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The Car Thread


MadManMike

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what would a bad throttle position sensor do? my car (523i) doesn't rev high on cold start, its ok when its warm but then randomly cuts out (chucks the eml & asl ight on) turn the ignition back & forth a few times and its back to normal again. ill be investigating in the next few days to obviously check the throttle position sensor plug hasn't came unloose or anything stupid like that, don't have access to a diagnostics until weekend at soonest but im suspecting iv got a faulty lambda aswell.

Edited by trials owns
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On cracking hub nuts - best one I ever did was with a standard 3/8 ratchet and 3 of us jumping up and down on it, f**k knows how that didn't just snap the ratchet :lol:

As you can imagine there's not enough space on a standard ratchet for 3 feet... :P

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So, all coilovers and adjustable top mounts are on after half an hour's work this morning. Now just the minor issue of 100% stuck track rod ends and ball joints which need to come off so I can remove the wishbones for new bushes. Left the dremel in Hampshire - fail!

Edit; Scratch that, managed to sort out the track rods. Just the world's most stubborn ball joints to go.

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So dropped car off at garage yesterday to have my dash brake fluid changed and dyno power run done. Nipped round by on my way home from work to see how they were getting on. Struggling a bit to get the fuelling calibrated which i thought they might have. So have been told they will need car till tomorrow still to get the power runs done and speedo calibrated on the dyno also. I am expecting a hefty bill tomorrow for the car which i was hoping would be kept down to a days labour. Just hope they can solve the fueling out.

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So suspension, droplinks, brakes etc all back on.

Brakes are in dire need of fresh paint, but shall address that once everything is running properly again.

20150822_201914_zpsufduckgj.jpg

Set the adjustable top mounts up as neutral as possible for now. Once I've got everything together properly I'll get it all aligned properly of course.

20150822_150051_zpstsh0ckln.jpg

I have new wishbone bushes to go on tomorrow, all being well, however the only bolt I've not been able to remove is one rear wishbone bolt. Typical! Not too sure how to go ahead from here as I don't have a dremel with me and there's next to no room above to get to the top nut, other than just enough space to squeeeeeze a small socket in to hold things while you try and undo the bolt from below (which is beginning to round and firmly seized).

Any suggestions as to how to get the b*****d out? Don't have access to a welder and if I grind off the head of the bolt it can't go upward for removal anyway.

20150822_181531_zpseqbwihii.jpg

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I have new wishbone bushes to go on tomorrow, all being well, however the only bolt I've not been able to remove is one rear wishbone bolt. Typical! Not too sure how to go ahead from here as I don't have a dremel with me and there's next to no room above to get to the top nut, other than just enough space to squeeeeeze a small socket in to hold things while you try and undo the bolt from below (which is beginning to round and firmly seized).

Any suggestions as to how to get the b*****d out? Don't have access to a welder and if I grind off the head of the bolt it can't go upward for removal anyway.

I've not known a bolt that a good soaking over a couple of days with plusgas won't shift; obviously you need to be soaking it from above, try getting some liquid plusgas and brushing it from above.

Are you using a 6 or 12 point socket on it? You can transmit a huge amount more torque through a 6 point but then you should know that.

Failing that I have a nut splitter that I can send down to you. You'll need about an inch clear space above the but to get it over but should be able to fit :)

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Very tight in terms of space above - an inch is probably about the limit though shall check again in the morning.

Have been hanging off it a little with a 6 point socket, having sprayed it semi-regularly over the past 72hrs with a cheap copy of Plusgas, from above as you say. Shall see if I can get my hands on the branded stuff tomorrow perhaps.

Shall keep trying I suppose - I suspect that the shank has corroded into the housing as well as the threads to the nut on the top end which would be making life extra tricky.

Would rather not have to cut through the wishbone and replace it if I can avoid that, want to be driving it again by the weekend!

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Have you twatted the head of the bolt with a lump hammer? Shock impact often breaks the rust free.

As said proper plusgas is excellent, I also have some molybdenum disulphide release agent that I've had good results with. I think we have a stock of it at work, if I cab find a bottle I'll send one your way, it's called 'a drop'll do'.

Edited by forteh
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If you're really struggling, just drop the subframe. There's 4x 21mm bolts holding it on to the chassis, and 4x 13mm bolts holding the steering rack on.

Will give you all the access you need then. Might even be enough to just drop one side with it on the car still, it would probably then give you enough room to get a spanner in to hold the bolt.

You REALLY need some breaker bars by the sounds of it! I broke several ratchets before I invested in some, now I've never looked back...makes a job so much easier having some leverage!

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