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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Full stainless steel 2.5" exhaust with 4-2-1 mani, b-pipe delete and decat. Typhoon intake arm with K&N cone on an RBC intake manifold with 70mm throttle body. K-pro management, Tegiwa baffled sump. Pulls like a train (for a honda) and sounds pretty nice too!

Who mapped it? Thought about a groupeM intake?

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Who mapped it? Thought about a groupeM intake?

SOS motorsport...

- scratch that, wrong intake I was thinking of... Still, the gain would only be 2-3 ponies over what I've got at present, wouldn't be worth it. Plus, I like the noise from mine :)

Edited by DrDoom
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Gruppe M's are f**king stupid money, if you can afford one of them and drive a 10 year old Honda you need a rear priority check.

Ironic I know; but they are so over priced it angers me.

One for a 1.8t is £770. And compared to a £16 Honda S2000 air filter from any motor factors they offer nothing other than looks.

A friend of mine fitted a Gruppe M to his Clio 182 and it gained 4bhp. A respectable figure for an F4R.

He took the Gruppe M off and tried a friends Simmota at a third of the price and made a further 3bhp.

The same can be said for BMW's.

The form of the product is beautiful, but the design is totally wank for a basic cold air intake.

On the Renault F4R you could spend £100 more and buy a Stone RS2 ITB inlet and have a 23bhp gain.

Tat tat tat for the price they are.

/rant.

EP looks nice, I approve. Videos and more snaps please.

Edited by Pashley26
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Not 100% sure what difference my intake setup made by itself, but with everything done its putting 224bhp down on rollers...



Gruppe M's are f**king stupid money, if you can afford one of them and drive a 10 year old Honda you need a rear priority check.

Ironic I know; but they are so over priced it angers me.

One for a 1.8t is £770. And compared to a £16 Honda S2000 air filter from any motor factors they offer nothing other than looks.

A friend of mine fitted a Gruppe M to his Clio 182 and it gained 4bhp. A respectable figure for an F4R.

He took the Gruppe M off and tried a friends Simmota at a third of the price and made a further 3bhp.

The same can be said for BMW's.

The form of the product is beautiful, but the design is totally wank for a basic cold air intake.

On the Renault F4R you could spend £100 more and buy a Stone RS2 ITB inlet and have a 23bhp gain.

Tat tat tat for the price they are.

/rant.

EP looks nice, I approve. Videos and more snaps please.

This, precisely! And the Gruppe M doesn't even fit too well on an EP3 and rattles like fook!

Will head out and get some pics tonight - but have a little tunnel run, taken with the current spec.

Sound quality isn't fantastic - but you get the idea.


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As much as everyone loves a bit of play with the shaft from time to time, I'd send it away to get it rebuilt properly. Perhaps look into sending it off to Dan at Beach Buggy Turbos and get that shit hybridediedidedided for K04 uberwin.

That or send it to me. Probably the best option.

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Not 100% sure what difference my intake setup made by itself, but with everything done its putting 224bhp down on rollers...

This, precisely! And the Gruppe M doesn't even fit too well on an EP3 and rattles like fook!

Will head out and get some pics tonight - but have a little tunnel run, taken with the current spec.

Sound quality isn't fantastic - but you get the idea.

;

Sure that isn't 224 whp? either that or a very conservative dyno :)

My Tegiwa m (pretty much a gruppe M exact copy for others not in the know) doesnt rattle! though I do have some foam on the underside of the intake.

Edited by Toby
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I've just bought some 20mm spacers for my car. The Hub diameter on my car is 57.1mm but the spacers are 72mm. Is there / is it safe for me to run spigot rings or is this not possible? I'd have to have on that goes inbetween the hub and spacer, then another that goes between the alloy and the spacer?

More hassle than it is to just buy new ones?

Help!

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I'm bored so sharing another one of these I did a few weeks back, need to set up launch control, cold weather and lots of wheel spin... launching in fwd sucks... plus I suck at launching before anyone says :P

Edited by Toby
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Werd.

In other news: What sort of disc/pad setup should I be looking at, gents? Mine have a fair load of life in them yet but I'd like to get things priced up and ready for when they need doing so I've got the money ready for it. I see a lot of mention of Ferodo DS2500s but they seem rather pricey - am I likely to get much benefit over something like EBC redstuffs for everyday use? Not really too clued up on discs at all so any vague shove in the right direction there would be appreciated :P

Edit; Running standard 312s and can't see much point in going any bigger in the immediate future (Y)

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20mm hubcentric spacers arnt cheap, spigots merly make sure everything sits relatively true, your studs and nuts keeps your wheels secure.
I personally don't see an issue, everything will sit snug.

I've not used ds2500's, but people say they need a little bit of warming up, probably best going for a cheaper option if its a daily and never track driven

Edited by Toby
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No no no no no Toby.

The DS2500 was designed with initial bite and a lower temperature operation range as its main target.

View this image -

FER4003_small-1_zps8ceec01c.jpg

Which shows that the DS2500 has the flattest efficency over the broadest temperature range of all Ferodo performance pads other than the .1 which is a race only pad and isn't road legal.

Facts not opinions please, these are Wolverines land anchors we are talking about.

Luke you were right in the first place; DS2500's and a set of quality discs is the only way to go.

EBC pads are unsafe on our cars, and having seen EBC pads unglue themselves from their backings on a couple of different cars I couldn't urge you not to buy any EBC pads quite enough.

EBC themselves openly admitted that their compounds/glue or production processes were not suitable for our weight of car. Prawn knows much more than me, but its a no basically.

Prawn will doubtlessly want to tell you that you won't get full benefit from them and that you could get away with something cheaper. But as he is the ultimate abuser of brakes (second only to Andy P) he will be incapable of understanding how 312's are acceptable let alone anything other than DS2500 pads and 312's.

Speak to Bill at Badger 5, he can get DS2500's at a very reasonable price.

Edited by Pashley26
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.

Thanks for the informative post, would of been made better without the first line though. As stated, I've never used them and it was just from what I've heard.

Is it worth spending money on these pads if its only on a roadcar though?

Edited by Toby
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Jardo, Toby IS right. They DO need a bit of heat to be any good. They are "ok" until a few hardish pushes of the pedal, then they come to life, but before that, they are no better than a standard pad. Your graph is all well and good, but they are all primarily "race" pads, not road pads. Even DS2500's say not to be used on the road on the box...

If Luke isn't planning on upping the power, or going silly speeds or anything, is there really any point spending out on DS2500's?! Yes, they are a very good pad, but if they aren't going to be used to their full potential, there's no point spending the extra.

As long as you don't go stupidly cheap budget, you'll be fine Luke. Just don't get EBC pads, I haven't heard a good word said about them for years!

Toby, 20mm hubcentric spacers are about £50. By the time you've got 2 lots of spigot rings, you're probably looking at £20. Its not worth pissing about with safety for that.

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I know some jeb end like you would chime in saying they weren't necessary. :P

It's brakes, they can never be too good!

DS2500's will out perform any "cheaper" pads in all situation, whilst they may operate from 20* through to 500* their maximum efficency range is roughly 270*. So hardly mega warm, they'll be at that temp during one emergency stop. It is much more dangerous to have your braking fade away with heat than get better, the DS2500's could mean the difference between stuffing it and having the ABS/locking up through shit modulation or driving off with a twitch in your sphincter because your brakes didn't fade.

You won't regret getting 2500's RB, if you get cheaper pads you'll always wish you spent the extra £50.

I've driven a couple of our cars with 312's and DS2500's and they are very very good. Because they are a more solid compound than cheaper pads which have more iron and metallic within them they firm up the brake pedal too.

I don't see how there can be a discussion over this. It's brakes ffs? Better is always better.

Are you playing Devils Advocate ejaculate-face?

Edited by Pashley26
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Well yeah, if he can afford them, it'd obviously be benieficial...but if not, standard pads are fine. Depends what he wants from, and plans for the car really. £50 is a set of discs. Not everbody has the funds, or indeed wants mental brakes.

If better is better...why haven't you got carbon cermic discs and 8 pot calipers?

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