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Tubless Mod, I Am Testing A Little Idea I Had :d


dezmtber

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i am going to use schwalbe 14" tubes (due to having screw thread on the valve)

stans sealant.

and double rim tape just to be careful and to build up the rim to seat the tyre better.

i am getting to it tmz. i keep every one posted on how well it fits and what it withstands after fitting

fitting to an onza master 20" trial bike

421351_10150554188264103_670734102_8926561_346819640_n.jpg

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i am going to find out tommora mate. out on the bike i ahve left it over 24 hours to dry n stick properly. i may even try running sily low presures i already run 15psi in the rear and 20psi in the front. i will go out and try to fold the tyre on perpose. if it works i will post pics of the work for u guys to give it a try. i amgoing to call it ghetto tubularless :D

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I did something similar but used liquid latex as the sealer and used it to "glue" the excess tube to the tyre. worked really well, tested it on a light weight tyre and tried to get a puncture but ended up just denting the rim.

Never got it to work again though. :(

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No or the tyre would just fall off the rim. You must run high pressures to keep everything pushing outwards?

thats why i am glueing the tube to the tyre, so they are as one and keep it all on the rim.

so far the rear using rim cement has worked. and the front using rubber cement has failed, but still holds presure.

i am considering glueing and stitching the tube to the tyre to get it prperly secured

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basicly if i can get it to work right, you will only change the tyre when the tread is worn out.

punctures will be sealed using stans and i can always top it up through the valve when enver i like.

pros: lighter and i can use tryall sl 2.5 and schwalbe Mow Joe 20x2.0 Folding tyres loosing around 450g

no pinch punctures

no thorn or small glass punctures

should be able to run lower presures

lower rolling resistance due to thiner overall rubber

cons: cant change my tyres without a hell of a mess

it is possible only in extremes to pinch the tyre sidewalls,( which would have resulted in tube puncture )

the lighter front tyre is not tacky trials compund. (bmx racing tyre)

fiddly job when replacing new tyres it can take a few days for the glue to seal correctly (normal tubeless is instant)

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basicly if i can get it to work right, you will only change the tyre when the tread is worn out.

punctures will be sealed using stans and i can always top it up through the valve when enver i like.

pros: lighter and i can use tryall sl 2.5 and schwalbe Mow Joe 20x2.0 Folding tyres loosing around 450g

no pinch punctures

no thorn or small glass punctures

should be able to run lower presures

lower rolling resistance due to thiner overall rubber

cons: cant change my tyres without a hell of a mess

it is possible only in extremes to pinch the tyre sidewalls,( which would have resulted in tube puncture )

the lighter front tyre is not tacky trials compund. (bmx racing tyre)

fiddly job when replacing new tyres it can take a few days for the glue to seal correctly (normal tubeless is instant)

Really? i thought with tubeless, you've still got to use half an inner tube for the valve and to seal the nipples, with that and the weight of glue, sealer, ect, would overcome the weight of a normal inner tube?

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You could use a much thinner tube than that required to stand up to the abuse this setup could potentially take using a conventional tube/ tyre setup.

And the sealant shouldnt affect the feel really, the weights minimal and the tyre moves independently of the liquid anyway. Its not like its adding weight in one area of the tyre. The liquid will always be at the lowest point.

If done right, It will be lighter.

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i have tried tubeless on my previous bike.

Normal XC rim front, and a Schwalbe Furious Fred tyre. Trialtech SL and a Continental MountainKing Supersonic 2.4 rear tyre. A Scwalbe presta valve and the stans kit.

Cut the Scwalbe valve off the tube. had approxx 10mm of tube left just around the valve. Found a nut that fitted, and a washer, then tightned it until the rubber that was left on the valve started to pull troug. Just to absolutely get a tight seal there.

For the front wheel i used 70ml of liquid at first, filled the tyre to 60psi while rotating so that the liquid could seal everywhere. I then tapped out al the accsess liquid out. (Not a good idea, as this makes it alot more vulnerable) Rode with this setup for quite some time, until i rode natty one day and got a rift in the tyre.

With the rear wheel i used somthing like 100ml. The same type of valve as for the front wheel. Used some wide GOOD electric tape as rimtape. Taped two rounds with the glue down, to be sure that it would seal.

Tried it maybe 15 mins, the tyre was too light to be used for trials in the first place, and without a tube supporting, it felt horrible. The tyre got almost instant a big rift and the sealant could not seal it.

i think i'm going to try it again, but with decent tyres..Because these two i tried with, they weighed less than a rear tryall 20" tyre togheter.

i do not think a normal rimtape would seal at all. Any normal tape thats wide enough to cover the holes in your rim could be fine. I chose the electric tape because its easy to tape without getting folds and wrinkles that air could escape trough..

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