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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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Can you hammer on the next size (down) of 6point socket, or is it all a bit of a mess? I'd be inclined to try some of those Irwin bolt extractors perhaps. The ones which look like this:

s-l300.png

They should at least get you a decent grip on things - if it still fails (ie. shears the head) then it might be time to rethink. Where are the bolts used/what's access like?

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Figured i'd do an update on my current project as I haven't barely updated it in here.

So the idea is to get a bog standard 1.8 140bhp toyota MR2 and fit the honda K20 engine.

9k revs, rearwheel drive and rear engines is gonna be a laugh right...

So I bought the car for a good price

 
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Then ordered the mounts from USA, ordered a diff whilst I was at it too

 

 
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I then got the engine and gear box
 
 
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And started cleaning it up

 

 
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Ordered a shed load of zinc plated bolts too
 
 
fitted the diff
 
 
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Bafffled sump fitted and bolts redone. Also did valve clearances and timing chain
 
 
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Did some more bits on the engine

 

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then bought an upgraded manifold
 


 
 
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then fitted it
 
 
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then the interesting bit...
 
So basically, I will be making my own exhaust manifold and exhaust for this project as I want to give it a shot myself.

I was going to be buying an exhaust modelling kit from America called icengineworks however its very expensive, it comes to £450 for the kit I'd need delivered including tax.
 
 
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The kit allows you to pre make the manifold to the correct length and do all your routes before f**king it up 30000 times if you didn't have the kit. The blocks click together like lego and you then, with the use of an additional plate, allows you to cut exactly where the mould was to mimic your exhaust in stainless.

I have my mandrel bends and flange ready
 
 
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The huge downside to the pre made kit is the fact that it comes in thr wrong centre line radius bends. It comes as 2 inch, 3, 5 and 6 which is not what is readily available in the UK (we get 1D and 1.5D bends very easy)
So even if I'd mocked it up the radius would be wrong anyway

So... What should I do? Print and build my own kit  bought the printer on Sunday and have made some good progress already. Its cheap as hell for the plastic so works out significantly cheaper and I get a 3d printer at the end of it all.
Ice already seen you can print off a 3d clutch alignment tool for the K20. Mint
 
 
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Few trial runs
 
 
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This means I can also print the larger models when I do the bigger exhaust bore.
 
C/P: Well chuffed with the machine and I'm enjoying the design and editing side of it so much

Last night I printed off inserts that go into the flange. The bit behind the flange is wider so it holds it against the engine securely whilst I mock it up.

I've ordered all the y pieces I need, I'll be making it a 4 2 1 design based on a model that gives good power for the type r's
 
 
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Overnight I printed the work piece that will hold the mandrel bend in whilst I cut it. I included captive nut holes and shaped it so m6 cap head bolts nicely sit in flush.

Grips it perfectly and will help to get nice clean and precise cuts on the horizontal band saw.
 
 
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t
The peen is finally in the garage.

I've started removing bits and bobs such as the rear bumper, lights, airbox, battery and some trim/bracing.
 
 
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I've also started welding some of the exhaust where I can, started on the V band to the 2.5 to 3" adapter. This is my first go at welding stainless and I gotta say i'm impressed with how it's turned out  Did not expect it to go so well to be honest

 
 
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I then wanted to make a purge block for the exhaust flange
 
 
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And these are the 15 degree bends I printed last night to have a go on the new saw.
 
 
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I then made an enclosure for the 3d printer so I can now print abs, badly done as I hate plastic but still it works wonders and the quality of parts are much better
 
 
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I then wanted to make my own merge collector on the exhaust
 
Used the 3d print to print off a fixture that holds the pipe at 12 angle for better flow
 
 
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I then pulled the engine out

 

 
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and got the new one in today. Things are going well.
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1 hour ago, Luke Rainbird said:

Can you hammer on the next size (down) of 6point socket, or is it all a bit of a mess? I'd be inclined to try some of those Irwin bolt extractors perhaps. The ones which look like this:

s-l300.png

They should at least get you a decent grip on things - if it still fails (ie. shears the head) then it might be time to rethink. Where are the bolts used/what's access like?

Some 10mm bolts that hold on a crossmember at the front of the car that needs to come out so I can remove the alternator. They are basically right under the front of the bonnet (guess that’s why they rusted) access is ok, a little tricky for one but should be good. Might try a cheap version of those Irwin ones. 

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Can you get a blowtorch in there Rowan? Getting the head (or what's left of it) of the bolt cherry red should help a lot (then let it cool down). I've also found a 50:50 mix of acetone and ATF to be even better than PlusGas: http://forums.sohc4.net/index.php?topic=20131.0


Dan - that is some seriously impressive work, on the collectors especially! Can't wait to see the rest of it. Love that 3D printing can aid with stuff like this. I would get involved but I'm too much of a luddite :lol:

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Stripped and inspected another K24 that I collected the other weekend. Head gasket failure was the reason for removal from the Accord it originated from but happily the deck of the block is still true/flat. Crank is immaculate also, a great base to build the replacement power plant for my old Civic Coupe. 

I nicked 99% of the running gear from it to get the Integra going, I’m hoping to have it back together in time for summer track days and the Nurburgring next year :) 

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Edited by SamKidney
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C408F66D-A180-4972-B003-874ADA2A436E.thumb.jpeg.eb328853557e8d096475c7976a86ba42.jpeg

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Interior mostly out. K24 mocked up with inlet/ancillaries and box to mount next week so I can work out which radiator I’ll need to use and how I’ll mount it. The Skunk2 inlet protrudes a fair bit further than the RBC I had used previously. The position this manifold leaves the throttle body in is exactly where the outlet for the top rad hose sits so an alternative is needed. 

Edited by SamKidney
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