trials owns Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Is said 'launch control' attached to a family hatchback? Na mate, I heard it was only standard on a g-wiz! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I never said Leons are not a mans car; I told Troyston to come back when he has one. Had it, sold it. ££££ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 yeah, its the ecu controling how much power goes to the wheels, depending on how much the wheel speed varies to the actualy vehicle speed. yet another proof of electronic controling the car when the driver should be... Almost there. Weirdly Fiat 500 Twin Air's have some sort of weird launch control as standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 i was just looking at Leon insurance quotes. For some reason a 225 Cupra R came out 50 quid cheaper than a 180 Cupra A 180 Cupra is £700 cheaper than a 1.9TDi 90 for me haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I guess it just goes off numbers. 20 something year old blokes in diesel hatchbacks are more likely to crash than those who have a hot one! Possibly because Cupras are mainly owned by enthusiasts who tend to avoid crashes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I guess it just goes off numbers. 20 something year old blokes in diesel hatchbacks are more likely to crash than those who have a hot one! Possibly because Cupras are mainly owned by enthusiasts who tend to avoid crashes? Oh goodness, not again! They'll never believe you In car related news, I may be getting a new one today and it feels like xmas day, I was up super early and have been refreshing an eBay page ever since 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King C Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) It's literally a load of bullshit. I don't really get why diesels are more to insure than petrols and I don't really get the a higher annual milage would decrease premiums (I'm not saying they do or they don't, I just don't get why) Diesels tend to be bought by people who do enough miles to warrant them and are sensible enough to buy them not boy racers who want to rag them cos they are well fastz. With milage, surely doing less miles means you're not technically on the road as much so you are less of a risk? I do see where the higher milage and experience comes from though. It's annoying because I want to buy a diesel and do JUST enough miles to warrant the cost of higher fuel but not really the higher cost of the car and insurance. Edited February 3, 2013 by King C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 For me a diesel is cheaper im 20 held my license 3 years with no-ncb using a golf mk4 gttdi 130 in comparison to a mk4 gti 150 tdi - 1100 gti - 1400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) I don't really get the a higher annual milage would decrease premiums. With milage, surely doing less miles means you're not technically on the road as much so you are less of a risk? Less miles = cheaper insurance..? In the case of Admiral/Elephant/Bell the insurance decreases (for me at least) by £1 for every 1000miles I take of my estimated annual milage Further to this, they've never once asked me what my cars milage is at the start of a policy, I've been doing <3000 miles per year, for years! Edited February 3, 2013 by Jolfa 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Less miles = cheaper insurance..? In the case of Admiral/Elephant/Bell the insurance decreases (for me at least) by £1 for every 1000miles I take of my estimated annual milage Further to this, they've never once asked me what my cars milage is at the start of a policy, I've been doing <3000 miles per year, for years! Do insurance companies have the ability to request copies of your MOT certificates in the case of a claim? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolfa Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Do insurance companies have the ability to request copies of your MOT certificates in the case of a claim? Who knows, but I can't remember the last time I had my own car MOT'd, I always buy cars with one and run them into the ground, so they'd have to prove that the difference in milage was during my ownership Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Plus they ask how many miles you're going to do in the year, not the car. If anyone questions it just say you lent the car to a mate and they put xxxx miles on it. Or that it's had a lot of rolling road tuning done, or that you've changed the clocks. There's no real way of them proving otherwise. I'm not saying you should take the piss with it, and I do declare mine correctly as it made sod all difference to cost, but it's not something I've ever taken that seriously. Jolfa, what car are you getting? Sounds like it could be interesting if you're this excited by it. In my news, I really need to change my inner CV joints and wheels. The vibration at speeds just rediculous. I did a drive down the motorway/dual carrageway earlier and it's got to be silly now. More money going on the car on boring things. Sucks. Ah well, next on the list after that's poly-bushing the whole car, which should at least make it nicer to drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted February 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 This will sound very noob, because honestly I am very noob. Anyway, I need to change the air filter on my Leon. It has two crosshead screws to remove (Easy) and then what I assume is a sensor, connected via one of the most ridiculous connectors ever - how the hell do you unplug it?! I can open the box far enough to see the filter but I can't open it fully because of this cable in the way. I can't figure out how to get the cable off... Help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) Right, here's that update I threatened. My friend Phil had to take his car up to R-Tech to be dropped off for a custom map which will take two weeks, the plan was always to take my car up at the same time and get it custom mapped as well. But money and time constraints meant that it just wasn't possible, so we had arranged for me to drive his diesel Mk5 up there to drop his A3 off. Phil and I on the way to R-Tech - I got fed up with people taking the piss out of me on forums and basically saying that I was all mouth and had no proof of how quick my car was; so I maxed the credit card and we took my A3 to R-Tech. I couldn't quite afford a full custom map, so I was booked in for a free Torque Intervention removal on my existing R-Tech map; still worth the drive up though. Got up to R-Tech and it was business as usual, a customer in with an AGU Mk4 Golf who had all of his work done by Awesome GTI. Awesome couldn't find the cause of this mans over boosting and over fueling so they had agreed to book the car in with R-Tech to get the map updated. Was good fun chatting with the bloke, his car made 225bhp and he left a very very very happy man. We stood about and chatted for 5/6 hours as you do at R-Tech and had a cracking time. Niki pulled my car on the ramps and had a quick play about, he asked me what I thought it would make and said that he'd seen my wild claims that 191.2g/s could reliably be divided by 0.8 to give an accurate BHP figure. A fairly wild claim; dividing airflow by 0.8 to accurately determine the cars power...I told Niki before he even turned on his laptop "My car will make 239bhp." I've been getting SO much shit and hatred from the VAG forums for logging airflow so much, people have been saying it is all total bollocks and ruining me for it. 234bhp dead from the first map, and after a couple of pulls to let the car settle down the old map spat out 239bhp. From a three year old R-Tech stage 1 map. Niki was so impressed with the car, he said there was very little more to give in terms of peak figures. But he would give me 100bhp more in places. Again, this picture shows the before and after map. 245bhp with the updated custom map with Torque Intervention managed and throwing loads of timing at it. A good guess from me? My car now logs 196g/s of airflow every time I measure it, which = 245bhp. On the cold morning on the way to work I see higher, 199g/s as my peak so far. On the road it is possible to get more power due to atmospheric conditions effecting the intercooler. So very happy about that indeed, it makes my car one of the fastest K03s cars out there without water meth. Now that Mylo has blown up his Leon I think I am pretty much top of the food chain. Niki also mapped in launch control for me, which is f**king awesome fun! But more on that later...(fairly low rent video clip from a 5 year old phone; HD camera launch will be done soon http://youtu.be/at6CqOth4bw A quick video on the rollers (Phil missed the flames though...) http://youtu.be/9wrRzTDJqek And a quick in car video as well. http://youtu.be/4GXRTovC4iQ I know it was wet; but the way it loses traction now even in the dry is mental. as you can see in that video as soon as I suggest full throttle at 4500rpm in third (at 70mph) the wheels instantly light up. The torque and power is in all honesty difficult to control; I've outpowered the chassis now as well as my own driving ability. Any more than half throttle in first, second and depending on the surface in third and it just spins up so aggressively. I'm going to have to upgrade the lower arms, hubs and front roll bar to Leon Cupra R units and try to get some front camber to retain the traction advantage I used to have. With the old map I could drive everywhere foot to the floor and not really go quick enough to really be too dangerous; and it was great. The way this map delivers is night and day to the old map; and it is a true testament to Niki at R-Tech in terms of performance it's wicked. The first upgrade now is brakes though; because the new map is so smooth compared to the old one I am finding myself travelling a lot faster than I should be a lot quicker than I think. I'm seeking that pull at the top end that I've never had before; as though the low RPM torque is still there but it doesn't die off keeping me away from the power. It's a slippery slope for sure To just touch on the mapping a little more, you might be wondering what "Torque Intervention" is. To explain in short terms it is a way of the stock ECU trying to limit torque by adjusting the timing, for instance if you imagined a row of timing points as being (for instance) 20*, 20*,0*,20*,20*,0*,20*,20*,0*,20*,20*,0*,20* and so on there are points in there where the timing is retarded (in old speak) back to 0* to limit the amount of torque that the car can make. The aim of TiV removal is to remove the 0* timing which is occurring and replace them with a less radical timing adjustment to make power and torque delivery smoother and much more linear. It is something which the Bosch 1.8t ecu's do, and until recently was something people were aware of but unable to map around. Niki at R-Tech found a way to do it, and has been firmly at the top of the tuning game ever since. The Torque Intervention can be seen by the squigglyness of the previous map, and the benefits can be seen by the linear and smooth plot of the post map as well as the ability to control the turbo more efficiently and add more timing which allows for more power and torque at the top end. Both maps are shown with the same sample and scaling rate; where as previously the sample and scaling rates would have been adjusted to make the graph look smoother and it was just a trait of the ECU. So there we have it! My car was all mapped up and awesome. Now the bad part. Got in the car and did my first launch; there was an almight crash and a bang and a plastic scraping sound being dragged across the road. My front bumper had fallen off due to the launch being so aggressive...We replaced the bumper and re-secured it and set off, there was the most horrific noise coming from the gearbox. We stopped right away and fully inspected the car, there was no audible knocking at idle, the casing was not broken, no fluids had been lost and after checking the dip stick and checking over the engine oil we had found the issue. Bearing in mind I have been in Prawns A3 for three gearbox annihilations, Phil works for a VAG specialist and is the most technically knowledgable person I have ever met for VAG stuff between the pair of us we both agreed we would put our log books and a years wages on a sheered diff rivet. The noise was horrendous, and in third it sounded like a bag of nuts in a washing machine. There was a shocking wining noise on over run and it quietened down at high speeds. It was the only thing on the car which could sound like it. We had also deduced that I had split or compressed my dog bone and gearbox mounts because the gearbox was knocking backward and forwards on its mounts, and the exhaust was now hitting the subframe and rear axle on pull away. I spent three hours driving at crawling speed, crying with my head in my hands because we were both totally certain we had sheered a diff rivet launching the car. 20mph along the M42 in the hard shoulder during rush hour for three hours...NOT enjoyable, and honestly I was a total mess. I must have cried a pints worth of tears! My phone battery was dead from using sat-nav on the way up, and due to reasons beyond our control Phils iPhone could not make any outgoing phone calls or use data. We were stranded unless we got it back. I got to the first services about 200 miles from home and as I changed down through the gears I felt the gear stick lock out, it had done this before and I knew exactly what it was. The catch can had fallen off its mount and was stuck in the shift tower. I was ready to kill a child at this point, so I threw the car into the first parking space opened the bonnet and like a madman with one foot on the top of the bumper I ripped the entire PCV system and catch can off the car and launched it across the carpark into a hedge. Went and had a couple of fags and a coffee to calm down, phoned my missus from Phils phone on 0800 reverse and told her the bad news. Waited half an hour and off we went again to try and limp it home. Noise was TOTALLY gone, other than a very small gearbox whine in first and second which in all fairness was there before. In short...Where we had launched so violently I managed to sheer the gearbox mount (which to be fair is 12 years old) which had moved the engine back half an inch momentarily, the grumbling noise we were heearing when on overrun was the engine tilting forwards and the selector tower hitting the catch can, and the horrendous wining was just the engine and gearbox vibrations going through the catch can. Yeah the car still needed a gearbox mount; but they're £20 from GSF haha! Phil and I felt like such a bunch of fannys. This is the text Prawn got from Lou - Which pretty much sums it all up haha! So we made our way back at warp factor speed and I will be doing a full set of engine mounts, a new polybush dogbone mount and a transmission fluid change tomorrow after work haha! Didn't I ever feel bloody silly... - Today I went and picked up a Miltek for my friend Joe, and we also got him an ITG Maxogen induction setup which I fitted for him this afternoon. Climate panel says "Hi and Lo" which always makes me lol. Joes car looks pimp - The ITG Maxogen kit is f**king MASSIVE. To give you an idea of size I can stand a redbull can up in the larger intake pipes.. There you have it; that's what I've been doing whilst I was away. Edited February 3, 2013 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 TLDR, but yeah, good news on the new map. Do you know if the M3.8 has torque intervention by any chance? Also adding camber with LCR bits will decrease your traction, not help it. The roll centre correction may help it a touch, but more camber will be bad for traction. Best thing you could do would be to fit the LCR stuff but stick with standard camber settings, unless you're killing the outer edge of your tyres. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 TL;DidRead for me. Bit of a saga but great to have shut a few folk up in the end dude, even if you did drive most of the way home in GimpMode 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) TL:worth a read if you can be arsed I need to have a chat with Prawn; it's not the straight line traction I am missing out on; I can modulate the throttle enough for that it's the corner exit traction I need as well as the ability to take them faster. Coming off roundabouts and through bends I'm finding that I'm spinning the wheels up and going backwards where as before it didn't really have enough torque to spin the wheels so would just drag itself out, and it would be nice not to have to scrub quite so much speed off and to carry more of it through the corner. Yeah Luke; a huge part of me didn't actually do this for myself. Just to shut the idiots on ASN up haha! Edited February 3, 2013 by Pashley26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Yep, I went back and read it all, although I'd read most on AudiSport already, but I'm bored and knackered after riding, so thought I might as well. Sounds like a bit of an adventure. I'm confused as to how the catch can could be mistaken too, but I guess weirder things have happened. At least you did it the right way around! Imagine if you'd assumed it was something minor and turned out to be a lunched box! This'll sound stupid thanks to being so simple, but I know the answer to your traction issues, and it's a stiffer throttle spring preferably a progressive one. Seriously, it makes it much easier to drive an over-powered car. That and some wider tyres. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I would like to do that actually; think you could do a little research for me? I wouldn't have a clue where to start. I don't like this throttle feel compared to my old cable throttle; and a stiffer feel would be a huge help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) Getting your wishbones closer to level with LCR hubs should help a little with traction on corner exit. What are you running ARB wise? A stiffer rear/softer front would help, same goes for spring rates. Plus there's always the wider tyre route. LCR wishbones will improve feel thanks to the extra caster, but wont help traction. The extra camber they give will help cornering speeds, but as you've got an open diff they'll actually slightly hurt power delivery on corner exit, as the inside wheel will have a worse contact patch. Only thing you can really do with the throttle feel is to dismantle the pedal and add a second spring/stiffer spring to the mechanism. Unfortunately I don't have one to take apart for you, and it's not something I've ever seen someone do with a FBW setup. Edited February 3, 2013 by RobinJI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I've got a standard front ARB and an Eibach 25mm rear, so it should be as soft as it can get on the front without going silly. I think I need more lateral grip, the easiest way to do that is clearly tires. Speaking to Prawn I will polybush the lower arms to remove tramp as a start, I should get that sorted next Sunday. That'll do for a start and I'll see how I get on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 (edited) If you're after more lateral grip then other than the obvious posher dampers option you need to lower the weight, lower the GofG, increase the tyres grip and improve your suspension geometry. Any or all of those will help, but obviously some are easier than others! I'm guessing you don't want to remove, or move around the cars weight as it's a daily, so that leaves tyres and geo. Tyre's are simple enough and you know what you're doing there. Geo wise, LCR hubs and wishbones, add camber and reduce flex (rose-joint/polybush/chassis bracing). Obviously adding camber will hurt tyre wear unless you drive flat-out everywhere, and will hurt straight line grip. There's not a whole lot more you can do with your suspension set-up without going crazy. Edited February 3, 2013 by RobinJI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete.M Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 A brick for your viewing pleasure. I know it requires lows, they're on the way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 Cool brick, I miss my 240 GLT 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pashley26 Posted February 3, 2013 Report Share Posted February 3, 2013 I miss your 240glt too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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