cunny12345 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Hi there, got my mum to buy me a crank extractor whilst she was out shopping, ends up she comes back with what looks like a square taper one, which now when you tighten it up nothing happens, i have heard people suggest using 1p's tried that but they just bend, what i want to ask is that does anybody know where i can get that little plug from that goes on the end of crank extractor, cheers Matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbarr Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Something like this perhaps? link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunny12345 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) Yes! that is exactly what i need, do you think a 9/10 mm socket will work for the time being? or would that f**k it up? as i have heard some people use things like that and it f**cks up there crank threads. Matt. Edited February 18, 2012 by cunny12345 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbarr Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Not too sure about the socket, but isis cranks generally come off a fair bit easier than square taper ones. Take your bolts off and ride about for a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunny12345 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 hmm okaay then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan6061 Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Use 2 1ps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunny12345 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 Use 2 1ps. tried that, they just bend, then i have to use selotape to get them back out haha do you recon a bolt would work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bing Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 tried that, they just bend, then i have to use selotape to get them back out haha do you recon a bolt would work? use an M8 coach bolt. little square bit fits in thread hole without damaging it, and the head sticks out enough to use the extractor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cunny12345 Posted February 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 use an M8 coach bolt. little square bit fits in thread hole without damaging it, and the head sticks out enough to use the extractor. wicked, yeah just asked dad, he's gonna get one from work for me! (: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Little Yoshi Posted February 18, 2012 Report Share Posted February 18, 2012 I just have a length of metal rod that I stick in and does the job well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hulud Posted February 20, 2012 Report Share Posted February 20, 2012 you can also use the bolt from a derailleur, the one which bolts to the hanger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnnBee Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Mate 5 ps are stronger than 1ps. I ain't having you on or anything. A few months ago I lost the insert for my extractor. Trust me five ps are what you need. If it still bends try putting two in. Let me know how you get on. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Not too sure about the socket, but isis cranks generally come off a fair bit easier than square taper ones. Take your bolts off and ride about for a bit. Absolutely awful advice, never ever EVER do this. ISIS cranks are tapered as well, and doing this will knacker the tapers. I've seen cranks never fit properly again due to this method being used. Best thing I found to use was to get an M12 bolts (I think M12 anyway), and cut the head down. Just drop that into the crank arm so that it sits on the BB axle but not the crank arm splines, and stick the tool on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidbarr Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 (edited) Absolutely awful advice, never ever EVER do this. ISIS cranks are tapered as well, and doing this will knacker the tapers. I've seen cranks never fit properly again due to this method being used. Best thing I found to use was to get an M12 bolts (I think M12 anyway), and cut the head down. Just drop that into the crank arm so that it sits on the BB axle but not the crank arm splines, and stick the tool on there. Oops. Saw the method I suggested in a few other threads, didn't really think about it. Thanks for letting me know though, otherwise probably would have wrecked my cranks. Sorry for any confusion. Edited February 21, 2012 by davidbarr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muel Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Fair doos. I've seen it said so many times, but basically in my experience, if a crank comes loose once, it's never the same. One lad I knew was having major chain tension problems, in that it would be super tight at one point and super slack and another, I said I'd have a look, removed the crank arm and the tapers were a right mess. No wonder the crank arm didn't center on the BB properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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