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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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:lol:

It all comes down to whether or not this one's had and has proof of turbo and pump change. If it does, great, if not then I'll keep hunting. No real rush other than the fact that I'm an impatient b*****d who likes shiny new toys :P

Edit; and just received a phonecall from Prawn saying much the same (cheers, Nick!)

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I love my E38 car mechanics. I left the car for a few minor jobs, mostly things that were annoying me for months. And they did all those jobs and also thought it would be a good idea to remove the oil sump. What they found was the oil pump secured to the engine only by the chain it's driven by and and 2 completely lose bolts. 4 bolts were in the sump. Thank you guys, you saved my engine.

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f**k me, scary shit.

I'm so glad the Audi isn't shit/has proper brakes/tires and suspension.

Rolling along the A38 at about 70ish on the inside lane and there was a pick up truck in the outside lane a couple of car lengths away and a car on my right. The pick up truck lost some of it's load and two scaffolding poles and a load of bags fell off the back. Car next to me takes evasive action and veers into my lane, the MX5 that had been right up my arse the whole time obviously wasn't looking and was coming towards me at 80+.

I had to swerve onto the soft verge at 70+ and the whole car went totally sideways, facing the armco at 70mph. Gave it full opposite lock and a boot full and it just about pulled straight with less than an inch to spare between me and the armco. I could have put my hand out the window and touched it.

It shit me up so badly I had to pull over immediately and chain smoke for 5 mins on the phone to Prawn.

Heart was properly in my mouth, I'm just so glad to be home safe!

Note to everybody; make sure your car is tip top all the time. Because I KNOW that if I was in my old BM or anything other than my amazing Audi I'd have been in a full on collision after that.

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Didn't they build the car in the first place? That's a pretty serious case of 'doing it wrong' if some of the bolts had dropped out!?

You would have noticed the low oil pressure anyway, but still, good job they found it!

Nah, that's the E38 (7 series, my daily driver). It's a common problem with these engines apparently but I never considered doing it. It's probably never been checked.

edit: JD should probably have his checked too.

M3 is fine and ready for a comp tomorrow. Special stage apparently almost all on the track so my friend is taking part in an M3 GTR rather than his regular M3 so I'd say we're all pretty much screwed. With a bit of luck, I might come 3rd in class. Fingers crossed.

Edited by Greetings
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PS Robin; oh my god I just want to give you a cuddle :(

Any way I can help?

Lol, wow that seems gay out of context! Cheers though, I'm feeling pretty pissed about it right now! Don't think there's anything that anyone can help with really, I just need to get on with it, thanks for the offer though.

To explain, I stuck my Scirocco in for an MOT yesterday hoping it have it ready for the weekend as I had plans to go and see mates from uni then stop off at Prawns on the way back. It failed on perished brake hoses and the headlights having decided to stop working on the drive to the garage, nothing bad and to my surprise nothing related to the completely different engine I'd just wedged into it, besides the clutch needing to be adjusted, the engine worked flawlessly despite the drive being it's first time run with any coolant in it!

Picked the car up from the garage this morning, went to order the brake hoses this morning and to my amazement the parts place had all 4 in (only needed 3, but for £7 extra I'd rather replace the lot!) fitted them all, everything going to plan, nothing seized and the brakes bled up after nice and easy, yay. Time to sort the lights, I was lacking dipped and full beam but had sides. Makes sense, side lights run from a permanent live, dipped and full beam run from an ignition switched live, so it's likely either the wire providing that switched live or the switch its self. Nope, power was coming out the other side of the switch fine and making it down to the fuse box, but not out the other side. No blown fuses and no idea which relay it was meant to be, but none of the fitted relays showed a signal that was switched with the lights, so it looks like my fuse box has shit the bed.

Ok, only a couple of hours left to get it re-tested and get to the post-office to buy tax if I want to make it for this weekend, so I dug out a fused relay from a box of spares and started wiring it in to by-pass the fuse box, got it all in other than running a new live from the battery. So I found some suitable wire, spliced into the power feed I used for the engines electrics and went to run it through the bulkhead. Only problem is I'd forgotten to disconnect the battery while doing this, and as I was routing it through the bulkhead the live wire touched the ECU's casing. Only for a second but that was enough to kill the ECU. Fuel pump relay was having what I can only describe as a seizure and trying to start it got nothing but crazy noises. BOLLOCKS!

The good news is I've got a spare ECU, the bad news is this has to be used with a matching key and dials. I've got these too, the issue being that the dials are slightly different to the ones fitted, so I need to remove the dash again to re-modify it to fit the new clocks, as well as modifying the new clocks to fit behind the Sciroccos smaller aperture. So yeah, the conversion was basically finished, until a part I hadn't even touched broke randomly, and while trying to fix it I managed to put my self back a load. I hate cars sometimes.

At least while the dash is out I can do a proper job of the lights. I'm going to run new wiring for them to avoid the original and apparently unreliable fuse box. Could be a lot worse, at least a Scirocco dash is only a few wiring plugs and 7 screws to remove, but it's still a kick in the balls considering I thought I was basically done.

Edited by RobinJI
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Tuning boxes are scary stuff. A box of resistors and shit is nothing like a remap!

Another weekend, another update:

New battery has arrived, and it's for a mobility scooter! 6Kg, 22Ah, Deep discharge, not hooked it up yet, but I'm convinced it'll work just fine, Dad found this one for us on ebay after I mentioned the idea after Andy did something similar on the volvo:

AE850568-3718-4680-98B5-DB1A2EC1D2BE-1367-00000116B686C904.jpg

Carrying on with the shifter, when I offered the base tower into the car, the old hole from the original shifter was slightly too wide, and didn't give me enough room to neatly get bolts through the front corners of the tower. I didn't want to drill messy holes right on the very edge of the alloy, so decided to make up a plate to match the tower under the tunnel and sandwich the whole thing into place:

6BF1B6F0-CFB6-4314-AD68-6962367BEDE4-1367-00000116C20EB03D.jpg

6 holes drilled, and tapped to an M6 thread:

13F04BFB-AD81-4D8E-A8B9-218B0F7AE11C-1367-00000116C9AF78C2.jpg

Will also back the bolts up with nuts as well, as I don't think threaded 3mm plate is man enough.

With that cut and shaped, I bolted the shifter in, no pics at this point, as it looks the same as it did last time I rested it in place.

I moved onto the gearbox end, and removed the old shift tower and left right levers:

1BAFABAE-D835-4AC9-A93F-C444718B5A44-1367-00000116D1283944.jpg

And refitted the modified cable bracket, and the first volvo cable:

78D6BC23-EC18-4D76-B6E1-7E92B107FBE2-1367-00000116D9201202.jpg

Then I forgot to take pics for a while, and started making up the cable stop for the left right cable:

Cut, welded up, and ground back a bit, because my welds arn't the greatest looking!

AE847852-819C-4F60-AF58-6D8BD43EA155-1367-00000116F20FBBD5.jpg

Cleaned up and bolted into the tunnel in position:

F9FA51E0-FB72-48AB-B61B-678CB4793ABF-1367-00000116FA4C17D9.jpg

Cable taped at Mid travel, box and lever set at mid point, and the first cable is installed:

ABDA8F37-15BA-49E7-A5DE-BED7BF2F45BC-1367-0000011701C45007.jpg

Onto the second cable stop,

Cut and clamped in place ready for welding:

CC2953A7-E5D1-4358-B684-2772EE8C587F-1367-000001170805931A.jpg

Tacked on before welding up further:

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I decided to gusset this one, as it's the fore / aft cable stop, and it sits a little higher, and will take more abuse

9BCE4E50-FEE8-4F09-B8A9-18149503C29D-1367-00000117157FB925.jpg

Welded up, and ground back again. Welds arn't the prettiest, but they work :)

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Got bored of playing cables and decided to test fit the battery. For now, to save on cabling and make life easier, I'm mounting it in the stock location. This purchase was brought forward after my old battery decided to die whilst up at R-tech and I've ben jump starting the car ever since.

Found it'll sit in the middle of the existing battery tray quite nicely, just needs something to secure it down:

0B2A3E92-AB4E-4658-8882-0532479ACD38-1367-0000011723688797.jpg

Time to paint some stuff.

All primed up:

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Then 3 coats of orange 8C6 base coat:

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Then finally 3 coats of laquer. pics don't show up well at all, but it seems like a pretty good finish. Will know for sure in the morning when it's all fully dry:

793EE2CC-678D-4F5B-9FC3-B3AE60701533-1367-000001173D9138EE.jpg

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Nothing exciting really, but I did my wheel alignment at work today.

We've had a £60k installation of a Hunter Hawk Eye Elite geometry kit. Took almost all of November to fit as they had to dig out the floor to fit the new ramp. So to treat myself for putting up with noisy builders for a few weeks I thought I'd see where the wheels are pointing on the Audi!

Seeing as I only have cheapo TA Technix, I couldn't enter the correct spec's for the suspension, so I had to confuse the computer by setting it up for standard suspension. It wanted me to get a measurement with the car raised using a special tool from VW, but seeing as we don't have that, I just bypassed the measurement and got on with it.

All I was aiming for was to get it to drive down the road in a straight line when I hold the steering wheels straight, as it was aiming to the right before!

This is before:

IMG00003_20121201_1556.jpg

Quite happy with the front camber! Waaay off what it should be standard, but they're pretty much perfect on each side!

The front toe is all over the place, way off to the left, which makes sense as the steering wheel sits to the right in a straight line.

So after getting my arms stuck many time (the track rod arms are at the top on my car!) and wrestling with the gaiter so it didn't twist up, I got it done:

IMG00004_20121201_1620.jpg

As good as I could be bothered to get it! It's waaay too sensitive. You could breath on it and it'd knock it into the red!

Well worth doing now, as it feels so much better to drive! I'm still prepared for poor tyre wear from the camber, but it won't be as bad now!

Very boring update, but it gives you some pictures to look at! :)

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Last sprint event of this series/season over. Can't believe the result:

1st place class 5 (above 2000cc, single axle drive)

1st place class RWD

3rd place overall (lost to an Evo and a STR)

3rd place class 5 2012

Going to sort out some vids soon, random pics:

sos-5.jpg

Is the white one your old shell Alex? Arches look similar!

Well done on the result :)

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It’s been a while since ive posted any pics,

Recently started playing cars again to get it ready for next year, saving for a house from January so I want it to be my little track toy to give me a break from the heavy saving.

Anyway , recently ive brought new rear toe arms and had the alignment redone, my other eBay arms had so much play in them it was dangerous and I never really trusted them , silly expensive mistake,

I’ve had my arches rolled and new wheels / semi slicks <3 255s on the rear 235s on the front

Brought myself a decat and had a very well fabricated exhaust custom made with nice mandrel bends,

Could do with some proper pics but these should do for now,

Cheers

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img2298b.jpg

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Here's a vid from Saturday at Oulton. Was freezing cold all day, and rain overnight meant the track was pretty dodgy early on! It dried throughout the day to end up with an almost fully dry line.

The vid is pretty long... The first bits are most entertaining I think, then maybe the last few minutes to show the contrast between morning and afternoon conditions!

0:05 - Bessell going sideways a lot

1:05 - Me going sideways a lot

1:54 - Me chasing Dave with Stan as passenger

6:05 - A lap on my own hunting down a Porsche

8:20 - Me driving with Adam in the passenger seat, following Stan

11:40 - Clear lap with a dry track (turns out my quickest at Oulton in that car)

14:00 - Me doing it wrong!

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My old steering wheel was shit. I hated it, and it really let the interior down.

18293_10151491857635130_1422322382_n.jpg

The guy who fitted my clutch with me the other day hero worships me, which is a bit weird. He's the friendliest person I've ever met and he's just generally a really nice bloke.

I just mentioned in passing the other day that I didn't like my plastic steering wheel, didn't think any more of it. I got a text from him about half 4 whilst I was dropping the oil out of my car asking if I was about because he had some "gifts" for me...At this point I thought I was going to be given some rouphies and wake up in a basement in Tavistock with a very sore bum! It sounded like a good night out so I told him to pop round.

He turned up with not one...but TWO genuine B5 and B6 Audi RS4 leather steering wheels complete with airbags, clock springs, harnesses and all bolts. What's weird about this is these steering wheels sell for £150-£250 a piece on eBay and the higher end of that estimate on forums and from breakers.

All because I linked him to a cheap dump valve on eBay that was listed as fault which if it worked would have saved him £90. Very strange.

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So here's the B6 wheel fitted :)

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So much nicer!

Also tested a DV I found for him on eBay, it was listed as faulty but I was pretty certain that due to the simplicity of DV's unless it was warped then we could fix it. He won it for less than a Chinese take away, so I stripped it down and all seemed fine. Gave it a bit of lubrication and fitted it, it's brilliant.

Baileys DV30 I think.

598443_10151525523915130_1805437085_n.jpg

I dropped the oil and did a lubrication service on the A3 after work today, as well as a rad flush and new G13. All in all a very productive day :)

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Looking good J-Rod :)

So, after 3 whole days of work, this shifter is FINALLY finished! But more on that in a minute.

I started this morning by doing the battery, so I could have a radio on whilst I worked today.

I forgot to get pics, because I'm rubbish, but basically, I took the battery tray out and drilled it, then made up a second bracket from the channel section alloy to go under the tray, and cut some thread bar to hold the battery down in the tray.

0619FE24-B7AD-45DE-A526-99E7AAE995FA-2953-000002852325FD8A.jpg

Sorted!

223613BE-9D07-4C43-B002-E94C6BA2552E-2554-00000245E4EECB35.jpg

I managed to use the original terminals, rotated through 90 degrees, with the tabs on the battery drilled out to 6mm instead of 5mm.

The OEM junction box that sits on top of the battery even fitted on really well with a little tweak:

9A61E57F-AB1A-4B06-9220-8CDB68AE2FFA-2554-00000245EB535BDB.jpg

Turned the key, and it fires the car up perfectly. Very happy with that, 12kg saved for just £40!

On to the shifter, I started today by bolting up the left - right cable that I'd finished yesterday:

AE428BE8-B4EA-41EA-9D4C-82C021CA4D0B-2554-00000246055A3636.jpg

Then I marked up and drilled the position for the fore / aft cable bracket and bolted it on:

D7AE9B4B-28A3-4D5A-9902-A4FC6221A771-2554-000002460CBD5988.jpg

A few adjustments, and I was finally able to see how it was going to feel changing gear:

882DDF70-BDEE-4F9F-A6C5-6A4DE57AB55C-2554-00000246158FAD2C.jpg

Massive hole from the old shifter needed sorting, so I got on with making up a plate to blank the hole:

98A9D89F-F864-47B7-9AFA-F576C000B91D-2554-000002462FAB6472.jpg

5CFBE435-9D3B-47DF-86B6-BC147FDDA3D1-2554-0000024634A90796.jpg

Then painted it black:

103D74DF-5245-4727-A70E-012C56F5EAAC-2953-00000281D0952673.jpg

So, that's the shifter finished. Along with other little jobs, it's taken me 3 days! I do work slow, but I'm in no huge hurry and I like to get things right, so I'm really happy with it.

A test drive has revealled that it feels AMAZING, so precise going into gears and really accurate feeling. The left/right gate is a LITTLE narrow compared to what I'm used to, but the self centering is really good and it snaps back to centre very nicely. I think I'll modify a box lever arm next weekend to increase the left /right gate slightly, but that's just a preference.

0A7D2E66-716C-40D0-996C-6B6013B3D415-2953-00000281D63F3F8F.jpg

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B9DF3E0D-9368-4BAA-AED7-6C6670E1B52F-2953-00000281E106E300.jpg

All in all a really good weekend working on the car :)

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Some general information about two of the most common recirculating dump valves on the market that I have written -

Haven't written a how to for a while, so here go's :)

Spotted a Baileys DV on ebay for a friend the other day which was listed as faulty, took a punt on it knowing it wouldn't be too hard to fix anything due to their simplicity. Annnywho.

I've got a Forge 007p with loads of springs, and the DV Phil has got is a Baileys DV30. A good time to do a comparison and service on the two.

Servicing a 007p -

It's a really simple design, you simply unscrew the top and you're in.

Here's a quick look around the DV before I started -

DSC_0512-1.jpg

DSC_0513-1.jpg

DSC_0514-1.jpg

DSC_0517-1.jpg

Unscrew the top, it's tight but you will be able to do it by hand.

So with the top unscrewed the spring will push the cap off like so -

DSC_0520-1.jpg

Pull the cap off and you have this -

DSC_0524.jpg

Remove the spring and you will just have the piston say within the valve -

DSC_0527.jpg

Then by pushing your finger in the bottom of the valve you will be able to push the piston out.

It looks like this -

DSC_0529.jpg

DSC_0530.jpg

As you can see mine is very worn; and it's leaky. That said it is 4 years old. It is typical to see wear marks in the areas shown on mine, but use common sense to work out if it is leaking or not.

If you look inside the valve you will see two O rings at the top of the valve, you can pull these out with your fingers -

DSC_0531.jpg

With the O rings removed you can clean the seats they sit in with a cloth and have a good clean out within the valve itself. When clean replace the O rings with new ones; these are in the Forge service kit along with a new piston -

DSC_0543.jpg

After you have refitted the O rings you can press the piston back in; make sure you grease the piston and O rings otherwise the valve will stick open. I've used lighter spray oils in the past and they dry out the seals and cause them to play up -

DSC_0545.jpg

You can then refit the spring, I'll touch on the different springs at the end. The springs just sit in the middle of the piston and compress against the cap of the valve -

DSC_0546.jpg

The top of the cap has a seat in which the spring sits, so it'll all compress up nicely -

DSC_0550.jpg

Twist the top cap up "tight" by hand and that's it! All serviced and ready to go.

A common problem on 007p's which is often over looked is the wear on the lower of the piston not being even with the valve casing. This causes the valve to leak; a great way around this is to get a valve grinding dowel and some valve lapping paste and gently reface the piston in the valve.

Other than that they're very easy to work on, and so simple that you can't really go wrong if you follow those steps.

I'll write up the Baileys dump valve now, and then I'll do the 007p springs and my own personal opinion of the two.

-

So, the Baileys DV30.

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View from the bottom of the valve -

DSC_0555.jpg

And from the entrance to the valve on the side -

DSC_0556.jpg

The DV 30 is quite a bit different to the previously mentioned Forge; both in it's appearance, design and complexity of the valve.

The top cap of the Baileys valve is quite a bit more important than on the 007p, and the method of securing it is also different. There are 6 allen bolts securing the top cap to the valve, which makes it a little more fiddly to undo. When you undo the allen bolts the top cap will be pushed off of the valve in the same way the Forge valve did -

DSC_0557.jpg

Due to the way that the Baileys valve works unforunatly I cannot show the step by step dismantling of the valve, however once you remove the top cap the spring and "piston" are loosely held within the valve.

The piston sits at the bottom of the valve loosely, and the spring sits on top -

DSC_0564-1.jpg

This is all the parts which make up the valve displayed together -

DSC_0562-1.jpg

The under side of the top cap is similar to the Forge, in that it is just a cap with a seat for the spring -

DSC_0567.jpg

The piston then pushes up against the spring and fits tightly within the cap; unlike the 007p which has a large body which a large piston moves up and down in the Baileys is sealed by the top cap rather than the body of the valve -

DSC_0568.jpg

DSC_0569.jpg

The base of the piston is a totally flat surface, which eliminates the common problem with Forge's have where the piston does not seal.

This shows the base of the valve body -

DSC_0563-1.jpg

The size of the "chamber" if you will is much smaller than on the 007p due to its design.

DSC_0571.jpg

Personally I think this is a big plus point and gets the thumbs up from me.

Because the Baileys valve is built differently there are actually no servicable parts on it, unlike with the 007p. All you would have to do is keep it lubricated and purchase the appropriate spring.

Also due to the design of the Baileys valve it is very tricky to get back together...Having to sandwich the piston and spring against the top cap and then feed the body of the valve on, I'm currently uploading a video of this annoying process at the moment. I'll edit when it's up.

I took the car out for a spin and tested his DV for him after re-assembling to make sure it was fit for his car. It sounds good and holds boost very well -

So luckily for Phil his DV which was listed on eBay as faulty is totally spot on!

As a comparison between the two; I actually prefer Phil's Baileys DV to my 007p. They both do exactly the same job, in exactly the same way. But the Baileys to me just feels better built and I prefer the design internally.

The only down side to the Baileys is that the lip around the inlet and outlet is very fat, so it is a right pain to fit!

DSC_0574.jpg

DSC_0575.jpg

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Took a half day at work today because it was ****ing dead.

Sorted out a load of shocking stuff inside my car, gave it a proper hoover, treated all the plastics, fixed my cubby hole door and a load of other little bits.

No pictures of fixing the cubby hole door, but basically the little lobe on the mechanism had snapped off so I heated up a pin with a lighter and softened the plastics, then forced the pin into the mechanism and snipped the end off the pin and re-attached the spring.

I cannot stand my ****ed climate panel and all the scratches from women being idiots and being unable to press switches without using their nails.

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I really need some nice new mats!

I also cleaned my engine bay, good old Duck Oil :) Sprayed it EVERYWHERE and then just wiped down the bits I could get to. Will smell nice when I start it up tomorrow :P

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I am going to spray the IC pipes and the inlet crackle black at the weekend; I've got enough for the inlet so I'll do that first.

The car is nearly at a point that I am happy with it cosmetically. Phil has got a set of leather Recaro's I might buy if he decides to sell them, and we're going to lower it a little bit on Sunday but otherwise that's it :)

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