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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Tadaarrr!!!!!!!!

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Wired my stereo in but no signs of life :/ Not really sure where to go from here with that. It worked mint in the mini, all fuses are intact.

Edit: sorted! Edit: as in picture sorted not stereo

Edited by Duncy H
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I found a treasure trove of a place local to me, a vw breakers and got a load of bits this morning for peanuts.

With the heater blowers not working too and the stereo I thought it could be linked? Don't they run of the same circuit? Possibly a dodgey relay?

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Maybe, are the wipers ok? The heater, wipers and lights (dipped/full beam) are on the same circuit if I remember right, can't remember about the stereo but I think it might be on there too, would make sense as that's basically all the stuff that uses an ignition switched live that cuts when cranking. Obviously check the fuses and relay, and try wiggling the key in the barrel, the switch on the back of it often wears so you loose the ignition switched accessories.

Edited by RobinJI
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Swapped them, no difference. Got the multimeter out and using red as power and black input as earth nothing. Using red input as power and a bolt on the door as earth I have a juicy 14.26 volts. What's the bet that the heater blower and stereo are both earthed at the same point? Gunna have a poke at the blower now with the multimeter.

I'm going up to my mates on Saturday who is a mk2 whizz kid. He's gunna help me strip it and put everything right. Plus his mate down the road has a garage full of mk2 bits we can delve into :)

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Made a bit of progress with the electrics.

Stereo:

Now can get a voltage across the black (earth) and red live (nothing at yellow but have connected both red and yellow together). So this makes me think either the headunit is broke or the block connector that joins to the connector is broke. Not really sure how to check which is at fault though. Blew a fuse in the process :P

Heater blower:

No voltage at the connector at the blower unit. No voltage at the input to the switch. Which makes me think a bad earth (I don't know where it is earthed though?) or a faulty relay (again don't know exactly which relay).

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Have you checked if there's voltage at the switch if you earth the meter elseware? Also with the stereo, just unplug the stereo and check for continuity between the black wire's pin on the plug and somewhere you know's an earth. Same goes for checking continuity between the heater's earth wire (at the heater) and a known earth. In fact just check the continuity of all the sections of circuit. Fuse to switch, switch to heater, heater to earth.

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One should have voltage with ignition off, and both should have voltage with ignition on (red and yellow that is) as one is a permanent live so your headunit stores your settings and the other provides power when the ignitions on.

It's unlikely the power to the blower comes from the switch, it'll prob go through a relay (or at least mine have...)

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I have a voltage at one of the inputs to the switch if I earth it elsewhere. Also good continuity at both input and down at the motor to a know earth. Bad continuity between the switch though? So that could be it?

The red is meant to be switched live and yellow permanent. I don't get a voltage at any time at the yellow but do at red with ignition on. I presume though it can manage without permanent live? Or have both red and yellow inputs as switched lives (It just won't be able to store anything)?

Good continuity on earth input to know live. On the stereo itself it has bad continuity through every combination. So I guess that the headunit could be at fault? Weird though cause I'm sure it worked in the mini. In fact thinking about it It wasn't on for the last few days but I just thought I had switched it off and never put it on for the short journey to and fro from work.

Oh and one last thing. CONTINUITY!

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Whacking in another permanent live won't be hard, might be the best option, just remember to whack an inline fuse in! Can't you check the headunit in your mini again to be sure it functions still?

The switch may have 12v going to it, but that still doesnt mean it takes the full current of the blower so it's worth checking to see if it has a relay. Switch could be at fault, i'm assuming you are testing it in both the on and off position yeah? :P

I met an electrician who didn't know what continuity was, needless to say I requested that my landlord never sends him again

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Switch could be at fault, i'm assuming you are testing it in both the on and off position yeah? :P

Of coarse I didn't, that is way too obvious :P The switch appears to be fine :blush:

I crudely wired the headunit into the mini and it didn't work... So i guess we have a winner. Shame cause I liked that headunit :'( Gahh more expense!! It has been on the car floor moving about for the last few days so it may have broke then.

I just had a fiddle at the input to the heater blower. In each switch position I can find a voltage and there is good continuity through the earth there. Which I guess leaves the only thing left being the fan/motor?

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At least headunits are pretty cheap these days, Halfords always have some sort of poverty deal on if you don't want to spend much. Usually when the resistor goes, you still get one speed from the fan (or at least in my experience) Could try directly giving the fan motor power to check that it isn't dead, at least that would help you rule it out

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I've just spent about three hours on the Honda Roots page on FB. It's amazing, there's thousands of photos of classic Honda's - I'm not even really into Honda's but it's very interesting.

I must admit, I now want an N600. If you like classic cars / brochures and stuff, check it out.

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Yeah, I don't think I'd want a quick release boss unless the car's very insecure otherwise, or it's difficult to get in and out of the seat with it in place. If you don't need it there, I'd rather have less joints in the steering system. Less to go wrong and less to cause play/flex/movement. It's only ever going to stop opportunistic thieves anyway, and any modern immobiliser will more than stop them anyway.

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I have a quick release boss, although mine's a driftworks ball bearing one rather than the splined type, so the locking is entirely positive, and it will not turn the column at all unless 100% locked, the ball bearings and spring loading system also mean it'll be longer before play develops.

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Worth noting it adds around 2'' to the column length though, so for many people a dished wheel and snap off boss will put the wheel too close. I changed from a dished wheel to a flat OMP Targa 330 when I fitted the snap off.

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