adjust the front coilovers, bearing in mind we've done all this work to the car and the wheels haven't been off it for almost two years...Steering rack, subframe, all the bushes, top mounts, never had the wheels off haha - Aluminum spacers are great, no worries at all. Although for 20mm you don't need the two bolt type spacers, just hubcentric straight drilled ones with longer bolts will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Those spacers are fine for 20+mm, just make sure the bolts are in most of the thickness of the spacer, so they stop within a couple of mm off the back of it when torqued up. As Jardo says, 20mm is sort of boarderline as to whether they're worth while or not, I'd happily run either longer bolts or bolt on adapters. Anything under 20mm's too thin for the threads unless they're steel, anything over 20mm is a bit sketchy as you end up with super long bolts. I used to have 15mm FK Porsche adapters on the Scirocco that were alloy, the threads pulled out of a couple of the holes after a while which was sketchy to say the least, particularly as I'm really fussy about wheel bolt torques and I'd cut the bolts especially to be as long as possible. Quick-rack's good news Jardo, I wish there was an easy/cheap option for one in the Scirocco. I hope the front end's not up in the air compared to the back now! I've usually found that the easiest way to get seized coilover's turning again's to take the strut off and hold it in a vice so you can shock the collars properly. Not failed to work yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Elaborate, my coilovers will not move even with a blowtorch. My car technicality is 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Basically just take the strut off whole, clamp it solidly in a well mounted vice then knock the collars in every direction with a hammer, going right around them, hitting them up and down, just trying to work them about and break up the corrosion, so back and forth in every direction. No particularly hard hits, just lots of gentle ones with it held well so it feels the full force of it. Then start beating the top collar anti-clockwise (viewed from above) with a punch, I've always found the top collar's much easier to start moving again, then the lower one the same direction (so moving them both up) to free it off. Move them up 10mm or so then go to town with a wire brush before you do anything. Obviously it's best to have them soaking in some penetrating oil for a day or 2 before. (Proper penetrating oil like plusgas etc not WD40.) Never failed for me yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
haydon_peter Posted May 5, 2013 Report Share Posted May 5, 2013 Went to the BTCC at Thruxton today with Prawn and Mogli. Saw some pit girls, got sunburn, saw some close racing and a few cars leave the track, happy days Went to look at a 2005 Passat 1.9 TDI 130bhp Highline yesterday, it was exceptionally tidy but was on 152k so the price would have only been ok if the service records were perfect. It had loads of receipts but no record of a clutch change, the front disks were badly worn and it was due its second cam belt in 8k. I walked away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Errrrrybody lika picturesss: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Got a puncture on the rear, which is easily repairable however I have just noticed that the tyre has also had a repair on the outer edge which is naughty I believe? Is it technically illegal to run the tyre with that repair on it? If so I had better get saving for 2 new tyres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 I cleaned it. #anotherseatleon 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Booth Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 Bitches love this shit... Took the handbrake off and the back was tucking rim, looked insane 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 6, 2013 Report Share Posted May 6, 2013 What on earth were you buying? Kitchen work top? Remove those stickers you fag Whoa. Whats with the ghetto ARB fitting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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