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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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FINALLY managed to find the source of my mystery knocking when I take up drive. The timing side engine mount appears to have shifted in one way or another. When pressed on the noise presents itself, sounds just like a duff crank pulley... This problem presented itself after I'd replaced the gearbox so I'm assuming it's not enjoyed having the engine hanging from one mount. 

IMG_0798.thumb.JPG.a485414da31f98facb85a1ea2b7f1edd.JPG

 

Collecting another engine next week too, can't beat a freebie! Still need to fit my LSD and attend to my brakes. 

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Better ^_^

IMG_0802.thumb.JPG.a980dc817eadb5ccef5e9bd20d22061a.JPG

One of the bolts on the engine mount had worked loose... took the lot of and threadlocked all the bolts. Seems to have cured my issue :) 

Timing chain has lots of slack on inspection however, so I'll have to take it off the road and drop the engine to get that done :( 

Edited by SamKidney
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More brum brum noises from me.

Sprint event. Left the trailer at home, drove it down there, took no tools at all (not even any fuel or a tyre pressure gauge), won the class vs a 260bhp Westfield on soft tyres and a 270bhp Caterham on super posh sticky tyres, then drove it home again ready for commuting to work in the morning :)

Was SO good to feel so 'baggage free' and just enjoy it...

 

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2 hours ago, MadManMike said:

My car is still burning oil, unfortunately, as seen on the rear bumper in this photo...

18558735_10158643436610587_9366507959364

 

That's not oil, that's over rich fueling; black soot is fuel not oil. Have you reset the ecu since getting the lambda reconnected?

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I've been hoping to be able to squeeze bigger brakes under my 15" DC2 wheels and I think I've found the winning combination I need. 

Accord Type R 300x28mm discs 

EP3 Type R carrier and choice of pad 

MB6 VTi-s Calliper or Standard EJ9 calliper. Photo for reference... the callipers gonna be tight as in there. 

 

IMG_0823.thumb.PNG.79dda103fb0749b4cebbbd16ae172044.PNG

The accord discs only come in 5x114 but I've sourced a company who can do me grooved and dimpled items in 4x114. Failing that it's simple enough to redrill them to 4x114 myself. 

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I acquired a compressor with a duff motor last year and have only just had a chance to take a peek at it. After replacing the motor with a spare it pumps a treat but there is a important component missing... the pressure switch! I have whacked on a regulator and it all works fine but I daren't leave it on too long for fear of ending up in pieces.

I'm not sure how it has been used without one, and to be honest I'm not entirely sure how to plumb one in as I'm not sure where I can tsp into so I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. The make is C&H who haven't existed for about 30 years it seems however I'm fairly confident something can be retrofitted. I'm not 100% sure of my terminology and what I need so if people could correct me or advise as to what i should be fitting/replacing that would be great.

2017-05-25%2015.55.17_zps1kgo7dgi.jpg

At the back on the side is this which I'm assuming is a massive drain plug

2017-05-25%2015.55.39_zpsyij73vnt.jpg


At the back on the top, tank pressure gauge left, some sort of pressure valve (spring loaded inside) in the middle with a handle welded to it for a reason i'm not entirely sure of, and another pressure valve on the right

2017-05-25%2015.55.47_zpswzcanult.jpg

At the front on the bottom there is a drain tap that I don't understand how I'm supposed to operate

2017-05-25%2015.56.04_zpsqsmo42lf.jpg

And at the front side is another drain area with a tap, from what I have gathered this may have been for a certain type of air tool to connect to?

2017-05-25%2015.56.11_zpsuqtvhmpu.jpg

I have been looking at pressure switches online and I'm not sure what is suitable, there seems to be generic cheap ones that vary from £6 to £30 yet seem to be the same unit, I also think I should replace the pressure release valve/s for peace of mind but I'm not sure how many bar they should be rated at?

Any help would be great, it would be nice to get the old thing running safely

Edited by CurtisRider
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I have a pressure switch spare, was going to plumb it onto my little airbrush compressor but realistically I'm not going to get round to using it and my needs don't really justify it.

It was a spare that was ordered extra to a contract at work and iirc is adjustable from 5 to 150 psi or something like that that. Very expensive, in the region of 300 quid but it's yours for postage :)

It should be connected onto the a tank tapping and obviously wired onto the motor supply.

I'm presuming you didn't intend to link the same photo each time, we do quite a lot of compressor sets for sewage ejectors (although looking at 7.5+kw compressors and 6 foot high air recievers) so should be able to advise a bit more with sensible photos :P

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Looking at the updated photos...

The sprung valve with a handle looks to be some sort of adjustable safety, the valve behind it looks like a high pressure blow off valve.

Is it a piston or diaphragm compressor, obviously a piston variant will need lubrication so don't neglect that.

The massive drain plug is just a tank tapping, pressure switch could go in here if need be. Looks to be 1 1/4"ish so fairly small.

Drain tap at the bottom is a bog standard ball valve, suspect the handle had snapped off, easiest to replace the entire valve so you can drain condensates.

Air tool connection on the side looks to be some sort of quick release coupling, take it out and plug up or use as your main tank feed.

All of the fittings are almost certainly going to be bstp (British standard taper pipe) thread so will be off the shelf from any good engineering suppliers. If you want to check references or dimensions, look at the georg fischer website.


edit: these are the bits you need

http://www.gfps.com/appgate/ecat/common_flow/10002S/UK/en/109697/497242/index.html

Edited by forteh
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My car still runs like crap, despite:

1) Fixing vacuum leaks.

2) Replacing lambda sensor. (The old one was definitely dead, the wire was snapped in half!)

3) Tested new AFM.

So I've just ordered a coil pack and some nice shiny new ignition leads, as Googling the symptoms of those come up with the same issues as I'm having - crap idle, sometimes stalling, a bit hesitant when I accelerate, the occasional backfire / pop from overfuelling...

Fingers crossed this solves the problem :)

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On 5/23/2017 at 10:59 PM, SamKidney said:

I've been hoping to be able to squeeze bigger brakes under my 15" DC2 wheels and I think I've found the winning combination I need. 

Accord Type R 300x28mm discs 

EP3 Type R carrier and choice of pad 

MB6 VTi-s Calliper or Standard EJ9 calliper. Photo for reference... the callipers gonna be tight as in there. 

 

IMG_0823.thumb.PNG.79dda103fb0749b4cebbbd16ae172044.PNG

The accord discs only come in 5x114 but I've sourced a company who can do me grooved and dimpled items in 4x114. Failing that it's simple enough to redrill them to 4x114 myself. 

 

Are you just doing the front brakes or rear as well?

 

Small update on the M3. Finally seeing progress.

yUDOpRc.jpg

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fdR1uqE.jpg

UVhQE4c.jpg

 

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@Greetings

Yes, fronts only. My rear brakes are as large as I can go using OEM parts and for what the car needs will do the job just fine. I'm able to adjust the bias to suit. 

My current front brakes would probably do the job with some attention but while they need sorting I'd rather future proof them. 

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Don't these adjusters reduce rear bias rather than increase it? I remember looking for a setup that would increase rear brake power and it seemed all of them worked the other way.

 

Talking of brakes, having calipers sandblasted tomorrow and they need to be painted. Will 2pac acrylic primer cope with high temperatures? 

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5 hours ago, Greetings said:

Don't these adjusters reduce rear bias rather than increase it? I remember looking for a setup that would increase rear brake power and it seemed all of them worked the other way.

 

 

Yeah it'll reduce bias towards the rear. Honda rear disc brakes of old are reknowned for locking up with heavy use even when using oem bias. Trick is usually to do away with the oem proportioning valve and go for the adjustable item, and use cheap pads. 

 

Funnily enough the need for such a valve is that I'm not getting enough rear bias, as the vehicle has the wrong prop valve on for rear disc brakes (drums fitted originally) at present. Again, just future proofing/improving while the opportunity is there. 

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On 5/21/2017 at 7:44 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said:

More brum brum noises from me.

Sprint event. Left the trailer at home, drove it down there, took no tools at all (not even any fuel or a tyre pressure gauge), won the class vs a 260bhp Westfield on soft tyres and a 270bhp Caterham on super posh sticky tyres, then drove it home again ready for commuting to work in the morning :)

Was SO good to feel so 'baggage free' and just enjoy it...

I took this approach last time I did one of the bike track days there, pretty liberating. :)

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Spent half a year in a box, finally got it unpacked :P 

kZH7ybD.jpg

 

And yeah, it's light.

 

fpkhQ5T.jpg

 

Forgot about the brake calipers so had them sandblasted quickly. Painted with epoxy primer and a heat resistant paint. Now waiting for them to dry, need to remove the pistons and check for sand. 

 

0FRNbzu.jpg

 

ZcaOD4J.jpg

 

Ordered some HEL brake lines, hope they'll be alright. Never heard of that company, apparently UK based? 

 

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