SamKidney Posted May 20, 2017 Report Share Posted May 20, 2017 FINALLY managed to find the source of my mystery knocking when I take up drive. The timing side engine mount appears to have shifted in one way or another. When pressed on the noise presents itself, sounds just like a duff crank pulley... This problem presented itself after I'd replaced the gearbox so I'm assuming it's not enjoyed having the engine hanging from one mount. Collecting another engine next week too, can't beat a freebie! Still need to fit my LSD and attend to my brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 (edited) Better One of the bolts on the engine mount had worked loose... took the lot of and threadlocked all the bolts. Seems to have cured my issue Timing chain has lots of slack on inspection however, so I'll have to take it off the road and drop the engine to get that done Edited May 21, 2017 by SamKidney 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 Mate just came to rescue me and then his car broke down too hahaha! My car is still burning oil, unfortunately, as seen on the rear bumper in this photo... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 More brum brum noises from me. Sprint event. Left the trailer at home, drove it down there, took no tools at all (not even any fuel or a tyre pressure gauge), won the class vs a 260bhp Westfield on soft tyres and a 270bhp Caterham on super posh sticky tyres, then drove it home again ready for commuting to work in the morning Was SO good to feel so 'baggage free' and just enjoy it... 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 21, 2017 Report Share Posted May 21, 2017 2 hours ago, MadManMike said: My car is still burning oil, unfortunately, as seen on the rear bumper in this photo... That's not oil, that's over rich fueling; black soot is fuel not oil. Have you reset the ecu since getting the lambda reconnected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Looks pretty normal for an MX-5! They run rich at full beans - have seen 10:1 AFR before. Just spank it til it dies! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 22, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Yeah I've reset the ECU, no difference. The smoke is definitely blue, even if that's just soot on the bumper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Oil in the airbox/inlet tract? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luke Rainbird Posted May 22, 2017 Report Share Posted May 22, 2017 Running a catch can at all? Would help to reduce oil through the PCV if that's where it's coming through (I only skim read your post on FB about it, you might be looking elsewhere by now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted May 23, 2017 Report Share Posted May 23, 2017 I've been hoping to be able to squeeze bigger brakes under my 15" DC2 wheels and I think I've found the winning combination I need. Accord Type R 300x28mm discs EP3 Type R carrier and choice of pad MB6 VTi-s Calliper or Standard EJ9 calliper. Photo for reference... the callipers gonna be tight as in there. The accord discs only come in 5x114 but I've sourced a company who can do me grooved and dimpled items in 4x114. Failing that it's simple enough to redrill them to 4x114 myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Bagged myself a HANs compatable OMP lid for £50.00! Love a good bargain, saves me hiring a sweaty one every track day. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) I acquired a compressor with a duff motor last year and have only just had a chance to take a peek at it. After replacing the motor with a spare it pumps a treat but there is a important component missing... the pressure switch! I have whacked on a regulator and it all works fine but I daren't leave it on too long for fear of ending up in pieces. I'm not sure how it has been used without one, and to be honest I'm not entirely sure how to plumb one in as I'm not sure where I can tsp into so I was hoping you guys could point me in the right direction. The make is C&H who haven't existed for about 30 years it seems however I'm fairly confident something can be retrofitted. I'm not 100% sure of my terminology and what I need so if people could correct me or advise as to what i should be fitting/replacing that would be great. At the back on the side is this which I'm assuming is a massive drain plug At the back on the top, tank pressure gauge left, some sort of pressure valve (spring loaded inside) in the middle with a handle welded to it for a reason i'm not entirely sure of, and another pressure valve on the right At the front on the bottom there is a drain tap that I don't understand how I'm supposed to operate And at the front side is another drain area with a tap, from what I have gathered this may have been for a certain type of air tool to connect to? I have been looking at pressure switches online and I'm not sure what is suitable, there seems to be generic cheap ones that vary from £6 to £30 yet seem to be the same unit, I also think I should replace the pressure release valve/s for peace of mind but I'm not sure how many bar they should be rated at? Any help would be great, it would be nice to get the old thing running safely Edited May 25, 2017 by CurtisRider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 I have a pressure switch spare, was going to plumb it onto my little airbrush compressor but realistically I'm not going to get round to using it and my needs don't really justify it. It was a spare that was ordered extra to a contract at work and iirc is adjustable from 5 to 150 psi or something like that that. Very expensive, in the region of 300 quid but it's yours for postage It should be connected onto the a tank tapping and obviously wired onto the motor supply. I'm presuming you didn't intend to link the same photo each time, we do quite a lot of compressor sets for sewage ejectors (although looking at 7.5+kw compressors and 6 foot high air recievers) so should be able to advise a bit more with sensible photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CurtisRider Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 Not sure what happened there... I've got it right this time! Where do you reckon I could tap to? That would be amazing if you don't mind Ed! Ill PM you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted May 25, 2017 Report Share Posted May 25, 2017 (edited) Looking at the updated photos... The sprung valve with a handle looks to be some sort of adjustable safety, the valve behind it looks like a high pressure blow off valve. Is it a piston or diaphragm compressor, obviously a piston variant will need lubrication so don't neglect that. The massive drain plug is just a tank tapping, pressure switch could go in here if need be. Looks to be 1 1/4"ish so fairly small. Drain tap at the bottom is a bog standard ball valve, suspect the handle had snapped off, easiest to replace the entire valve so you can drain condensates. Air tool connection on the side looks to be some sort of quick release coupling, take it out and plug up or use as your main tank feed. All of the fittings are almost certainly going to be bstp (British standard taper pipe) thread so will be off the shelf from any good engineering suppliers. If you want to check references or dimensions, look at the georg fischer website. edit: these are the bits you need http://www.gfps.com/appgate/ecat/common_flow/10002S/UK/en/109697/497242/index.html Edited May 25, 2017 by forteh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MadManMike Posted May 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 My car still runs like crap, despite: 1) Fixing vacuum leaks. 2) Replacing lambda sensor. (The old one was definitely dead, the wire was snapped in half!) 3) Tested new AFM. So I've just ordered a coil pack and some nice shiny new ignition leads, as Googling the symptoms of those come up with the same issues as I'm having - crap idle, sometimes stalling, a bit hesitant when I accelerate, the occasional backfire / pop from overfuelling... Fingers crossed this solves the problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oak T Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 Just found this on while looking for ideas for some wheels! Opinions on is lifted RX8. Thought I'd share in case some of you like it hahaha! Oak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 I guess it had a ruined engine so was going cheap. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 26, 2017 Report Share Posted May 26, 2017 On 5/23/2017 at 10:59 PM, SamKidney said: I've been hoping to be able to squeeze bigger brakes under my 15" DC2 wheels and I think I've found the winning combination I need. Accord Type R 300x28mm discs EP3 Type R carrier and choice of pad MB6 VTi-s Calliper or Standard EJ9 calliper. Photo for reference... the callipers gonna be tight as in there. The accord discs only come in 5x114 but I've sourced a company who can do me grooved and dimpled items in 4x114. Failing that it's simple enough to redrill them to 4x114 myself. Are you just doing the front brakes or rear as well? Small update on the M3. Finally seeing progress. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted May 28, 2017 Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 @Greetings Yes, fronts only. My rear brakes are as large as I can go using OEM parts and for what the car needs will do the job just fine. I'm able to adjust the bias to suit. My current front brakes would probably do the job with some attention but while they need sorting I'd rather future proof them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 28, 2017 Report Share Posted May 28, 2017 Don't these adjusters reduce rear bias rather than increase it? I remember looking for a setup that would increase rear brake power and it seemed all of them worked the other way. Talking of brakes, having calipers sandblasted tomorrow and they need to be painted. Will 2pac acrylic primer cope with high temperatures? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 5 hours ago, Greetings said: Don't these adjusters reduce rear bias rather than increase it? I remember looking for a setup that would increase rear brake power and it seemed all of them worked the other way. Yeah it'll reduce bias towards the rear. Honda rear disc brakes of old are reknowned for locking up with heavy use even when using oem bias. Trick is usually to do away with the oem proportioning valve and go for the adjustable item, and use cheap pads. Funnily enough the need for such a valve is that I'm not getting enough rear bias, as the vehicle has the wrong prop valve on for rear disc brakes (drums fitted originally) at present. Again, just future proofing/improving while the opportunity is there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 On 5/21/2017 at 7:44 PM, Adam@TartyBikes said: More brum brum noises from me. Sprint event. Left the trailer at home, drove it down there, took no tools at all (not even any fuel or a tyre pressure gauge), won the class vs a 260bhp Westfield on soft tyres and a 270bhp Caterham on super posh sticky tyres, then drove it home again ready for commuting to work in the morning Was SO good to feel so 'baggage free' and just enjoy it... I took this approach last time I did one of the bike track days there, pretty liberating. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bike_dummie Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 On 2017-5-26 at 0:20 PM, MadManMike said: My car still runs like crap, despite: Faulty or incorrectly set tps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted May 29, 2017 Report Share Posted May 29, 2017 Spent half a year in a box, finally got it unpacked And yeah, it's light. Forgot about the brake calipers so had them sandblasted quickly. Painted with epoxy primer and a heat resistant paint. Now waiting for them to dry, need to remove the pistons and check for sand. Ordered some HEL brake lines, hope they'll be alright. Never heard of that company, apparently UK based? 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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