forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 I've got a 185 hope mini (original 2 piece calliper) on the front of my chameleon, its been honking under heavy load of late and its a bit annoying. I've swapped the pads with the rear mini (which doesn't honk, just the normal mild squeal) and it made no difference; cleaned the rotor with surgical spirit and burnt the pads off and still honking. Its not the sound of a contaminated disk, more of a resonant vibration. Its also lacking a bit of power although this might be because I haven't been giving it any beans (due to the noise) and the pads may have glazed slightly. The pads are old, about 8 years and in the past have been contaminated so I know they will never be 100% perfect but the noise is annoying. I noticed this morning that the front disk is mounted in reverse to the rear, the spokes are leading into the calliper whereas the rear are trailing into it, I've always been told to have them trailing in the past (no idea why I put the front leading though ) I will swap the disk round to match the rear to see if it helps, in the mean time can anyone offer any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Sounds to me like they're contaminated, i've only ever heard of brakes squeeling/honking from contamination, have you checked the caliper for leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Sounds to me like they're contaminated, i've only ever heard of brakes squeeling/honking from contamination, have you checked the caliper for leaks? Its not leaking and it isn't a contaminated pad honk, you can feel the vibrations buzzing through the bars as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndrewEH1 Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Are you sure that the caliper is set up correctly? You might need to remove/add a spacer so that the disc passes through the middle of the pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Are you sure that the caliper is set up correctly? You might need to remove/add a spacer so that the disc passes through the middle of the pads. Its as central as I can get it, rotor spins free and doesn't drag at all. Could be the pads are just beyond saving/use I guess, but when switching them over to the back they work fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurence--Trials Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 How much material is there on the pads? you could have reached the metal? Just a guess.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 How much material is there on the pads? you could have reached the metal? Just a guess.. Shed loads of material left so that rules that out. Another possibility is that the calliper mount on the forks is a bolt on, marzocchi decided to have a separate bolt on adaptor on the 2001 z3qr20 forks for some reason; its still tight though and this issue is only recent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N.Wood Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Its not a loose/somehow ill fitting rotor, or a loose headset, or the wavy edge of the rotor causing a vibration or something? Or even hub bearings or summat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 sounds glazed to me. u need to rub the rotor and pads with sandpaper. give the rotor a real good rub down and vlean too. maybe need new pads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Pretty sure the rotor is tight and the screws are thread locked so shouldn't be loose, I'm going to try reversing the rotor tonight and see if that helps, Ill also deglaze the pads and rotor while I'm at it Hopefully it will start working a bit better as well once I've bedded it in again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 what do you mean by trailing and leading? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 what do you mean by trailing and leading? The spokes on the rotor are in a spiral pattern, one way leads into the calliper, the other trails into the calliper if that makes sense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 Just buy a set of gold superstar disc pads. They're like £6-7. Clean the rotor with washing up liquid and hot water then fit the new pads and have a smile. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dezmtber Posted March 2, 2012 Report Share Posted March 2, 2012 the superstar gold pads are semi metalic pads. a quick break down of brake pad material pros n cons: semi metalic pros: great ware rate. (due to its harder compund) better heat handling as the metalic compound takes heat into the caliper and produces less friction. cons: less braking power only works well under high tempratures (they often glaze over at low temps) organic pros: soft compound gives good brake performance will still cut a the pad surface at low temperatures (will not glaze easily) cons: poor ware rate poor heat handling basicly trials is best with organic pads. dh or xc is best using semi metalic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TROYston Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 My XC's bike's disks used to honk like mad, but only ever in cold mornings. which i found strange. I felt it go through the whole bike and sounded like a less annoying HS33 squeal. Changed disk to Rockman ones and it stopped. Moral of my story. Try changing rotors, might help? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 The spokes on the rotor are in a spiral pattern, one way leads into the calliper, the other trails into the calliper if that makes sense ah, mine always lead into the caliper, but mine sometimes honk, lolz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisboats Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 the superstar gold pads are semi metalic pads. a quick break down of brake pad material pros n cons: ...stuff I know, that's why i recommended the golds, given that i know mr Forteh isn't an idiot I figured he'd see the reasons why the golds would be a good choice on his non-trials bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucky Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 have you tried setting the caliper 'off square' so its not hitting perfectly straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forteh Posted March 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 I know, that's why i recommended the golds, given that i know mr Forteh isn't an idiot I figured he'd see the reasons why the golds would be a good choice on his non-trials bike. That's yet to be proved If I do plump for fresh pads Ill look into them on your recommendation. I've not had a chance to swap the rotor over yet due to drunken weekend away but I did give it a couple of very harsh stops and it seems to have stopped some of the noise, perhaps got some of the glaze off have you tried setting the caliper 'off square' so its not hitting perfectly straight? Wouldn't that make it feel mushy as hell though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Vandart Posted March 8, 2012 Report Share Posted March 8, 2012 yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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