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Disc Waterbleed


rcdk

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Firstly i know what ur all gonna say but in trials brakes are only ever used on or off so there would be no heat build up from prolonged braking to boil the water wich would in turn lead to air in the system

I am now experimenting with my shimano disc wich is minrel oil like maguras so in thery should work better like maggys do initial feel is improved and i have what seems to be a much more responsive lever i will let people know how it goes wether or not it fails or works a treat

All in all its just an experiment i have a few hydro discs around so y not

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Firstly i know what ur all gonna say but in trials brakes are only ever used on or off so there would be no heat build up from prolonged braking to boil the water wich would in turn lead to air in the system

I am now experimenting with my shimano disc wich is minrel oil like maguras so in thery should work better like maggys do initial feel is improved and i have what seems to be a much more responsive lever i will let people know how it goes wether or not it fails or works a treat

All in all its just an experiment i have a few hydro discs around so y not

Interested in this

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Firstly i know what ur all gonna say but in trials brakes are only ever used on or off so there would be no heat build up from prolonged braking to boil the water wich would in turn lead to air in the system

I am now experimenting with my shimano disc wich is minrel oil like maguras so in thery should work better like maggys do initial feel is improved and i have what seems to be a much more responsive lever i will let people know how it goes wether or not it fails or works a treat

All in all its just an experiment i have a few hydro discs around so y not

Yeah mate I tried it with my Echo trs (front and back) worked pretty well for a few months but then it really f**ked up the calipers :$

Edit: They were echos so they would probably have died with "blood" too

Edited by the mysterious leemur
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Been out today for.3 hours on me pallets and the brake feels awsom super smooth and really fast nothad any problems with leaking no power loss and a much sharper feeling brake only thing now is to test over time

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Yes its minrel and as far as going down hills its fine aslong as u brake sections ie on off on offf on off etc not like we pick up much speed anyway lol been using it everyday scince the bleed also been over my local woods wich is quite front brake intensive ( they hold diffrent motorcycle trial events there) rode a few of the sections and yet to have any problems i may see if re bleeding it with cooking oil will give the same feel as water but have better lubrication and heat dissipation dunno but its worh a bash lol

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I'm generally a firm believer in using whatever fluid the brake is designed for and i think "good lever feel" is well overrated but I think it's cool you're trying different stuff and sharing any successes or failures with people on here. I reckon if I was doing it I'd have a go with antifreeze. I know some people already use it in maggies. Bonus for a disc brake is it has a higher boiling point than water.

Edited by Chris Borneo
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I'm generally a firm believer in using whatever fluid the brake is designed for and i think "good lever feel" is well overrated but I think it's cool you're trying different stuff and sharing any successes or failures with people on here. I reckon if I was doing it I'd have a go with antifreeze. I know some people already use it in maggies. Bonus for a disc brake is it has a higher boiling point than water.

Antifreeze would be a good shout, also it contains corrosion inhibitors which would help prevent any issues with the bare aluminium and steel inside the brake.

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Using water is about the most pointless act ever, if ur brake normally requires mineral oil, go get some cooking oil, or crisp n' dry or the likes, just as good, but u won't have heat, or freezing issues. Its,about 99p for a litre, cheap as.

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Using water is about the most pointless act ever, if ur brake normally requires mineral oil, go get some cooking oil, or crisp n' dry or the likes, just as good, but u won't have heat, or freezing issues. Its,about 99p for a litre, cheap as.

Cooking oil is much thicker than mineral oil.

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As i stated at the start of this topic i am just experimenting with diffrent fluids to.see how the brake feel changes and i thought i could share my findings with people aand yes anti freeze is.great and maintains the same feel as water becouse of the low viscosity and yes cooking oil is thicker than blood and causes a slower lever ferl but im looking for somthing where i can have a fast and responsive lever feel with no squish that u get with most hydro brakes my next one is to go braided hose to see how much diffrence thwt makes

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It will work fine aslong as its a mineral brake if it's ment to take dot fluid the seals will swell up after a couple of weeks

isn't dot fluid hydrophobic? dot certainly enjoys absorbing water, as a result of this the seals would have to be resitant to water contamination.

my avid code is water bled on an 04 maggie lever, had no problems with that so far and itss been that way for a month and a half.

also the boiling point of water is different under presssure, (with a closed system) this would be much higher than it. would boil in your kettle ( the boiling point of water in a car engine is 114c ish if I remember right, and when you undo the cap on the expansion tank you get explosive boiling due to a drop in pressure), I still wouldn't use a water bleed a disc for anything other than trials.

to avoid boiling you could use distilled water as it doesn't boil it gets super heated, assuming there are no contaminents in your brake.

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isn't dot fluid hydrophobic? dot certainly enjoys absorbing water, as a result of this the seals would have to be resitant to water contamination.

my avid code is water bled on an 04 maggie lever, had no problems with that so far and itss been that way for a month and a half.

also the boiling point of water is different under presssure, (with a closed system) this would be much higher than it. would boil in your kettle ( the boiling point of water in a car engine is 114c ish if I remember right, and when you undo the cap on the expansion tank you get explosive boiling due to a drop in pressure), I still wouldn't use a water bleed a disc for anything other than trials.

to avoid boiling you could use distilled water as it doesn't boil it gets super heated, assuming there are no contaminents in your brake.

DOT is hydrophillic.

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Gonna try runnun a 05 maggy lever to.see if there is a mechanical advantage depending on piston ratios would a smaller master increase or lower the pressure at the slaves and vice verser for.a larger master

You don´t have to try as it´s very easy question to answer,basic physics really.

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Gonna try runnun a 05 maggy lever to.see if there is a mechanical advantage depending on piston ratios would a smaller master increase or lower the pressure at the slaves and vice verser for.a larger master

you're kidding right?

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you're kidding right?

There is some crazy experiments out there.. Bike shop i work at some kid brought his bike in and had a hope lever with a shimano deore calliper... WTF? The brake worked but i dread to ask what fluid it was running on as both shimano and hope run on different fluids.

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There is some crazy experiments out there.. Bike shop i work at some kid brought his bike in and had a hope lever with a shimano deore calliper... WTF? The brake worked but i dread to ask what fluid it was running on as both shimano and hope run on different fluids.

You can use mineral oil in any brake you want,it´s the dot oil what is not for every brake.

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