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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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This weekend is gonna be mega. Finally going to see everything come together! 
Collect the Coupe tomorrow night, picking up a rear bumper and smooth (no spoiler) boot lid en route from Castleford. 
Saturday I'm collecting a facelift bonnet, front bumper and headlights. 
Sunday will allow me to get all the panels on temporarily, and to get the engine in now that I have a clutch sorted. 

Once I'm back from Dublin I can wire it all up and fingers crossed, start it up. If all that goes well its only a clutch line, top radiator hose and a radiator to complete it. Then paint! 
And fit BGW.... any tips on making some kid of subtle yet mildly effective front splitter? 

If I can find my camera I'll get photos, Ive given up even trying with my phone now. 

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I think perhaps I caused some confusion. Yes, the Eunos was too low to get in to the garage. The Golf had the Eunos wheels in the boot and almost scraped, but didn't.

The entrance to the garage wasn't really my beef anyway, it was more to do with the "computer says no" attitude of the people in there.

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On 12/1/2016 at 8:02 AM, SamKidney said:

If I can find my camera I'll get photos, Ive given up even trying with my phone now. 

Please find camera, it doesn't get much less interesting than a loose description of parts you're collecting for a Honda project :lol:

Edited by Jolfa
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One picture.

I wont bore you all with every step photos because the quality really isnt worth wasting your eyesight on. 

K20 in its new home. Shift cables and shifter in, clutch in, B series outer CV joints on, shafts swapped side to side (change the inner CVs), Yellow Speeds on, Function 7 LCA's on, Hardrace rear camber arms on, Skunk2 front camber arms on, EK4 throttle cable, matrix hoses, bonnet, lights, bumper. 

Not much more now! 

K SWAP.jpg

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Took the crank pulley off the mx5 to track down the wobble. It looks like someone has been here before, though I can't tell exactly what they've used to bond/weld the gear to the crank.

I couldn't get a puller behind the gear to confirm that the 'fix' was still solid, so I just put it all back together. (the cracked backing on the gear wasn't me) I'm kinda hoping that the slight wobble is due to the gear not being perfectly straight. I'll just run it, it may have been like this for years. 

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6 hours ago, Pete.M said:

Took the crank pulley off the mx5 to track down the wobble. It looks like someone has been here before, though I can't tell exactly what they've used to bond/weld the gear to the crank.

I couldn't get a puller behind the gear to confirm that the 'fix' was still solid, so I just put it all back together. (the cracked backing on the gear wasn't me) I'm kinda hoping that the slight wobble is due to the gear not being perfectly straight. I'll just run it, it may have been like this for years. 

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I would say that the gunk is just dried loctite.  Easy to get the pulley off though, get a steel plate with two holes in to suit the diametrically opposite tapped holes, chuck a spacer into the pulley (a socket will do) and use a couple of set pins  in the threaded holes to draw the pulley off the shaft; as it comes off, add washers between the spacer and the plate to take up the slack.  If it were wobbling on a worn keyway / shaft / pulley I would expect it to be able to be pulled off by hand.

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It looks pretty solid - the pulley itself might wobble a bit as it's rubber mounted, that's fine.

The main thing to check is the keyway in the crank nose itself, as long as the key is tight into the slot and there's no evidence of flaring / cracking, it's fine.

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Another piss poor photo.. 

We're getting there. I got given a Tegiwa S2000 alloy radiator with the engine back in October so Ive been looking at how it could work out. 

I think I can make it happen. The upper outlet meets the OEM K series hose perfectly, but the lower one is on the wrong side. A cut B series lower hose would do the job perfectly, BUT I think I'll be taking it across to the fabricators tomorrow and asking them to re-weld the outlet on the correct side and allow me to use the OEM K series lower rad hose too. Ive aimed for this build to be as OEM as I can to retain its Honda reliability. Got a clutch line made up (barely visable) using the original clutch line flexi pipe. Flexi out of the brakcet, flipped round the opposite way so it aims towards the gearbox side, new pipe from clutch master cylinder to flexi, new pipe from flexi to slave cylinder. 

The induction set up is made up of an AEM coupling, a butchered B series AEM long arm (given to me for nothing with the car, and already cut), the OEM rubber intake pipe and an old filter I had from my B swap. Fits nicely, serves a purpose and cost f**k all!


IT MOVED UNDER ITS OWN POWER FOR THE FIRST TIME TONIGHT :D

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I own a Peugeot 306 that cost me $300 because the brake servo was leaking and the garage quoted $2000+ to fix it.

It was just the little boot on the pedal side was split, other than that it just needs some bulbs and maybe a rack end for MOT, once again total cost of repairs will be sub $100, love this town :lol:

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it looks almost identical to that, but it does have a badboy exhaust (that I kinda wanna put on the Audi :P )

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Did some work on the shitcelica today.

first job was to drill out the snapped arb mount bolt. Center punched it, then went through larger and larger drill bits. I center punched it slightly off, so when the drill hole got close to the threads, i tried to collapse the remains of the bolt.

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The first decent hit with a hammer tore all the tack welds off the nut. I ended up cutting the end of the mount off, which is big enough to get a 13mm nut in there.

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I decided to press the rear lower arm front bushes in. MK4 front caliper carriers were perfect shape as spacers!

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Things were going well, so i decided to look at why it's always been difficult to fill up the fuel tank. It felt like there was a blockage in the filler neck, so i took the rubber joining hose off from between the tank and the filler neck.

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That explains a lot! it looks like there was a plastic hose reducer/expander in the fuel line. (f**k knows how it got there!) Behind it is a plastic valve, which as far as i can tell it seems to work as an anti-siphon device and fuel baffle.

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Dropping off all the suspension bushes to @Alex Dark to get them machined down to work correctly, and picking up the new sub frame Friday.

Finally some decent progress :dance:

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A few guys came over to strip the car using dry ice. The result isn't perfect, the chap who's idea it was is now stuck with finishing the job using an angle grinder :P 

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Carbon-kevlar roof should be arriving very soon, can't wait :D I'll post some pictures when it arrives, some of you guys might be interested in their products. They make CF or kevlar reinforced carbon parts for a variety of cars, they're cheap and so far the quality has been amazing. 

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