ghostrider88 Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Worked on my old bike for about 3years. About as reliable as I need really. Using short piece of gear cable works better(as those bolts weren´t designed for thip purpose obviously) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 It's not about how 'tight' it's wrapped, it's about how many teeth on the sprocket come into contact with your chain. If you get a photo up that'd make it pretty clear straight away... Yeah, I did say before that there's plenty of chain wrapped round the sprocket and that I can't put a pic up at the moment. Using short piece of gear cable works better(as those bolts weren´t designed for thip purpose obviously) Like I said, I've been doing it for years without any problems so it doesn't seem worth having a bit of cable + the adjuster is prone to getting knacked and messing things up. Used to happen loads when I rode with gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Better open it up then. It's not too hard, grab the sprocket and twist it in the freewheeling direction and pull firmly and it'll come out. See what's going on. Hope's warranties are meant to be great so if it's really bust, somehow, they'll sort you out. Maybe there's some swarf in there or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ogre Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 i doubt the 12t sprocket is an issue, i've been riding 16-12 on my pro2 for ages now and i do some huge statics and it's fine... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Duncy H Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thing is with a 24t on the front it induces less chain wrap due to the much greater difference in sprocket size. Where as a 16t up front will help more with chain wrap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 i doubt the 12t sprocket is an issue, i've been riding 16-12 on my pro2 for ages now and i do some huge statics and it's fine... 16:12? Sounds pretty light! If memory serves you're riding a Zoot, so you'll have horizontal dropouts - that'll change things quite a bit compared to having to run a vertical dropout frame with a tensioner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Maybe there's some swarf in there or something. Could be a possibility especially with it being an intermittent problem. Tempted to have a look inside but I don't want to jeopardise my warranty. Love how people are still speculating whether it might be a chain wrap/slip issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Could be a possibility especially with it being an intermittent problem. Tempted to have a look inside but I don't want to jeopardise my warranty. Love how people are still speculating whether it might be a chain wrap/slip issue. That's probably because you're not the first person to profess to know exactly what the problem is, yet still want opinions. When those opinions are given (because they're far more likely than a Hope hub giving up so early), you're quick to dismiss them without providing the pics that would prove you right. If I were you, I'd be hoping I was wrong and that I'd missed something really simple that some pretty damn experienced members of the forum are trying to point out. I'd be hoping that because it's a shit ton less hassle than a hub issue - whether time or money oriented. So, erm, hey! Maybe post a couple of pics?! As a side note, I don't think anyone has said it isn't a hub issue, just that it could be one of many other things that you should definitely be sure of first. Just putting this here so there isn't some massive backlash of "DUR I TOLD YOU SO" if it does turn out to be the unfortunate issue of a hub problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Revolver Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Open it anyway! Consumers can buy spares so presumably it's ok for consumers to replace them themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greetings Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 How precise are the pawl engagements? Do they engage roughly at the same moment? Hubs and freewheels have quite a big tolerance for this, so unless the engagements are really off or you're a very nervous rider, this shouldn't cause a problem. But it's a possibility. I think you should pull it apart and look for signs of the hub skipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Love how people are still speculating whether it might be a chain wrap/slip issue. Mainly because in about 95% of cases that's where the problem lies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 basicly if its just a noise but still bites and drives at the same time as the noise its more than likely to be the freehub. if its a noise and the drive goes all together leaving you with no bite/drive at all its more than likely to be the chain slipping over the cog. this guy says its intermitent, an intermitent slip is more commonly a tooth on the drive ring on the freewheel has been chipped. inside the hub there is a drive ring similar to this if the teeth are not all sharp and like new your hub will skip. and check the pawls too for any damage. if the hub has damage you will need to send it to where you bought it for possible warranty work (if you have the original recipt) if you dont have the recipt you will need to buy a new hub shell and rebuild your wheel. expencive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Either you've snapped a pawl / spring in there, or its your drivetrain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Here's the drive train pics for you all. As you can see, there's pleanty of chain wrap, good chain line, tension, etc.. There's no way it's the chain slipping + I'm only pulling away on flat ground when it's happening. Had the hub to bits this evening. Couldn't see anything in there that might cause a problem but there was grease in there so could still potentially be something hidden in there. Didn't have time to clean it all out tonight. I'll have to have another go at the weekend. Not looking forward to putting that plstic seal back in again. Was a right bitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Not sure if it's just me but that chainline looks way off, rear cog is seemingly too close to the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ali C Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 looks fine to me, as does the chain wrap, however it still only leaves 7 teeth in contact with the chain, it could well be the hub though, it's not unheard of for them to break, just very rar, especially when they are this young. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Not sure if it's just me but that chainline looks way off, rear cog is seemingly too close to the hub. Just you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azarathal Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Just you Well someone has to take on the role of forum retard I suppose 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD™ Posted April 10, 2012 Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Yep chain line looks all good, so it's gotta be in that hub or a bent tooth somewhere. Good luck getting it sorted out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Cheers for the replies guys. Guess I'm just gonna have to take it to bits again at the weekend, give it a proper clean and regrease/oil n see what I can find. I'm also running the same hub on my road/cross bike but with a bolt on fixed setup at the moment so I've also got the option of trying that freehub in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdamR28 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Chainline looks alright, I would say it's the chain skipping over the rear sprocket. There's about 6 teeth contact there, not much. Get a friend to video you/your rear mech while you are riding? If it's the sprocket/chain, it will be obvious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Borneo Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Chainline looks alright, I would say it's the chain skipping over the rear sprocket. There's about 6 teeth contact there, not much. Get a friend to video you/your rear mech while you are riding? If it's the sprocket/chain, it will be obvious. Are you serious?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostrider88 Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Are you serious?! What makes you think he isn´t? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark W Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 If you've got a larger sprocket you could always just try putting that on and seeing if it still happens. Obviously it won't be because it's definitely going to be the hub internals that you've said look fine, but it might be worth a punt just to try it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skoze Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 24:12 is a pretty big difference and there's no way a mech will ever get it really tight - got a fixed/ tight sprung tensioner you could use and possibly try upwards? Had the same issue with mine and that was only a 14T out back. Get the wheel off, open it up (seriously, so easy) check nothing's broken/ it's got nothing foreign in it, if it seems fine then look back at the way you're tensioning that set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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