niall jones Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 how do people build a wheel and make it perfectly straight? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canardweb Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 http://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsbeginner Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Wheel building is really simple, you just follow a certain pattern. You can't really get a wheel 100% straight. But after building the wheel, using trialbeginner's guide, just go around every spoke and tighten it half a turn, and just repeat until you have a wheel with tight spokes. Hope this helps somewhat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Wheel building is really simple, you just follow a certain pattern. You can't really get a wheel 100% straight. But after building the wheel, using trialbeginner's guide, just go around every spoke and tighten it half a turn, and just repeat until you have a wheel with tight spokes. Hope this helps somewhat... Yes you can. Don't forget to stress the spokes too, the more you do it the less likely the spokes are to come loose. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Yes you can. Don't forget to stress the spokes too, the more you do it the less likely the spokes are to come loose. Always heard that you can't really get it 100% straight. Is it just to have a patience of steel? Yea forgot to add that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 depends what your idea of perfectly straight is. A lot of it comes down to the rim, if the rim is shit then it may be impossible to get it straight, if it's a good rim you can get it pretty dam straight. Not sure if patience is the ykey, I've managed to build a wheel in 15 mins that was within .02 of a millimetre straight and it's still going strong now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
williams Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 depends what your idea of perfectly straight is. A lot of it comes down to the rim, if the rim is shit then it may be impossible to get it straight, if it's a good rim you can get it pretty dam straight. Not sure if patience is the ykey, I've managed to build a wheel in 15 mins that was within .02 of a millimetre straight and it's still going strong now. When I said it, I meant PERFECTLY straight. Even all the bike shops around here says the same. But I/they might be wrong. Im pretty new to building wheels, but my closest build is around .03 mm with a shitty wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 for all intents and purposes, 0.02mm is perfectly 100% straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 I'm pretty sure nothing in the real world is 100% straight. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Don't cytech say 2mm either way is acceptable? Or is that machine built wheels? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niall jones Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 its an echo tr rear rim, just split mine so orderd new one just been needing a few pointers because ive never built a wheel before lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 A few days ago I took the trouble of lubing the threads and nipples and it made for a completely different experience. Much higher tensions possible, no need to stress the wheel all the time as is often the case with butted spokes. If you can be arsed it's really worth it although does take quite a lot longer to do the lacing. I think Sheldon's guide mentions lubing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 A few days ago I took the trouble of lubing the threads and nipples and it made for a completely different experience. Much higher tensions possible, no need to stress the wheel all the time as is often the case with butted spokes. If you can be arsed it's really worth it although does take quite a lot longer to do the lacing. I think Sheldon's guide mentions lubing too. Definitely well worth doing. I hate working on wheels that haven't been greased. I find just laying the spokes out on some tissue and spraying across the threads of them all at once with an aerosol grease takes the tediousness out of doing them all individually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Don't cytech say 2mm either way is acceptable? Or is that machine built wheels? Cytech can do one though to be fair - I think at most shops if you provided a customer with a wheel 2mm out of true they wouldn't be too happy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamKidney Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 (edited) My method is to get the spokes laced and each nipple turned to the same point the whole way around the wheel, just before they begin to take tension. Get the wheel in the frame, and set your mag so the slaves are clamped in the same place (symmetrical) with the pads just allowing the rim to pass through the pads. Like 1/ 2 mm either side of the rim. Go round the spokes, and tighten each by 1 full turn, using the valve hole as your reference point. Continue until the spokes are all tight. Its VITAL that you turn each nipple the same amount. Ive built 4 wheels using this method, all with TR rims and they were "perfect", with no visible side to side movement and no egged shape. Required almost no truing. Edited April 22, 2012 by Echo Lite 09 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Definitely well worth doing. I hate working on wheels that haven't been greased. I find just laying the spokes out on some tissue and spraying across the threads of them all at once with an aerosol grease takes the tediousness out of doing them all individually. I used normal grease, is a spray like WD40 good enough? Also would you say that the majority of the friction caused by lack of lubrication is from the thread or the nipple resting against the rim? Lubricating the contact surface of the rim and nipple is a messy job, would prefer to avoid it if it doesn't make too much of a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 I use olive oil, it lubes it, then it goes hard, lolz No really it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobinJI Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 I used normal grease, is a spray like WD40 good enough? Also would you say that the majority of the friction caused by lack of lubrication is from the thread or the nipple resting against the rim? Lubricating the contact surface of the rim and nipple is a messy job, would prefer to avoid it if it doesn't make too much of a difference. Definitely only need to do the threads. I'd probably not grease the nipples seat on the rim, or you'd be risking them coming loose prematurely. The spray grease I'm talking about is this sort of thing. It sprays out thinned down with solvents, then as the solvent evaporates off it thickens up into a proper grease rather than oil. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted April 22, 2012 Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 I lace up the wheel and while there is some thread showing on the spokes I drop a bit of chain oil on and it will be sucked into the threads. It's quick and you only get the oil where you want it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 When I built a wheel I simply poked the spoke in a bit of grease then laced it Just like Mark W's tutorial said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
niall jones Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 im being lazy and getting a friend to buld it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.